89 dodge colt 1.5 did a tranny switch from auto to manual and now it won't start......gets power to the dash...but nothing to the starter??? do i need to change the computer? ecu..? and is that the box under the heater on the floor under the dash??
thanks for the help!!!

Hi all I’m new to the forum, have searched but can’t find any help on topic (unless I’m looking in the wrong place) so I need some help please!

I have been offered a 1997 P reg Colt Mirage 1.6 16v manual car, it has full S/H and has only covered 61,000 miles and looks mint, however it has a problem: - It won’t go into 2nd without being forced? All other gears are fine and the guy assures me that it’s not the synchromesh and says it is a cable problem from the lower gear selector cable?

The cable is main dealer part and isn’t cheap!
is this a known fault?
Has anyone out there got the cables as spare?
I do like the car but should I walk away or is there an easy fix?
am I right in thinking all 1.6 16v Colts are the same from 97 to 03?
Cheers

i have a 1989 colt 1.5l and i am trying to change the tranny from an auto to a manual. How do you match up the flywheel on the car im putting it on? so it is balanced? im trying to do this tomorrow so a answer asap would be awesome
thanks!!!!

I have a mitsubishi colt 1998 model i wanted to know how to remove the wing. Because i wanted to knock out a dent.

It's the passenger side i know how to remove the top 3 bolts under the bonnet. But i don't know where the other bolts are and how to remove them. Could someone give me steps on how to remove the wing.

This is my first car so i want to learn as much about cars as possible so i want to do myself.

Thank You

My friend has a problem with no start in warm weather (around 50-60) it runs fine in winter but when it warms up it fails to start, runs fine in the winter time when its cold out but when it gets 50 to 55 outside the car no throttle response, will idle sometimes for a minute if you put your foot to the floor then it will stall. get a code for a slow e vap leak Let me know what you think

Recently my car has taken to releasing fluids without warning, then going back to being okay. First it was the clutch, which after filling the reservoir now works fine and doesn't leak at all. Next it was the power steering pump. This time I didn't catch it until after it had run practically dry. Funny thing is, it still worked like normal, and still does.

The thing that tipped me to the fact that the power steering fluid had leaked (didn't see it on the garage floor) was the noise it is now making. I thought there might be a belt letting go by the sound of it, or something rubbing against something else. But the noise is coming from inside the pump.

Question is, I am getting ready to sell it. Is it worth my trouble to put in a new pump to make the noise go away? Or should I just write it off and drop the price? The replacement pump is $150 (after core return) and I can do the repairs myself. Thanks for your help.

Hi

I have a 93 Mistubishi Mirage and am having trouble with it draining the battery quickly while turned off. It worked without problems a few days ago, but after driving it (in heavy rain) back home and parking it, it had flattened the next day. When jumpstarting the car, it seemed reluctant to start. After driving it a while, I parked it and turned the key off. Within the hour the battery was dead again. About a year ago the A/C stepper motor broke and caused a too low idling speed. Could this be related? I tested the fuses with a multimeter and found current running through the "Ignition Switch (IG2)" fuse, even with the key off. Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers

hi guys,

I am looking for a frontal close up shot of the VIE Saloon decal of a mirage. I want to put it in my mirage, I wanted to have an OEM decal but they don't have it here. So I thought of looking for one in the internet and have it copied, unfortunately I can't find one. So please if anyone of you guys out there have one, if its not too much to ask can you kindly provide me a frontal close up shot of the VIE Saloon decal of your mirage. I'll just have it printed and scanned so we can copy the exact lettering used in the decal.

by the way, here's the only shot I got from the internet but I need a close one, the closer the better. Its the one below the right tail light.



Thank you very much

Hi all, new to the forum and my first post.
I have a 1993 mitsubishi colt glxi 1.6 16v that i am trying to put back on the road after 6 years of it lying in my driveway gathering moss. I have replaced the battery with a brand new one and the car starts up fine. The driver side back wheel was seized and i managed to free it. I suspect the brakes need changed on the car though.
I reversed it out my drive and drove up and down the garage area, steering seemed fine, it changed into 2nd gear ok, the problem - when i was braking to come to a stop(to change from 1st to reverse, vice versa or just stop completely) the engine would stall even though i had my foot on the clutch. If i keep the revs up i can catch it in time before stalling. Any ideas why? Thanks

hi friends,

I need some help with my mirage 2001,

when it starts the OBDII indicates a TIMING about 5 degres, but when in push the acelerator pedal it increse abrupt at 65 degres and a valve sound apears, it is more obvious in a uphill,

the OBDII don't reports any error codes, i understand that the ECU advance the time engine to obtain more power and the knok sensor controls the noise, but I can't find the KNOCK sensor,


any sugestions are wellcome...

thanks....

I had a timing belt break, and that bent the valves, had the head rebuilt...Install the head and match up the round circle on the cam gear to the little arrow on the head, on the crank I lined up the dowl pin on the crank gear to the mark on the block...Now is this the only way that the timing can to set up....I'm not missing something am I....This is a 1989 Colt 1.5L.....Mike

Hi -
I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Mirage that I use primarily as transportation to and from work. I have had the car since April and it has worked great for me. Last week, my low beams on my headlights went out but I still have High Beams. I have checked every fuse and and wire that I can possibly find and everything appears to be in working order. Does anyone have any idea what may be causing this? There have been no other issues with anything electrical. I am attempting to keep from going to a mechanics office because of the cost. Any of your responses would be much appreciated.

thanks!

So I got an 89 Dodge Colt E 1.5L from my dad a few months ago, and it ran pretty rough when I got it. After replacing the spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter and fuel filter it still runs badly. It idles rough, and jerks back and forth while cruising. At full throttle it feels okay, and if I let off the gas at highway speeds it's not noticeable either. When idling, it starts to stall and then recovers over and over again. I've pulled the plug wires off one by one while it's running and didn't really notice any change in the crappy idle. I'm wracking my brain here and I just don't know. Anybody want to throw some ideas at me? Thanks...

Scott

Has anyone else had this issue? I noticed that if my stock stereo is unbolted from the car but still connected electrically, it will not work with the lights on. I was getting pretty irritated, but went ahead and started screwing it back in. When i touched the screw to the stereo mounting bracket to screw it in, it sparked... what gives? Once I screwed that one screw in the stereo started working again. I find it very weird that the mounting bracket is also a ground... anyone?

Hi,

I'm trying to repair my car myself.
It's a 1990 Mirage hatchback.
1.5L engine.
No turbo.
3 speed automatic transmission.

I've read through a number of threads on this site.

3 weeks ago my car seemed fine.
Then one day I started it, it turned over like normal, but then died.
I started it again, and drove 1/2 a city block before it died again.
I knew something was wrong, but started it again, drove about 3 blocks, and it died again.
This time it wouldn't restart!

Now the starter cranks, but the engine won't turn over.
G-G-G-G-G-G, but no BRMMMMMMMMMM!

I read on Wikipedia that some engines shut down when the oil gets too low.
I checked my oil and it was VERY low.
I added 2 quarts and got it back into the normal level, but the still wouldn't start.

I put a new coil in, but it didn't change anything.

The plugs are sparking.
I took them all out.
They're all sparking.

I opened the banjo fitting on the fuel filter, then cranked it for a half second before my dad hollered, "stop! fuel's coming up!"
I don't know what pressure the fuel is coming up at, because I don't have the tool to test that.

I removed the injectors and fuel rail, put paper under the injectors and cranked it.
The paper was dry.

I removed the wire connecters to the injectors, then hooked up an ohmmeter to the injector's wire connector.
When my dad cranked the engine, I didn't get any deflection on the ohmmeter needle.
I hooked up a 12 volt flashlight battery to an injector and it sprayed fuel.
(I probabaly shouldn't have used a 12 volt battery.
I read later that the power is cut to something like 1/4 of the voltage before it goes to the injectors.)

That's as far as I've gotten.

I have the wiring diagrams and schematics for the '89 Colt.
I'm lookinking through them for clues.

I tried to pull the OBD codes using an analog ohmmeter.
(I probabaly made a mistake here, too.
I unhooked the negative terminal on the battery while I was doing some of the previous work.
I didn't know that would erase the computer's memory.)
Anyway, I cranked it a few times to see if I could get any codes back in the memory.
With the key in the ignition and turned on (but not turned all the way to starting), the needle goes half way up on the meter and just sits there.
I also tried it with the key turned all the way to starting.
Same results.
The needle goes halfway up on the ohmmeter and stays there, no wavering.
I've read that a constant 12 volts means there are no trouble codes stored, but I haven't read anything about the needle going half way up and staying there.
Does anyone know what that kind of reading means?


Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks,
Ken

Hello I have 93 Colt 1.5 litre auto. It runs fine untill I start going up hill then it starts hesitating like its misfireing.

Even when I am over the hill it will continue hesitating the duration of my trip. Runs fine after sitting all night untill I come to a hill.

I have recently had the distributer, plugs, wires replaced.

Looks like another $ visit to the mechanic.

Any suggestions would be apprieciated . Thanks.

I have been noticing for a while that the care is pathetic at accelerating in first gear, and for a while I thought it was normal. The I noticed that there is a small hill to get out of my driveway and I can barely get up it! If I back the car up a bit or drive a circle around the yard it then seems to be able to develop enough power, but not without a few minutes of running it can't. Then there was a minor problem and the battery ended up draining while it sat a few days and then when I got it squared away it had a LOT more power in first! I could actually pull into traffic with good speed (it hasn't been able to do that in a long time). Unfortunately though over the course of a few days the problem returned and now it is weak in first. It is not slipping because there is no engine rev, and it works fine at any speed. It does shift a lot but I figured that is normal for such a tiny engine to get up hills and such. Pleas, does anyone have any ideas of what this could be? Thanks in advance....

Hello I drove around for a couple hours today went to the drive thru waited bout 10 min and noticed temp has risen way up. Temperature goes back down when driving. Fuse maybe? Dont know where fuse box is and which one to change. Need help, sitting in rush hour come Monday.
Thanks for any input.

1993 dodge colt sedan 1.5 litre.

I changed my battery and now my radio won't work. My model number is MR472955 and my serial number is 99A132425. Any help would be appreciated
Thanks

OK so here it is, have a 2000 Mirage DE auto 1.8. I'm getting a PO420 code for a bad catalitic converter. Pulled the part and it doesn't seem bad.....??? Current plan is to replace the part but, seeing as this is a $$$ eater looking to see if anyone knows if it could be throwing a false code.

Facts:
1. has stalled a couple times on cold start
2. if I clear the code it comes back in a couple of days

That's all I got.

Any help is much appreciated!

My wife's car keeps dying once I bring it to a stop light or any stop for that matter. It's a 1998 1.5 Mirage automatic. Once it stalls, I can start it up immediately without a problem, but the idle still seems unstable at that point.

Before yesterday, it would happen intermittently. Then, I changed the plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor, which were long overdue. Now it's stalling at EVERY stop.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

We've tried loctite (2 flavors), high temp thread sealer, various kinds of lock washers, but every single time the bolt backs out and this last time I lost it on the highway. I found a bolt that fits but it backed out even with the thread sealer and lockweashers and all the torque I could muster. It took less than an hour on thirty miles of highway. I am at wits end with this! I am about to take an arc welder and spot weld it fast.

Does anyone have a solution?

winter's coming and my hard starts are getting harder... my fuel pressure regulator isnt working. no fuel pressure when starting,and no change in pressure when i disconect the vaccum line to it. 5 minutes and 20 cranks later ill get her going. hesitation improves as i drive a few minutes. could the regulator cause the start and hesitation problem? as for the oil burning, blue smoke out the exhaust on stop to start. and there's oil seeping out the exhaust pipe to the turbo... valve stems?...

Im working on my friends 95 mirage 1.5l. it bent a rod and destroyed a piston when he was trying to use the car as a jet ski. well i have some doubts on how to set the timing right. since the motor was stuck i couldnt move the timing mark into place and i had to tear it apart as it was.

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/a...ingdiagram.jpg

im using that out of a manual i found online. thing is since the piston was stuck i couldnt mode the timing to their timing marks i had to take it apart and now im a bit confused on this.

i know i have to set the #1 piston to TDC of the compression stroke. i think that settings the pistons is not the hard part. setting the heads is that i find the hardest.

im confused on the gears as the cam gear will rotate once while the bottom one will rotate twice thru the cycle. pretty much the heads gear is fool proof. now how do i set the pistons?

this motor moves two pistons to TDC and two go to BDC. i think that setting it either way will not create trouble. if i rotate the small gear in first or second rotation will not create problems.

anyways, can anyone clear my doubts??

Hi there guys, I have a 1999 Mitsubishi Mirage DE 4Dr Sedan with 102,000 miles on it ... recently I have been hearing some noise in the front and when I check it up I found the struts leaking, which means it's time to get them changed.

I have shopped around and found the 2 most common brands to be the Monroe Sensa Trac and the Gabriel Ultra. I am not looking for anything fancy here so please don't propose the KYB, Bilstein or Kony

My question here is has anyone tried either brand? Can anyone recommend this one or the other? Both are almost same prices (62 $ for each side and the mount for about 50$ each side).

Another thing, do I need to add that strut-boot? it is just a plastic cover over the the upper part of the strut, but is there any drawback of not installing it?

Thanks everyone!!

does anyone know or have a distributor cap for sale for a mitsubishi colt 1.3?

OK,

So my car is not in the glory it once was,
On my list of "to do's" are the struts.

I wish to replace them, however, i would like to be able to change the springs to something more road-hugging.

Root issue: Should i replace my struts at home
If so, will i be able to fit some springs that will add better handling performance.

Please advise on how best to proceed.

Thank you Mitsu Dudes,
-c

hey i have a 1998 Mitsubishi Mirage DE and was wondering what the bolt pattern on my 4g15 was also im looking into doing a 4g63 swap and wanted to know from what vehicle i could obtain one from a evo, eclipse, talon or what.. please let me know thank you

1990 Colt - 315K - 200E/1.5L - used to run great but then one day BAM! The car had been running fine all morning and then all of a sudden it was like someone pulled a plug wire. Horrible acceleration and stalling at stop lights and signs. I've checked the wires and they're ok, I've replaced the plugs, and the alternator and battery have both been tested and found to be fine. I've also replaced the fuel filter. I've read online and elsewhere that the EGR or a vacuum line could be to fault. I've had it in at a shop but they want to start with the basics and work their way up - all at my expense of course! This is a one owner car and it's been great over the 17 years that we've had her. Starts when it's minus 40, excellent on gas, no major expenses to speak of. Any help at this point would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

It started one evening when I turned on the lights, and the dashboard light did not work, I had to use a torch to see the speedo.

Then I noticed that the front headlight (passenger side) was not working, I replaced it. then one of the rear lights (the inner one of the two) passenger side was not working. I replaced that too.

Now, the problem has moved to the Rear lights on the drivers side, (the inner light does not work, and the bulb is fine), and when you put your foot on the brake, the break lights come on, and the one on the drivers side goes off.

I checked the fuses, they all seem ok
I checked the bulbs, they seem ok

Somebody said it was the earth, do you think it could be and how would I check this and fix this.

Incidentally this happened a few weeks after I had a stereo put in, and it worked ok so I dont think this is the problem, but I am not ruling this out.

Hi guys:

When I drive my 2000 Mirage DE I feel that when the car gets 60 mph in the highway, the engine slow down a little bit like if it had 5th gear. ( Mine has AT).

Reading about Auto Trannys in the Internet i found that some cars features something called Torque Converter Lockup.... is that the case of the Mirage's Transmision???

besides that, my car runs in prettu good conditions and mileage is excellent.

Hi,

This might sound a bit stupid, but keep in mind i am female, I walked out to my car tonight and noticed a flashing light comming from under my car, I poped the bonnet and it looks like an immoboliser of some sort. im just wondering why it would be flashing? I have a rust protection system in it could it have anything to do with that?

What could it be?

I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Mirage and one of the front speakers recently died. I'd like to replace it but can't for the life of me figure out how to get the door panels off. It looks like I may not have to take the whole door panel off because the speaker has a separate panel that forms the door pocket.

I've tried gently prying at both the main door panel and speaker panel without any luck. I'm afraid any more force will break the pins.

Anyone have any advice/instructions on how to get the panel off.

hi i got an 1991 mitsubishi colt with an 2.0 4g63 non turbo galant engine and i was wondering is there much trouble iff i would like to get turbo?? what is it i have to get to make into a turbo

Hi every one.
I have Mitsubishi Colt GLX 1.3i 12v 1998.
I can't start engine bicouse in injectors ECU was not alow negative pole.
On my comm. and digimoto 5 its write faul code:
" 21. ECI COMM. FAIL "
Fuel pump is ok, All sensors is OK, But injectors not alow fuel to engine.
Thanks...

Hi every body, I cant start my mitstubishi colt cjo glx, when turn key on and I try to start engine my engine check lamp flash constantly, and is no fuel in sistem.
in service when it install alarm it crash my immobilizer, what i can do?

1995 mirage has weak voltage from distbutor 3.5 volts but some times will fire a few clyinders

Hi everyone im new to this forum...i wish to know how to install speakers on my "old" colt glx
what can i do?i dont know....i must "screw" the doors?
thanx

Just finished an engine change and am a little concerned about a couple things.
Car is a 1994 dodge colt. I pulled an engine out of a 93 colt but kept the intake manifold from the 94 mostly for the egr valve.

1. I've yet to see the fan run, the car still warms up to just under half way on the temp gauge like it always did, and he top rad hose still doesn't seem to be getting warm.
The two heater hoses to the firewall get really warm and I've seen steam from the bottom one. I've checked the fan ,relay and fuse all passed. Wonder if the thermostat is shot

2. There is a switch on the firewall for when the hood is opened that when i raise the hood the front signal lights flash on and off or sometimes just stay on.

I've been at this mess for 2 weeks and am open to suggestion. Thanks to anyone who can help.

Hi All,
I just got a 94 vista wagon,
It needs a new auto trans. I need help with either finding a trans or ideas on how to rebuild it cheaply. It does move but you have to rev to 400rpm to go forward or back.
To add to my woes the kids decided to clean the motor and interior WITH THE GARDEN HOSE. 10 minutes later the car is soaked in and out and under the hood and the engine will now not run.. well it started, ran 20 seconds and now will not start. It seems to have no spark?
Any assistance, ideas appreciated please!!

Hard too start when cold.

When i bought the car with 87,000 miles only issue it had was hard time staring in the morning. It takes about 10-20 minutes to start, but once you get it warmed up it runs fine all day and all night but once you park it overnight and try too start it in the morning the starting issue comes back.

Now after puting close too 15,000 miles on the car with this starting issue when driving the check engine light would come on when coasting (clutch pedel too the floor without pressing the gas peddle) but once you give it gas it would go off. Lastest issue is it stalling out when driving in the city.

Things i replaced.

fuel filter,cap & roter,spark plugs and wire,starter (1 year ago) + new battery.

Well I inherited a 94 Colt Summit Wagon, the mother in - law had it since new, now the transmission went and the repair shop said minimum $3-4000 to fix.
They decided it's not worth it. She gave it to me for free.!
I found a used transmission $500 and new wheels $500.
I spent 5 days cleaning,steaming, power-polishing and generally going through the car.
Pictures attached.
I tinted the windows $100, put in a sunroof from the junk yard $20 (no leaks!)
and generally cleaned fixed and maintained everything..
Now EVERYTHING works! except the cruise control which is intermittent, and the rear luggage tray is broken.
Anyone who can find me a rear tray (grey colour preferred but not necessary) and give advice on cruise control repair, would be appreciated.
Thanks for reading.. enjoy my pics only have after shots,, no befores.
Neil[attachmentid=8535][attachmentid=8536][attachmentid=8537]

Dumb question #31039-

Is is normal to not be able to rotate by hand the outer (hollow) splined shaft going into the KM171 3-sp auto transaxle, or does this indicate some problem ? The inner shaft rotates easily.

Hey everybody, I've exhausted all search options for my problem and cannot find anything relating to it.

So here goes, I have a 1990 Mirage, 1.5l that is having problems starting in the morning. Basically, in the morning, the check engine light does not turn off, and this has come to tell me that it will not start. In the afternoons/evenings, the check engine light does turn off and it starts right up. Occasionally in the morning, the check engine light will turn off and it will start clicking a lot from somewhere behind/under the radio, and the car will run but every time it clicks, the car stumbles and wants to die. I just have no idea what it could be and really can't afford to take it to a mechanic.

The starter is brand new (as the old one went out), It has a refurbished ECU because the old one's cap's were leaking profusely, It also has a new cap and rotor, wires, plugs all within the last about 5000 miles. The car cranks just fine with this problem it just doesn't ever actually start running.

Any help or ideas on this are greatly appreciated.
Thank you for your time.

-Eric

P.S. If there is any other information that you need, let me know and I'll post it up ASAP.

Hello to all. I have a couple of questions re the main computer (brain) on a 1994 Colt with the 1.5 engine and 5 speed manual.

Is the brain located inside the car, close to where your right foot would be if you were a passenger sitting in the front seat? Kinda right in the right front wheel well but inside the car?
There is also a metal box located between the 2 front seats just underneath the plastic console that contains some electrical/electronic stuff as well.....................what is this metal box? It is mounted just underneath the plastic console where you have a bit of a "dish"................your change ends up going in there, and you sometimes lean your right elbow on it when you drive.

Thank you

hello people. i have been thinking of fitting a turbo to my 1.5 asti z. it has the 4g91 engine in it, and ive been told a 4g93t exhaust manifold will fit. can anyone tell me if this is correct..

Hey, i have a 90 colt turbo 1.6L SOHC. Cold start, idles fine 750 rpm but it hesitates if i punch it higher than 2000rpm, if i floor it she stalls. Once car warms up hesitation persists yet improves slitghtly. Much more sluggish at low rpm. the hesitation got worse n worse over the past months, making the car hesitate more n more at an even lower rpm/how hard i punch the gas.

Changed head gasket, retimed engine, distributor cap n rotor, spark plugs n wires, air/fuel filters,

I was thinking timing but im reading 16 deg on my light, 29 & 0 deg if i move a tooth on the cam either way. All attempts the hesitation persited. 16 deg with mark on cam sproket lined up with the casing, and crank pulley mark lined up with the T on the BTDC scale...is that correct? fine adjusted timing by distributor didnt solve nothing either.

runs better at higher idle and also when hot.

Hey Hey everybody.

I'm from Mild To Wild Restorations in Australia and I wanted to share with more people the Colt being released by us this week. Its just a 1988 Mitsu Colt that we have given a makeover for a radio station promotion. Its a giveaway, yep completely free to one lucky listener.

But anyway I just wanted some Mitsubishi appreciators to see this, the complete pictures will be up on the website tomorrow when we hand it over to the radio station. At the moment the complete build is there so make sure you check this out today and tomorrow.

Oh! And her names' Dolly..

http://www.mildtowildrestorations.com.au/index.php?id=228

Hope y'all dig it



For interested parties they can just checkout everything else we've done here.

www.mildtowildrestorations.com.au

I have the 89 plymouth colt e 1.5l 5-speed manual that blew up on me... i just got back from the local junkyard and there is an automatic 90 talon that had 102k miles on it... the 2.0 dohc one n/a... how hard is this swap? how is the wiring? it looks like it will bolt right up minus the rear mount.

If anyone could give me a step-by-step that would be great