100k Engine Vibration At Idle Options

[jcosmejr]

My Endy is 300 miles away from the big 100k, overall it's been a good 5 years and I want to keep that run going. I have been running premium, just had the spark plugs changed, had the t-belt, waterpump, and all belts changed at 67K, transmission flushed every 15k at Mitsu. However, within the last 10,000 miles I have noticed that the Endeavor when Idle is rougher especially when the compressor kicks on but still rougher even without it. Sorta reminds me of an old 4cycl car, when cruising everything is smooth but when at a light it I feel the vibration throughout the car. When I had the sparkplugs done, I asked them to go over the truck and check the belts and anything that might need replacing and they said everything checked out okay.

I have a feeling that it's problably the motor mounts since I had to replace the one by the passenger strut due to a hellashish squeeking but I wanted to get some opinions before I went and ordered the others to what you all suggest.

[manybrews]

clean the throttle body.

[jcosmejr]

clean the throttle body.

Duh, I should have remembered you suggested that with our Montero Sports. I will work on that when I get back to the states. Thanks

[jcosmejr]

cleaned the throttle body to shiny new and still have the vibration. The other night I got to sit in the back while a friend drove and the vibration resonates through the exhaust line through the body. Especially rough when you are idle but it does not act like its going to die and the RPMS don't do anything weird. Please advise.

[jcosmejr]

cleaned the throttle body to shiny new and still have the vibration. The other night I got to sit in the back while a friend drove and the vibration resonates through the exhaust line through the body. Especially rough when you are idle but it does not act like its going to die and the RPMS don't do anything weird. Please advise.

I think it is the motor mount, got underneath it today and the mount by the tranny has the rubber cracked in half and of center. Never the less it still needed a good throttle body cleaning. I am going to order the mounts and will post outcome. Thanks

[jcosmejr]

Changed the mount and the rubber was cracked and pretty worn out. I want to say it helped some but I still feel that the truck is vibrating through the steering wheel and under the car. While I was under the truck I did not see anything odd. I really wish I could track down the problem to keep me sane until I graduate and can get the freshened up '10 outlander.

[jcosmejr]

manybrews I need your input on this question. I still have the vibration on the truck, but I started to go over the engine and I have had all the maintenance done as required except I have not replaced the radiator hoses or the coolant. So I opened the hood and looked at the hoses and they are collapsed. I am wondering if the vibration is the water pump working harder at trying to get water in the system since the vibration gets bad during cycling even with the a/c off. Either way I bought the coolant and I will stop by the dealer to get the hoses as I understand their is a differene between the '04's based on their build dates and will be replacing coolant and hoses this weekend. Thanks in advance.

[end06]

Usually when you ride your car with a bad engine mount it tends to affect all the other engine mounts, i just got my endeavor so i'm not sure how many mounts it has but open the hood and let the car idle and check the other mounts and see if you can tell where the vibration is the highest.

[manybrews]

if your radiator hoses are collapsed, its due to a failed radiator cap. The return valving is siezed shut.
replace it INSTANTLY. You are preventing the cooling system from drawing coolant back in when it contracts. Bad news.

[jcosmejr]

Your information is priceless many thanks!

[jcosmejr]

Okay I am working on finding the funding to take the truck to the dealer but I need as much advice as possible because I don't have the time nor the money to restore the truck if they are not able to pinpoint the issue. The vibration continues at idle, all of the mounts have been replaced, I replaced the radiator cap (with one from discount autoparts),and cleaned the throttle body per Manybrews instructions and also have on order new radiator hoses (which aparently changed after 12/03 build date) hoses and a mitsubishi radiator cap. When the vehicle is in motion everything is great it simply acts stupid while at idle and especially in gear (drive or reverse). For the last week I have also smelled coolant inside the truck only in the mornings before start up (I hope to god it's not the heater core) also the truck is not overheating. Would just like to have some possible diagnostics so when they call me I can feel a little more confident dumping the money in the truck.

[manybrews]

id be willing to bet your timing belt is mistimed.

[jcosmejr]

id be willing to bet your timing belt is mistimed.

Manybrews I think your right and I think the waterpump (that was supposedly changed out along with the t-belt) is failing. After changing all of the radiator hoses, fluid and changed the radiator cap as you advised (first with a discount autoparts and now an OEM mitsu) I went to change the oil and guess what? The freaking new hoses are sucked flat! So I found a credit card I had in the safe and will be going to Mitsubishi on Tuesday. I will let you know what they say to get your opinion. Many thanks and hoping for the best.

[jcosmejr]

Took the truck yesterday to the dealer finally, so far today they have said that there was air in the cooling system, replacing thermostat, and replaced radiator cap (although I had changed that out twice, the first with an aftermarket while I ordered an O.E.M.). I am a little concerned about why the radiator cap was replaced if I just replaced it, unless the air and pressure issues could have already damaged the new one? At this point I also am having them do the tranny flush for a total as of now $380.00. If this remedies the issue and no other surprises I will be quite (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blush-anim-cl.gif) . Will update as more info comes available.

[jcosmejr]

Day two came and went, and Mitsubishi called and admitted even their tech is stumped on the issue. So far from what the service adviser told me they have: Replaced Radiator Cap (which was a new OEM) and Thermostat, pressure tested the system he says that it came out ok, and did whatever tests the head gasket and it came out ok. The service adviser asked me when I replaced the upper radiator hose which is still collapsing I told him less than two months and it's an OEM, he said they are going to replace that? Manybrews, any advice or comment would definitely be appreciated as we are now going to day three with no real success.

[jcosmejr]

Picked up the truck yesterday from Mitsubishi, they replaced the thermostat, radiator cap, and purged the system of air. Today, went to go to the grocery store and guess what, the truck was idling weird opened the hood and now both hoses are collapsed again and worse than ever. I feel this is going to start to be a nickel and dime issue and would really appreciate manybrews or anyone else s theory on the idea. Now I won't be able to take the truck back until next Wed since I have to take my father out of town (obviously not in the Endeavor).

[jcosmejr]

WOW, after paying the dealer $500.00 for them to not find the problem (but that includes the 200.00 transmission flush) my father and I found the problem with the collapsing radiator hose. The problem was that the plastic coolant reservoir return was clogged up. Cleaned it out and no more collapsing radiator hose.