hi to all,i'm new to this forum and i like to do things by myself on my cars whenever possible due to the rip offs of the mechanics,(if you know what i mean) i have a outie 2003 with 100k, but several miles ago,i found that the passenger seat floor was soak,i mean soak wet!! omg! like it was flood it! unplugged the drains in the bottom of the car to drain it and wait until it got dry,researching and researching i found out that there was a recall for this, ( corrosion on the wiring harness due to water leaking tru the upper dash area or side seals) and when i went to the dealer and contact mitsu north america said that my car was not included in the recall,cause the cars affected are the ones manufactured before 4/11/2003 and my car was manufactured 4/15/2003!!! can you believe!! my car is exactly doing what the recall says and for 4 days my car is not included,i bet you that most cars affected for this were manufactured on the same date as mine,so mitsu is pulling a fast one here,ugh! i'm always being happy with mitsus,my fam had 3,but this men.... ugh! anyone have had this problem?

I changed the end-links on my front sway bar it helped but I was still getting that clunk-clunk noise whenever I would go over the slightess little bump so today I decided to change the front saddle bushings(OEM Part # MN100250) on the swaybar. Only one bolt (front driver side) was hard to get at because of a power streering hose that runs just above the head forcing me to use a box wrench instead of a ratchet. My Outlander now rides like a new one and it only cost me 20$ and one hour. Finally I can bring the radio volume control down a knotch......
Went for a long ride today it was so pleasant not earing that klunk klunk. Believe me it is worth it.....

Hello everyone i am new to the group and have some questions about my 2003 Outlander.

A little about my car its a 2003 with 126,000 miles and still going strong. I am the only owner had it since new.

Questions,

1. I was told that i had a bad tie rod end by the tire shop (is this common) he showed me slack while it was jacked up. And what i have found was inner tie rods cost about 100 a piece or i can buy a remaned rack with inner tie rods for around 300. What do you think. The car does drive a little sloppy ie drifts side to side allot. I also know i have bad struts too.

2. I had to replace the engine block after an accident because the center carrier bearing mount broke off the engine. while i had the head and intake out i had a threeway valve job and had the intake polished. when done i put an aftermarket air intake from an eclipse 4g64. I was wondering if anyone knows if an aftermarket exhaust manifold for the eclipse 4g64 will fit the outlander 4g64.

3. What other performance mods can be done to this engine.

I am very mechanicly inclined just not when it comes to suspension so if anyone could tell me what needs to be replaced on the front and back to make this thing solid again i would appreciate it. Also if you have part numbers and manufacturer i would appreciate it also.

Thanks,
J

Hello everyone. I'm driving airtrek turbo, and I noticed that when it isn't warmed up completely, it accelerates really fast, but after some time in the traffic when it warms up, the acceleration becomes much less intense:(
could someone advise me what might be the reason?
thank you:)

2005 outlander.

It has a trailer hitch (not sure if this is important).

Both the front headlight and tail light are out. I replaced both last night. Still no lights.

Suggestions?

Thanks

I have just done this job at home, so for anyone thinking of doing it yourself here is what I found.
There is no drainplug and Mitsubishi don't specify a gasket and told me to use gasket cement so I decided to suck the stuff out. This I did with a cheap suction gun from Screwfix for £7.
The owners manual says the transmission holds 8 litres so I purchaced 7 litres of Amsoil synthetic ATF fluid (Diamond 111 spec) from Opie oils UK for £105 posted thinking I would never get the whole 8 litres out. No matter how I tried I could not get more than 5 litres out and I could not see any more left when I shone a torch in, not even by jacking it up or selecting different gears.
So if you do the job yourself there is only any need to buy the 5litre size which is £65. Still a huge saving over the £200+ which the Mitsubish main stealer wanted.

Could anyone tell me where the cabin filter is on the UK Outlander 05 with 4g69 engine. Cheers.

Just about to change the axel oil, will I break it?
Managed the tappets anyway. First time since I had a Cortina.

Hey all,

I've been reading up on replacing the timing belt on my wife's 03' Eclipse, 4 cyl., in this forum. So the last few days all I have been doing is reading up on 3Gs. Are there any gaskets between the covers and the engine? Nothing is mentioned about gaskets in the manual. How much room is there actually in the engine compartment to get to the timing belt/water pump/ etc? I've replaced the timing chain and my water pump on my V6 Dakota, but this process sounds nothing like my truck what so ever. Sorry for all the questions. I've never worked on a mitsu. so this is a little intimidating to me. How much time should I expect to set aside to replace the timing belt and the water pump? Should I replace the timing belt B as well at the same time, and is this any more difficult? Thanks in advance, and any ideas help are always welcome.

Jordan

Anyone have a pinout of the ETACS Unit? Specifically pin 25, I've looked in the workshop manual and cannot find anything referring to pin 25 in the schematics. Anyone know what this connects to?

Anyone know where I can find the parts manual for a 2006?

Ok, I have an 05 outlander that 2 weeks ago I changed the timing belt on.

We have now got an oil leak from that section of the motor. I can't tell if it is the oil pan/gasket or the oil pump.

I know how easy it is to change the oil pan or gasket but what about the oil pump?

Should I dry her off and trade it in or is it something easy I can do with the car up on the ramps?

Got the oxygen sensor done last night. I purchased the Bosch universal one for $60 at Rockauto.com, the direct fit one is listed for $230! THis was the rear after cat sensor. So far the CEL is still off.
I was a little aprehensive about using a "universal" sensor but after this install I would deffienitly use it again. The instructions and wiring splice chart was correct and easy. You basically splice the factory connector on to the new sensor so it plugs into the harness correctly.
Now the real question? How can the sell a universal for $60 and the direct fit one be $230? do you think the factory plug is worth that much? (sarcasim intended)

Ok, looking for additional keys for the outy, 2006 model, where can I get keys done and are they easily programed? Can I just order keys off e-bay and have them cut? Do I need to go to a dealer to have them programed?

The tickover is lower than it should be on both fuels, hot and cold on my Outlander causing stalling sometimes when pulling off uphill. At the LPG service the Gastech guy said the Lamba after the cat was showing problems suggesting the valves need adjusting .
Does anyone know if the "factory"LPG Outlander suffers valve recession, mine is a BRC conversion done by Gastech 2 years and 30k ago and has been great untill this low tickover started a month ago. It runs fine apart from that.
Don't know if to get Gastech, Mitsubish to do the tappets or if to have a go myself as I have adjusted a Cortina and Renault tappets.

Does anybody have a sport mode transmission wiring diagram, my "D" led light appears on the dash but the gear indicator doesn't.

Guys,

I have a 2003 Outlander (~70k miles/112 km). The car looks great, everything is fine. The 'only thing' is that the transmission in SPORTS MODE doesn't work anymore. It is hardly used and I don't know why is not working...nothing is shown on the driver panel. The automatic transmission works perfectly. I wonder if the problem is electronic-related, otherwise, the whole transmission (automatic/semi-automatic-SPORTs MODE) would be dead...that's my guess...

So, I need to repair...and I need to find a mechanics for that (at the moment, here, I don't know anyone that I can trust). Well, have anyone experienced such problem before, would guess what would be the cause and what should be done (and estimate the costs). Just to have an idea when I see the technician...

thanks,
Alex

I have a mitsubishi outlander for spare parts. on request, any part can be shipped.
interior leather , etc etc .
info's about PM

If you own a 2003 - 2005 outlander, I bet your headlight are starting to haze over. Mine were (plus some cracks). While I was at Wal-Mart today, I found this package that promised to make them look new. The cost was $19.95. I thought it was worth a try because new headlights cost somewhere between $300 - $500 each.

I tried it and was pleasantly surprised at the results. Granted, it could not fix the cracks in the plastic.

Here are the before and after pics and the product itself. (Hope I can post the images correctly)

Before (Hazy)


After (clear)


Product

Opening this new topic in order to share with all outy turbo Owners some interesting info as of the outy turbo total improvement, ie engine tuning (including intercooler front mounted), remapping of the ecu, brakes upgrade, total exhaust system etc.
Starting with a photo whithout the front bumper to evaluate whether it is possible to fit an ix evo intercooler or not:

Hi,

Can anyone show me where I jack the Outlander up using a trolley jack rather than the one that comes with the car. I need to jack up the front of the car then fit Axel stands on either side so I can work on both the brakes so I need to know where I put the stands as well as where to rest the lifting point of me jack.

Any info would be helpful & a picture would be fantastic because I am not so hot on any tec terms as Outy knows.

Thanks all

I have just installed a brand new pair of front rotors and pads from EBC (pads are green Stuff) because the rotors whore damaged, wrapped i think is the word (they vibrate when braking), i have runned about 1000 kms and they are wrapped again and when the break is pressed too hard (for insteance when you are in an autoroute and you have to sudden stop) they make a terrible noise, this also happenned with the old rotors...

What do you think can be the problem since i thought EBC would be a good brand of rotors and pads? could it be a commom problem to this model because of the height? Or can it have another problem?

I thought about buying a pair of drilled and slotted rotors but in the net i just can seem to find those in USA, Does anyone knows where i can find them in any Europe online stores ???? Or what European brands manufactures them ???
Because buying from USA could be a lots of expensive because of the costums.

And do you think i could mount this rotors with the green stuff pads that i already mounted since they are only 1000 kms???

Thanks a lot for sheering your experiences.

Has anybody had their cruise control fail on them? Mine failed today. Cruise light is on in dash but nobody home. I read the schematic diagrams tonight and I think I figured out my problem in theory. The brake switch has 2 sets of contacts one which is normally closed (cruise control) and one that is normally open (Brake lights). On paper it looks like my brake switch has failed (The contact that should be normally on is always open). Brake lights work. I will trouble shoot tomorrow during daylight and post results.

Day 2 removed brake switch (1/6 turn counter clockwise), cleaned contacts tested and re-installed and still no cruise.

???

I found a corroded quick connector on the resistor that's in parallel with brake LED. This resistor was installed to fool the PCM into thinking it was seeing regular bulbs. Soldered resistor to wire instead. Cruise now works. So actually my cruise did not fail it worked exactly how it was programmed to work. It diagnosed a burnt bulb.

Hope the schematics help others.

I am sick of paying the garage to change my pads when they need changing when I know that I can buy the pads here in the UK for £ 24 so the garage is getting £60 for a 10 min job.

Can anyone tell me how easy/hard it is to fit front pads on a 2006 Outlander SE Sport & give me any tips on how to do the job, I guess I just worry that because it's the brakes I should get the garage to do it but it can't be that hard can it. I can't get any workshop manuals here in the UK of get any Cd's from ebay which show how it's done like I got for my old Spacewagons brakes so if you know of any please point me in the right direction.

Thanks in advance

Hi,
I have a 2003 outlander awd. It is coming due for a timing belt. Most dealerships by me want Aprox 475 for the belt alone to 800-900 including the water the pump and accessories belt. I am a good mechanic but not by trade. I am having trouble locating a manual for this truck. I would like to be able to view the procedure somwhere if at all possible.
My question is: is it worth doing this job myself, and if so what special tools (if any) would I need, or should I let the stealership do it and call it a day?
Thanks
AL

I gave this a title a book would have, because I've gone through a book (or workshop manual) trying to figure out what's wrong with my outlander.

The first problem I've dealt with since I bought the car from my friend (when everything was replaced) has been the car not shifting into OD. I don't know if all other gears are underpowered and if the gas mileage it's getting are right, but they seem fine.
So, here's the deal:

2003, 142,xxx miles

At 115,xxx miles the engine was replaced, the tranny was replaced, and the car got new rubbers, lights and such. No working OD.
Since then the tranny was checked, mechanically fine. The check engine light was on, the car needed and got oxygen sensors. Replaced, but the lights still on for them. The flex pipe, cat. converter, muffler were replaced. New spark plugs and wires. Same problem still. Is there something else on circuit with the o2 sensors that would be doing this?


I've stopped driving completely as of recently because now I'm having a suspension problem. The car will start acting like a wooden rollercoaster at random times. It starts shaking violently and if I come to a complete stop and go it starts doing it again immediately. Sometimes it drives perfectly fine.

Any help would be much appreciated, I'm kinda broke now and any investment further into this car would need to count more than before.

Because existing sources of auto reliability information left much to be desired, in late 2005 I started conducting my own reliability research at TrueDelta.com. TrueDelta reports absolute stats like "trips to the shop" that make the differences between cars much clearer. Results are updated four times a year, so any significant changes in a model's reliability become apparent quickly.

Participants simply report repairs the month after they occur on a one-page survey. When there are no repairs, they simply report an approximate odometer reading four times a year, at the end of each quarter.

To encourage participation, panel members will receive full access to the results for free.

For the details, and to sign up to help out:

Auto reliability research--need more Outlanders and Airtreks!

Hi There,

I have a question, our country recently emphasis on RON95 type of fuel to be used nationwide.
But if I am not mistaken, Mitsubishi Airtrek Turbo engine is not compatible with that type of fuel.

I have been using RON97. I am really scared if there is no more RON97 supply in the market.
What should I do now? Any advice? Is there any major modification should be done on my car?

Thanks in advance!

Have a 2006 Outlander (US Model) with 2.4, when warm and we let it sit for a few mins turned off, if we try to start again it cranks for 5-10 seconds before sputtering and starting. any ideas? (no check engine lights)

Hi,

I have just purchased a 2006 Outlander from a main dealer in the UK & have noted that both front tyres have wear on just the outer edge of both but across the rest of the tyres is fine. It has a new MOT so both tyres are legle but I wonder if this might be an issuse other than just hard cornering etc so I thought I would run it past other owners because the garage said this was a commom problem with the Outlander which I thought was odd.

I believe these tyres are the originals so if they are they have done 30000 miles.

Thanks

Where can I purchase a timing kit for a 1999 Mitsubishi Mirage Dingo chassis CQ2A with a 1.5L 4G15 DOHC engine? The local Mitsubishi dealer is failing to locate the correct timing belt for this car in their database. However, the dealer has managed to locate the other parts viz. Tensioner + spring + idler (which they can order).

The part number I have is MD365803.

From a google search, this timing belt belt is also found on the following vehicles: 1998+ 1.5L Lancer / Mirage with these part numbers: MD366043 / MD368413

According to some other supplier, the correct timing belt has the following characteristics (not sure if this is correct): 25mm, 141 Teeth, 8mm Tooth Pitch, Round Form

Does anyone have the instructions to adjust these please. Thanks.

2004 Outlander XLS AWD 186000Kms.....Lately when I would release the accelerator and reapply pressure on the pedal, I would hear a thumping noise. Turns out the front supports for the rear differential were beat all to hell. Here is a picture of a new one, the one on the passengers side (Right MR961408, Left MR961407). Bracket was 84$ each plus taxes. You should also replace top and bottom stops at the same time( All 4 stops about 15$). Items 9,10,11 in exploded view. I will post a picture of the destroyed ones when I replace it after snow storm ends. Both bushings are broken. Front wheel drive Outlanders will not have this problem. It took me 15 minutes to change both.

I got a 2001 Mitsubishi Airtrek 2.4 GDI.
Recently I got a check engine light, connected my ODBII scanner and got the following code:

P1035 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit

This I am told is a failure of Oxygen Sensor 1 at Bank 1

Does anyone know where I can find this sensor on the car?

Does this forum have a post with all the TSB's for the Outlander? I'm looking for the complete TSB's and not just the summaries that are available on www.nhtsa.gov.

Thanks

Just had my 76k service and well not exactly thrilled...

-Alignment (been about a year since the last one)
-Front tie rod ends
-Left Front strut
-And some repairs to the rear passenger locking mechanism

and of course it turn out that the extended warranty is useless for the repairs, with exception to the locking mechanism depending on the issue.

We in the states can not order a Turbo hood for the Outlander, is there a place so that I may place an order for one?

Hi Outies

Apart from a few minor niggles I'm very happy with my 03 Outlander. Coming up to 130,000 kms since May-03 & no problems whatsoever!

I would like to reduce my wkly fuel bill by adding the option of LPG. Mitsubishi Aust ( local dealer) tell me that my Outlander cannot be converted (not recommended) to run on LPG.

My ideal would be to be able to run on either petrol or LPG thereby reducing running costs (after allowing the conversion costs) & extending the range, which at ~ 480 / tank is rather limiting when I do almost twice that a wk.

I know that the same model Outlander was available with a dual fuel option in the UK. The spare was removed and doughnut shaped LPG tank fitted.

Any comments & advise very welcome.

Cheers from Melb Aust

Albert

Hello guys!

I woudl like to share my fresh experience with Outlander Turbo. An upleasant one.

Since 1st day I got the car new, I allways had a problem with shifting up, especially from 1st gear to 2nd gear. And the problem was more signifficant at higher revs - when accelerating harder from slow move or from idle, means when revving the engine to 3000 and higher. I felt some resistance in the gearstick move.

As more KMs came on the tacho, the problem was more and more present. And when shifting up from 1st to 2nd at 2500 revs, I heard toothing on the gearbox wheel grunting while getting in touch with other gearbox wheel rotating at different speed. Very unpleasant noise.

I thought it must a problem with syncro-rings in the gearbox. Or may be those rings can't do their job because the clutch does not disconnect regularly the engine from the gearbox and there is still some torque on one of the gearbox shafts. Fisrt time I put this complaint to the Mitsu dealer at 75.000 km inspection. Waranty lasts up to 100.000 km. They response in the inspection protocol was "shifting swing-links lubricated". Now the car is at 83.000 and I left the car at other Mitsu dealer. Still requesting fixing the problem under warranty.

Guys, look at those pictures. After disassembling the clutch, the worshop said "the clutch-plate is burned, there are overheating signs on the pressure-plate (rainbow/violet plate colour) and there are scratches and stains even on the flywheel". Please look at pictures.

[attachment=9207:SPOJKA_001.jpg] [attachment=9208:SPOJKA_002.jpg] [attachment=9209:SPOJKA_004.jpg] [attachment=9210:SPOJKA_005.jpg]

I would like to ask those of you, who have experience with clutch systems on power cars: is this a result of undersizing the clutch system when designing this car (200HP engine, heavy body + too weak clutch), or am I the stupid one, responsible for such damage? And IS THIS REAL DAMAGE, is the clutch worn more then it should be after 83.000 kms? I find myself as a driver who is interrested in how stuff works and I try to use my knowledge about drivetrains to use the car with care! To not schock the engine/clucth/gearbox/diffs due to crazy behaviour and agressive driving. Well, I am using the power from time to time. But for quick overtaking only, I am not performing 0-100 or 1/4 mile sprints, not at all. Am I guilty for using the power of my car, which I bought to have powerfull car?

The clutch plate, pressure plate and flywheel are gonna be changed. Quite expensive job. I am waiting for the investigation. Whether there is any chance to reduce my bill due to some warranty benefits. And i am waiting for the drive-test result after assembling the clutch back. If the problem will not be solved, the gearbox disassemeble and look-in come as next step. Your opinions please?

Hello

I m looking for an outlander 2.0 or turbo servo/ steering oil pump ! I will wait the offers in pm ! Thank You ! Gergo

Hello

It is my friends car from Europe, Hungary. We did some mods on the car with my help. I open new topic for the tuning project. We have some problem around the camshafts/cam gears ! There was very high knocking @ ecu tuning. only in 2 weeks later can we check the problem and go back for ecu reflashing than I will post dyno result ! Now the car is running on very high boost with less timing omw 100 ocante fuel and cams problem but over 327hp and 510nm. The target is somewhere 360-70 hp and 500-550Nm @3200 rpm 1,6bar boost . Wish we coud hit it !

Engine Mods :

stock engine block

Evo 9 exhaust manifold, no EGR

Evo 9 TME turbo ( Titanium shaft, Magnesium wheel )

Megan racing O2 house

Evo intercooler mounted to the front, the pipings are based on the evo stock pipes we coud use all of them

Evo 9 MR blow of valve

K&N panel filter

some heat wrapping on the intake and intercooler pipes

Evo 8 MR camshafts, and Fidanza cam gears

2,5" complete exhaust system /// now without any cat

walbro 255 fuel pump

Subaru STi JDM 2.0 pink 565ccm injectors because need the high impedance

Slim fan, the original is too big to fit the Evo 9 turbo

some new gaskets

Stock Ecu with Ecutek, write on Dyno Dynamics dynamometer logging evertyhing

Engine oil only Motul 300V

Interior :

Evo 9 Momo wheel need to weld in the center of a Galant steeringwheel to fit it.

Boost meter

Drivertrain :

Ralliart Twin plate clutch
Evo 6 pull up to tighten LSD

Pictures :

Hello All,

My fiancee is having a strange issue with her 03 Outlander and I thought i'd come to the experts for a little guidance so I hope you can help. As I said, she has an 03 that tends to make a loud droning/humming noise as the speed increases. The noise usually begins around 50 miles per hour. Once we hit 65, it generally subsides. The performance doesn't seem to be affected and the noise occurs regardless of added factors, I.E. air conditioner on/off, heat on/off or anything like that.

I've searched through a number of the threads but I can't seem to find anything that has the same description. If anyone has an idea of what the problem is, please give us a heads up. Thanks in advance. be safe!

I had a roaring noise that appeared around 205000Kms. Turns out it was the transmission mount that had gone bad. If you fallow the instructions in manual everything goes well. No need to remove battery tray or massairflow sensor, you can just flip airbox aside. Rubber in mount had gone soft and metal part of mount was hitting each side of bracket on body. Since I had everything apart, took time to clean butterfly. Engine now idles smoother. Took it out for a spin and no more roar. Outy runs like new.

I have a 03 Outy with a 4 spd Auto.

The lights on the dash indicator don't work anymore when I go into Drive. They still work for P,R and N.
I can't up or down shift either.
I heard that next to the shifter, under the cover, a ground wire may have come loose.

How do I remove that panel to access the wiring?

Any help appreciated.
Thanks.

how do i install fog or driving lights on my 2004 outlander and were can i get them from

New here in the states and from what I have seen I am jealous of you Turbo fellows. I have decided to take my bone stock 5-speed and turbo it. The only problem is that I am unable to find that elusive turbo hood anywhere I want the turbo project to be stock looking any help?

I know you are in Canada but do you get your parts at a local parts store or on-line. I am trying to locate the supports for the rear differential (Right MR961408, Left MR961407). I can not find them. Before I go to the dealer, I thought I'd check with you.

I have a 2003 ls outlander and it seems the panel lighting where the controls for the fan, ac/heat and venting are all out. Is there anyway to get back there and replace these bulbs/led ? I checked the fuses they all seem to be ok... In addition the ac/heat control knob sticks, I think it may somehow be related. The Mitsubishi dealership I went to wanted $893.00 to remove dashboard sections. Is there anyway around this? Any help would be appreciated.


Thanks in advance... Tony

Just wondering what people were getting per liter or gallon?

So far my outie is performing a little under for what is rated for....im getting 6.6 litter per KM or 15.7 mpg?

What are some things to improve the MPG that have to do with the engine.....or car itself....?

thanks

I was driving on some sand dusting with my new outlander (2 weeks old only 700 klm) and the tires would not move in 4wd lock. After about 2 min and the worst smell you can imagine the clutch was burned (standard 5 speed). Anyboday have any ideas what happened? Maybe bad adjustment from factory or is it the traction control that keeps the wheels from turning and kills the clutch?
BTW steering was wobbly on highway, but dealer said this was probably due to alignment and also a weezng sound couls be heard from the front, but I read in the manual this could be the learning process of the injectors.

Guys,

there is a late 2006 Outlander Turbo located in eastern Slovakia, city of Michalovce. In case you think you can use some of parts which did not got lost in the forrest where this car crashed, just PM me. Providing CAPS part product number will be most effective. I am able to ask people for pricing. The price will be puzzled from the cost for de-mounting, shipping if requested (Europe only) and the part price itself. Front of the car and tail are completelly gone. Front radiator's fans are available, but not checked for function. On the other hand, the interior is almost untouched, seats and door windows available etc. See pictures.

[attachmentid=7921] [attachmentid=7923]

This is a nice crash test view as well. Let me tell you that the driver was driving to the dealer for winter tyres. On those shitty Geolandar G035 (this season is the last one I tolerate them). It was late November 2007 and roads were slippy and wet. The driver underrated a long and fast 60-70 degrees curve and in about 130 kmh he left the road in slow spin. First impact in the ditch to the tail, then after "sailing over" to the other side of the road front of the car crashed in opposite ditch. The 55 years old driver had just small scratches on face and hands. Good protection, quite high safety level I think.