Got a dyno done on my car yesterday. Stock baseline runs, 2.4L, manual transmission.

motor hp from mitsubishi: 168
motor torque from mitsubishi: 167
-------------------------------------------------------
(3) 4th gear runs

max wheel hp: 157.82
max wheel torque: 163.52

4th gear MPH at 6300 rpm = 115 mph

air/fuel ratio: 2.4L runs rich

Only a 7% loss of horsepower from engine to wheels (very good)

[attachment=9846:2009_lan...ine_dyno.jpg]

Max Power = Horse Power
Max Torque = Foot Pounds

Dyno's performed on DynoJet Model: 248x - 2-wheel drive.

1. Stock dyno (roughly 2,000KM odo) [chart fixed]:

[attachment=10155:marcinstock.jpg]

Max Power = 132.74
Max Torque = 136.69

2. Mod - Magnaflow cat-back, RRM Pulley (roughly 58,000KM odo) [chart fixed]:

[attachment=10156:marcinmagnaflow.jpg]

Max Power = 137.86
Max Torque = 140.79

Gains:
Power = 5.12
Torque = 4.1

2.2 Mod (TEST) - Magnaflow cat-back, RRM Pulley, air filter removed from box (roughly 58,000KM odo):

[attachment=9851:marcin_dyno.jpg]

Max Power = 139.28
Max Torque = 141.78

3. Mod - Magnaflow cat-back, RRM Pulley, AEM CAI (roughly 68,500KM odo):

[attachment=10153:dynowithAEM_single.jpg]

Max Power = 143.80
Max Torque = 144.21

Gains (over #2):
Power = 5.94
Torque = 3.42
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Total gains over stock:

Power = 11.06
Torque = 7.52

Total money spent on parts (approximate):

$1130 Canadian

Extra info:

$102.2 per 1 horse power (approx)
$150.3 per 1 ft/lbs of torque (approx)

Installed all the parts myself so no labor costs.

Here's my 2008 ES. I just put this TI-c on about 2 weeks ago.
I couldn't take pics of the whole instal cause i didn't have my camera but its a simple job. The three hangars that are on the stock exhaust are utilized on the new exhaust only reconfigued when you do this remember (the shims can be moved around). If you have any questions give me a shout.

TuX_69 was asking me how my CAI installation went and asked me to supply some pictures of how everything was done. Injen provides you with all the necessary instructions on how to install the CAI, but nothing on the front bumper. I went the alternate route and did everything through my underpanel, wheelwell, and fog light. Upon writing up the PM to send back to TuX_69, I realized that this information was too good to just give to one person... so I share it with all of you!

Just note that this will show you ONLY how to access the underpanel and wheelwell without breaking anything. As for the rest of the CAI installation, Injen provides you with detailed images and steps for both manual and CVT transmissions. Just work your way around the bumper

Tools required:
+ Phillips screwdriver
+ Flathead screwdriver
+ 10mm socket wrench (optional, but it will be required for the complete CAI install)

Step 1: Removing the underpanel


It's fairly painless. Using a flathead screwdriver, pop out each of the tabs. As you can see, I am missing one. When I installed mine, my clumsy friend left one on the floor and he stepped on it, rendering it useless. So please note... keep them safe! Result...


Easy as pie!


Step 2: Removing the wheelwell


This is where it gets a little tricky. You will need to turn your wheel inwards (to the right) in order to access the first 2 screws. These can be removed using a phillips screwdriver. They are exactly the same as the ones used in the vent for the stock airduct. Once you remove these, you need to access two more pins...



The one in the far back is just like the ones on the underpanel. However, the other one is a real pain. It's not a 2 piece pin like the rest. This is one solid pin. You can still pry it out with a flathead and yank it out with your fingers once you can get a good grip on it. There is one final screw you need to get out. I couldn't get a good picture of it, so instead...


I give you a picture of me removing it!

It's a combination 10mm nut with a cross thread inside. You could use the phillips to get it out, but they are usually pretty tight. I did it with the 10mm socket wrench (plus an extension) because I didn't want to strip the threading. Once you get everything out, you can push the wheelwell away from you (towards the engine) and pull it out. Result...


You can see the filter and curve pipe (as well as my remounted tranny cooler and my HID ballast for my left fog ). You should be able to pull it back far enough to get your hand and forearm in. From here you would pull down on the black tubing while feeding it down from your hood. The curve pipe and filter can be put in from the underpanel. Use a flathead screwdriver with a long neck and wide head when securing these clamps... it makes it several times easier!

You will need to remove the fog light housing to complete the CAI installation because of the location for the vibration mounts for the curve pipe. The fog light is easy to take out, so pictures aren't necessary here.

ENJOY!

How To for people without fancy tools.
Tested and performed on the 2008 Lancer (manual transmission).

First and most of all, look at the instructions that came with you pulley, read them thoroughly and understand what you are doing before you read this How To. You can use this at YOUR OWN RISK. I recommend you get a professional to install the pulley for you – I take NO RESPONSIBILITY for anything that goes wrong with you or your car while you’re installing this part or thereafter.

1. Remove the passenger side wheel.
2. Remove the lower part of the plastic shielding (there are a few clip in fasteners on top of the shielding as well as at the bottom – a small flat screwdriver works well)
[attachmentid=7727]

3. Pop your hood open, locate the Radiator Coolant reservoir. There is only one screw holding it in place, remove that. Now you can twist the reservoir and put it somewhere to the side to gain access to the tensioning pulley from the top (it’s easier that way if you have a shorter tool – no crack a$$ jokes ).
[attachmentid=7728]

4. Get someone to use a wrench (or whatever you got) and pull/push/yank it towards the front of the car as much as possible (it takes a bit of strength).
[attachmentid=7729]

5. Slip under the car while the tension is taken off the timing belt. Slip the timing belt off the crank pulley and let it loose to the side. I suggest you use thick protective gloves while you’re doing this in case the tension pulley snaps back and yer fingurs are in the way.

6. Now that you have the timing belt off you can get your poor friend (who’s arm is probably falling off by now) to let go of the tension pulley. Now it’s time to crank the crank pulley off. First of all you will need to secure the pulley so it doesn’t spin while you’re unscrewing it. If you have a tool to hold it in place, use it. If you don’t (like me) get a crow bar or something that tough, wrap it in a cloth (to avoid doing damage to any of the parts), shove it into any of the crank pulley openings and get your helper to hold the pulley in place while you are sweating you’re a$$ off trying to get the pulley loose. Once you get the bolt out just yank the pulley straight out – it should come out no problem. Look at the picture for directions to twist in.
[attachmentid=7730]

7. So lets say you got the pulley off. Follow the directions on your manual that came with the pulley to know what to clean, what to lubricate etc.

8. Now that you are absolutely confident that you know what you’ve gotten yourself into, install the RRM pulley. Use the same instructions as getting the old one off – obviously in reverse, DUH! Put a lot of power into getting the bolt back on properly. If you don’t have a torque wrench (like me) just eye-fak-it and secure it the best you can. If you have it too loose it might leak, if you got it too tight you might rip the threads and then you’re pooched. Good luck.

9. Now get your friend to relieve the tension again so you can slip the belt back onto the pulley. Once you get it make sure the belt is aligned properly on the other pulleys. One more thing, there is a little notch on the pulley (probably in the front). Just above the pulley to the right (if you’re looking at it straight and the front end of the car is to your right) there is a marker with 1 0 1 on it. Set the notch to be aligned with 0. Done.

10. Put the coolant reservoir back on. Check to make sure the belt is inline with everything and go start your car… now come back… inspect the belt and the crank pulley visually to ensure everything is bolted on and aligned properly. You might notice a slightly different sound coming from the crank shaft (or wherever it’s actually coming from). Don’t worry, it should go away. Put your poor car together and go drive around a bit. Stop and check every now and then to make sure everything is still in place. Every so often check the pulley for leaks and that it's still tight and secure until you get sick of it and accept the fact that you probably installed it correctly.

Have fun and good luck!

[attachmentid=7731]

NOTE: There is a little pin that holds the crank pulley in place, it fits in the groove on the inside of the pulley. Be CAREFUL when removing and especially when installing the new pulley. The pin has potential to pop out, don't let it drop! Mine dropped but got stuck on something and didn't fall into the oil pan so I was able to fish it out. If you lose that thing in there you might have to remove the entire oil pan to get it out - NOT FUN.

If you need help, have a question, or are looking for something specific, proper grammar and punctuation are essential. It's understandable that English is not the primary language for some of our users, but if you are able to use the internet in your country, then you are also able to use spell check, grammar, and punctuation to at least some extent.
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How to use punctuation correctly:
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Don't be lazy, proofread your post before submitting, and fix any errors you see.

...

As you can clearly see, the list is empty. Why? Because... there is NO such thing as a 2009 Lancer specific part.

ALL PERFORMANCE PARTS THAT FIT THE 2008 LANCERS WILL FIT THE 2009 LANCERS!!!

Yes, even the 2.4L GTS... they all fit.

Please stop posting new topics asking "What parts will fit the 2009 Lancer? I have the 2.4L and the only parts I can find are for the 2008. I searched, so please don't flame me."

Mods, please sticky and lock. This thread does not need to be discussed any further.

Is there a turbo out for the 2.4 yet? And just to bring it down some more, a CVT tranny.... haha

So my sri finally came, i was installing it last night, and got to step 18, which is bolting on a support for the intake itself. The picture they provide is horrible, and when i called their tech support, the guy i needed to talk to was gone; he should be calling be back today.

Anyway, the support is just a peice of metal with about a 135 degree bend in the last inch of 1 end, if i bolt it on to the intake, and put the intake in place, the only bolt even close to the right location is the bottom rear bolt on the throttle bore, but the angle isn't right and there isn't enough space.

K&N is supposed to be calling me back today at 6 local time, and apparently they may want pictures, so hopefully we can figure it out

Just wondering, since others here have this intake, if i'm crazy, or if there's no bolt on the 2.0 that they show in the picture...like maybe k&n's install guide's pics are for a 2.4 or something...

I know this topic already came up but I haven't heard much about this for a while.

Some people, including myself, have had the issue (on manual transmissions Lancers) where 2nd gear doesn't pop in properly with the clutch pressed in.

To me it usually happens in high RPMs or when trying to shift from 1st to 2nd quickly.
I'm wondering if anyone has dealt with this yet, or had is serviced?
When I went in for service they test drove the car, I test drove the car with the service guy driving, then I drove the car after him... guess what? OF COURSE it would NOT happen at the dealership!
But it is a reoccurring problem on my 2008 GTS - I had 4 other people recreate that issue on my car.

I'm wondering if this is also happening on the 2009 Lancers?

So today I changed my oil. I switched to 5w-20 Royal Purple oil and a Royal Purple filter. The filter is purple and the oil is colored purple as well.

The RP oil and filter is good for 12k miles. I plan to change my oil every 7500 miles or 6 months. (every october and april) This way I don't have to change it in the middle of the winter. I drive just under 15k miles a year, so it should work out good.

Royal Purple seems expensive, but for the whole year it's really not bad for a top of the line, premium, fully synthetic oil and filter.

Cost:
1 quart = $7.24 (5 quarts = $36.20)
Filter = $13.75

Total: $49.95 + tax = $53.95

1 year total = $107.90

First impression........ it has significantly quieted our normally noisy engine. I didn't notice at first, but after a drive when I got back home I got out and listened and the engine was noticeably quieter. Felt really smooth while driving too, but that could just be the fresh oil feeling. From all the reviews I've read it's supposed to increase horsepower as well. I'll see what the dyno says on that.

Just wondering if anyone has installed one of These and what their opinions are

Not fairly familiar when it comes to the brains of the car. What exactly does the flash do, and what exactly is specific about the Works one? It says it gives about 15hp, and you ship out your ECU? Fairly old new I think, but would like to know about it in time for my next upgrade http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WpOw9YvcbPE

09 Lancer ES, no mods, Automatic.

The Maintenance guide says first oil change and filter at 7500 miles plus tire rotation. However i have heard for new cars, its better to change it at 3000-3500. Is this true? Also if it is, is there a special kind of oil one is suppose to use for the first change? Any recommendations on what I should ask the mechanic. I plan to take it to a private mechanic such as Goodyear and ask for a better oil than they usually give instead of going in to the dealership....even though they might give me a discount.

Alright, in a nutshell, im switching to synthetic oil. Now RP is awsome, but i dont know how easily i can get it in canada, I know IDEAL supply has it but not sure exactly what. My question is, Can i use a Mobile 1 synthetic filter with RP 5w20-30? Or do i NEED to use the RP filter. I know there will be oil, but not sure about the filters here. If i cant, should i just stick to Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic with their synthetic filter?

Hey everyone,
I just bought an 09 Lancer ES and I have about 4820 miles on the car now butfor come reason when I put it in reverse it will act as f it isn't engaged... When my Lancer is warmed up or even cold I put it in reverse and it seems to not wanna go in goes half way than I gotta pop it out and put it back in or gears grind which I know so i don't let the clutch up. Does any one else have that problem or should I take it in? I am worried that the synchroes are going already... I know how to drive a manual so that isn't the problem... I have the 2.0L with 5 speed manual tranmission... I had a friend who owned Lancer 5 speeds drive it and e said to take it in to the dealer but I didn't want to take it in for them to tell me they are chasing ghosts and wanted to see what everyone thought about it
Thanks for your input.

Now id like to keep this non flaming and seriously just a practical debate. Just because im sick of some gts owners bragging about their engine in the area i live in vs the 2.0

Okay so correct me if im wrong.. And feel free to add!

Pros 2.0

Fuel economy
Price vs the 2.4
More upgrade options

Pros 2.4

More torque and hp
Quieter

Now the argument is that their 2.4 is faster. But its true, non-upgraded. But in reality. Best bang for the buck imo' would be the 2.0 because for the money you would save buy buying the 2.0DE from the 2.4GTS you could add a turbo, and stroker kit plus. Which would boost you up to about 250hp no problem. OF course you would void your warrenty. But personally i love the 2.0 because of the options you have atm. Id prefer the 2.4 if there weren't any. But am i alone lol. Did any1 else but the 2.0 to make it a upgrade project like the old lancers?
I guess another question would be, why did you decide to but the gts over the 2.0?

Hey guys, and gals.

Just curious to know if anyone put any (i.e. exhaust, but especially CAI or SRI - maybe the AEM CAI?) of the modifications designed for the 4B11 (2.0L) engine on their 4B12 (2.4L) engine.

I pulled my old ones off the totalled Lancer, and wanted to slap them back on the new one.
I know the exhaust shouldn't be an issue, but I'm somewhat skeptical about the cold air intake...

Any input?

Hey Guys, Im new to this forum but from what ive read your all very helpful.

I just got a new 2009 lancer es (or gt in canada) 2 weeks ago, 5 speed manual. I've put an rrm sri and so far so good. Im thinking of putting an exhaust and ive read alot about magnaflow and greddy. So far i like the magnaflow but i went to a muffler place nearby and they basically will charge me 280$ for the catback exhaust and muffler installation. The piping is 2.25inch same as the magnaflow and the muffler is from a company called Reactive.

I asked the guy there, he said its very comparable to magnaflow with more than half the price. The muffler is stainless steel, the pipe is not and thats why its alot cheaper. Any of you guys have any feedback on those type of mufflers? Could not find much info on the net. Pirce looks awesome so im swayed to get it.

let me knowwhat you guys think if i get get no feedback ill post some up if iget it.

also looking to get rrm timinng module,ecu piggyback, and eventually lower the springs and change the header.

Is their a noticeable feeling between the 2.0 and 2.4 liter? Does it offer more torque or high end hp, or a little of both?

Hey My gf is looking into the new 2.4 gts with cvt tranny ( she doesnt drive stick). I just have one question. whats the total hp output and fastest estimated track times i can get out of the car if i get every mod out for it minus the turbo kit?

im talking headers intake exhaust pulley piggy back etc.

its a toss up between this and yet another audi.... an A4 2.0t. this car would def cost a little more than the 2.4 but I do look at overall potential of a car not just te stock specs sheet. thanks

Got the SRI today in the mail, VERY fast shipping. It was alot lighter than I had expected. Installation was a piece of cake, no problems like the K&N Typhoon SRI. One of the clamps was a little stripped so I will be replacing tomorrow. After install and reconnection of the battery, the daytime running lights do not turn on right away but do end up coming on. Possibly I messed with the fuse or is that normal? Anyway, the intake gives it a mean growl, much more than I had expected and seems to add to the acceleration, I still have to test a little more. This is my first mod but I will be installing a Magnaflow Cat Back tomorrow which I have waiting in my garage. Thanks to NY-GTS for recommending the SRI.

Looking for some input on parts and fluids you guys use for your car at tune up time. Right now I use Castrol Syntec Fully Synthetic Oil and Fram Oil Filter, but I'm looking for spark plugs and wires, and other fluids for my car. If you guys give me an idea of what you use and like for your cars it'll help me narrow down my search. Thanks

Just giving a little teaser pic... feedback welcome

any one know the hp gains from AEM or INJEN cai? I can't find the dyno charts anywhere. I know k&N's adds 6.75hp

So I have a friend who's a mechanic and he says all you have to do convert the 2.0 engine to a 2.4 is change out the heads.

Does anybody know if this is true?

I heard about a slr motor sports performance chip and i was just wondering if anyone has purchased/used it. i am skeptical of it cause its only $70

I was about to order a Magnaflow exhaust today and at the last minute i realized that cutting the pipe sounds like something the dealership might frown on. I was just wondering if any of you had any trouble with this before.

The car is only 2 months old and i'd hate to ruin the warranty for something silly like this. Would it be wiser to just go with an axle-back since its just bolt on?

although the engine has a little more kick to it and sounds better im dissappointed with the way Road Race motorsports took advantage of me over $20.

I ordered the RRM Short ram intake, and their customer service representitive assured me the price for shipping and handling was $25 USD, he suggested i pay for it and they will give me a refund on the difference and i have not seen it since (2 weeks later). So a week ago i emailed the representitive about where my money was and i havn't recieved a reply yet, funny how they instantly respond when your interested in buying an item.

Another reason why im dissappointed was because in their installation video, they say they included a bit to screw on the sensor (I also did not recieve) and they called me a liar after.

I know alot of people had alot of success with RRM but i will not be shopping there anymore.

So, I finally got sick of that FUGLY factory fuse block on my Positive post. I've had a nice set of Tsunami post connectors just sitting here for MONTHS...

So,.. this is my fix... Buy a Tsunami "4-fuse" Mini-ANL connector holder. Now there's 7 actual wires connected to the fuses & positive post so BE CAREFUL!!! (By the way, I hold NO responsibility for you messing this up if you try it yourself) One of those wires goes directly to positive, 2 to one fuse, 2 to another, 1 to another and 1 to the last (ergo,.. the 4 fuse holder) TWO fuses will be 120AMP, TWO will be 80AMP. I relocated this fuse block to the little "flap" on the plastic battery tray. I trimmed the edges and drilled one hole, partially drilled the 2nd and used a wide flat washer & rubber washer for the 2nd hole holding the fuse block to the tray "flap". It's tricky, but overall when done holds well.
Due to the length of the factory cables, you cannot relocate the new fuse block too far away.

[attachment=11629:Lancer_b...rade__2_.JPG]

Good luck,..
Oh yeah,.. my reason for this is not only looks, but think about it, IF you blow one of those fuses on their stock setup, YOU'RE STUCK!! The car will HAVE to go to the dealer because it's the ONLY place to get a replacement fuse block of that type and it'll cost you a lot I'm sure.

The 120AMP mini-ANLs I ordered were hard to find so get extras. I bought 5each of the 80 and 120 Amp fuses... so I have 3 replacements IF needed.

The 09 Lancer Turbo Kit Will Be Out This Week Or Next Week For Sale!!!!


[attachmentid=8043]
[attachmentid=8044]


****SORRY I SPELT TURBO WORNG ON TOPIC****

just a quick question for anyone out there, turbo for my lancer es 2009,... good?bad? just any information would be great!

Hey im trying to figure out what exhaust i want to get for a 09 gts and i was wondering which ones would sound/work the best?

Why not just remove the airbox and just have a big open stock air filter or k&n replacement. I'm sure i could figure out a way to keep the filter in place. I cut the bottom off the airbox in a '98 tacoma i used to have and it seemed to work well and not overly loud. Anyone tried it?

I found K&N Typhoon 69-6544TS for our lancers for only $239 at Ken's Auto Wholesale - has anyone bought anything from this website before? its too good to be true, and they dont even list phone # on the website, just email address. What do you guys think?

I am debating on the K&N Typhoon, or the Injen CAI. I found a cheap place to get the K&N, but does anyone know where to get the Injen for real cheap? I'm talking about < $290

Alright, I'm going to make this a specific enough question that it's not just a repeat of other topics, I hope.

CAI vs SRI specifically on a CVT. Is there a difference in how one vs the other affects my car as opposed to a manual? Is installation more difficult for the CAI because of room issues?

I get the impression that the main ones - Injen, K&N, AEM - are bolt-on with good instructions, so I'd like to install whatever I get myself. Assuming it's not going to be a ginormous hassle because of space or what have you.

But really, I just don't know what to get for my car. XD

Hi, I'm new to the whole car scene. I've had my 09 GTS CVT since January and just recently I've done some research and plan to install an intake system. However, being in California, I'm concerned about CARB issues, what certain terms mean, how they'll affect me, and what kind of trouble I can get into if I do something wrong. I'm interested in an SRI rather than a CAI because I use the car mainly for everyday road driving, and I'm content with highway acceleration once I have my speed going. I just want to feel a little more power off the stoplights and going onto empty streets. I've looked at the K&N Typhoon, since it appears to be recommended by quite a few people on this forum. The trouble is, the manufacturer page states that it is not CARB exempt. Does this mean that it'll be illegal for me to install? Meanwhile, I've taken a look at Injen's CAI, which has a CARB exempt status of "pending". Does that mean it's still under review by the state? When will a definite answer be given?
Sorry for my lack of knowledge. I'm hoping you guys can enlighten me and help me find a solution I'll be happy with.

I know this question has been beaten to death, but I still cannot make up my mind. I can catch up or usually go ahead of people from 1st to 2nd~3rd gear,, but after that, they are ahead of me. I know the SRI is meant for bottom end torque since there is less piping for the air to travel, and the CAI is for higher rpms. Will the cold air make a noticeable difference on my top end power? Because if the cold air makes a MINISCULE difference on top end, I can just go ahead and save about $50 and get a short ram. And while on this topic, which one sounds nicer?

Short ram would be from K&N and cold air would be from Injen

Has anyone tuned the 2.0 Di-D Lancer - 2 litre PD turbo diesel engine sourced from VAG (I assume this is a European only model)?

I'm thinking of remap or tuning box options are the way to go?

Anyone done anything with one of these yet?

thanks!!!

The Spectrum Elite series exhaust is the newest addition over at Greddy and is for sure going to be a hard item to keep in stock this year. We got one of our first 08+ Lancer "SE" systems in the hands of Eric at South Florida Lancer Club (http://www.soflancer.com) and thanks to him less then 24 hours after he received it we already have some amazing shots to show what this exhaust is all about.

Link: 2008+ Lancer Greddy Spectrum Elite Exhaust







Link: 2008+ Lancer Greddy Spectrum Elite Exhaust

Well... got married, bought a house, been working on it for past 3 weeks and finally my wifey allowed me to buy my first part - Greddy Spectruc Elite. Just got off the phone with AutoCityImports and it will be at my house by the end of the week. They only have 1 more left in stock if anyone else is ineterested.

ok so it's been almost year and a half since i got my GTS and even though it has been great, and actually I feel it drives much better now than then, we all still could use some extra horses under the hood. I mean, I'm not a racer, and like I said, very satisfied with my purchase, but now that the rlliart is out there and OF COURSE the Evo it would be nice if there was something else for our cars. After all, we were the first ones to embrace the new fascia of the lancer so some kind of reward should be out there for us. I saw RoadRace has a turbo kit for about $4300, and promisses 50% hp more. That would be about 230hp, ralliart territory right there. Besides that...nothing that i've seen. Any of you guys have? some knows a guy that knows a guy who did a substantial mod to its 08 GTS? I am aaall ears.

So I just bought a brand new 09 Lancer ES and I have a couple of questions. I've been reading around and have learned that the best things to start out performance and mod-wise are exhaust and intake.

I've also been reading on which exhaust and intake would be best (or what a lot of people find the best) for a Lancer ES and that would be an Injen cold air intake which would be: http://www.autoanything.com/air-intakes/61...A0A3168670.aspx

and also an Injen SES catback exhaust which would be: http://www.autoanything.com/exhausts-muffl...1A2578A0A0.aspx

or a Greddy Ti-c exhaust

Now, the questions haha. Which would be the best to start with? (i'm a complete noob when it comes to this stuff). And i think I understand that the Greddy Ti-c exhaust is ONLY axle-back and the Injen SES is catback? Am I correct to assume this? Or am I wrong? Also, will these additions void the factory warranty?

I found theses 4-2-1 headers but Im not sure that its right for the car. the bends dont look like it will line up or maybe its a generic pic... what do you guys think?

http://dragonstailmotorsports.com/product_...roducts_id=2712

Hey guys. I have had my Lancer for two years now and was wondering when I should change my fuel filter. I just changed my air filter and I came across the fuel filter and wondered if I should change this while I am at it.

Any help would be great guys.

Anyone seen the Secret Weapon R Intake for the 08 Lancers? I found them on the Weapon R website but I can't seem to find them at any other websites. Anyone found them somewhere else that would be cheaper than ordering straight from Weapon R?

hey whats up guys im new to this forum thing, i just got a brand new 2010 mitsubishi lancer ES sport and i was wondering if the engine layouts are the same as the 09 lancers? i wanna put a K&N tyhoon cold air intake kit on my car but im not sure if it would fit? thanks

ok after much dirt on my work clothes and about an 1hr 30min later i got it installed. drove around a bit. oh my. let me say first my wife does NOT like it at all which makes it even better
but very deep. sounds very nice. Buddy from work dropped by after work to get his bluray back and my wife was coming home. I said thats her now. He smiled and said pur's like a monster lol.
he liked it a lot too.
so to anyone that doesnt want that fart can sound i would 100% say this one is for you.
and now i know how to install it. ill try and get a few pics up of the install in the next day. it was fun for sure. had to move 2 hangers which was easy once i talked to greddy in Cal. sent me instructions which didnt come with it.
Came with a Greddy silver sticker, but not sure where to put it. any thoughts or pics?

i left the foam on it till i got it all hung up and somehow ended up with a small scratch on the tip on the blue tip, which once i saw it now i always see it. Any thoughts on how to fix it or color it in a bit to hide it?

What is the most quiet and reliable SRI out there right now? I have heard of people selling their RRM V2s because they are so loud.