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Dipstick Pops Up |
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May 29 2009, 02:05 AM
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QUOTE (thomcasey @ May 28 2009, 11:23 PM)  Hmm. Is it popping up or vibrating up? Maybe try flaring the top of the dipstick tube so the dipstik "snaps" in place might do the trick. That would eliminate vibration. Unless there is something sitting in the pan knocking it out, I suppose some seafoam could clear up any blockage issues. i took some pliers and kinda crushed the tube the dipstick goes into, it was hard to push/pull my dipstick out but it still pops out. QUOTE (chain rattle @ May 28 2009, 11:37 PM)  dipsticks usually pop out when the motor has blow back or too much crankcase pressure
but you replaced the pcv already
how many miles/km on the motor
best solution is replace the dipstick with one from a wrecker/junkyard that holds in the pipe better
use a ratchet strap or cable tie so it doesnt move or falls out just about to hit 126k miles, how would i fix to much crankcase pressure or blow back?
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May 29 2009, 10:26 AM
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QUOTE (chain rattle @ May 29 2009, 03:05 AM)  re ring the motor and lap the valves but that motor is still low milage so doesnt need it well i replaced the head when i snapped my timing belt but if my valves needed to be lapped wouldn't i have low compression in the cylinders? my last compression test was 192 189 190 191 QUOTE (dorman68 @ May 29 2009, 06:40 AM)  Possible clogged or collapsed pcv sytem plumbing or hoses. what does the PCV system consist of? i know the PCV valve and the hose that goes on it aren't plugged.
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May 30 2009, 12:13 AM
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QUOTE (TrevorS @ May 29 2009, 07:38 PM)  DAYAM -- are you sure about those measurements? Even when my GSX was brand new it didn't yield readings like that! And at 123K? Your dipstick is clearly saying you have a blowby issue, and those measurements are just out of this world for a turbo 4G63 (let alone 123K miles)! FWIW -- My GSX has had about the easiest life imaginable, but at 125K, I measure 154 to 167 PSI across the cylinders. Your description just doesn't make any sense to me (IMG: style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) ! well what do you think could be wrong then? i want to try and fix this ASAP! im pretty sure those readings are right i did it a few times to each cylinder. btw, my car has 126k miles (IMG: style_emoticons/default/crying.gif)
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May 30 2009, 11:43 PM
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QUOTE (19talon92 @ May 30 2009, 01:13 AM)  well what do you think could be wrong then? i want to try and fix this ASAP! im pretty sure those readings are right i did it a few times to each cylinder. btw, my car has 126k miles (IMG: style_emoticons/default/crying.gif) Sorry, man! Unless that block has been rebuilt, I'm just unable to believe those compression readings. Even if that was originally an N/T engine (making 190 PSI easier to understand), the readings are too closely grouped for a high mileage engine. (You said you changed the head, do you have any compression readings from before that change?) In any case, are you sure the PCV valve hose is clear and likewise its plenum port? The stock breather goes from the valve cover to the intake hose before the turbo compressor. Don't know how yours is setup, but make sure there are no clogs (including in the valve cover outlet nipple. How long have you had this problem and did you or anyone else do anything to the car just before it showed up? Under what conditions does it occur? PS. I believe you said you did a leak down test. What were your results (including leak%)?
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May 31 2009, 12:46 AM
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QUOTE (TrevorS @ May 30 2009, 09:43 PM)  Sorry, man! Unless that block has been rebuilt, I'm just unable to believe those compression readings. Even if that was originally an N/T engine (making 190 PSI easier to understand), the readings are too closely grouped for a high mileage engine. (You said you changed the head, do you have any compression readings from before that change?)
In any case, are you sure the PCV valve hose is clear and likewise its plenum port? The stock breather goes from the valve cover to the intake hose before the turbo compressor. Don't know how yours is setup, but make sure there are no clogs (including in the valve cover outlet nipple.
How long have you had this problem and did you or anyone else do anything to the car just before it showed up? Under what conditions does it occur?
PS. I believe you said you did a leak down test. What were your results (including leak%)? the only compression readings i got from the old head was like 0 0 43 0 hah. ill check the hose and valve cover out tomorrow morning, i had tons of oil leaks from my car and as i fixed them the dipstick pop up gets worse each time i fixed a leak....now i fixed them all and now it wont stay down, once i start boosting it pops out. haven't done anything to the car like no mods or anything, its all stock. i haven't done a leak down test, don't know what it is and never done one before.
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May 31 2009, 03:04 AM
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Pretty much like a psi gauge, pump air in the cyl's, you have to make sure both valves are closed, so you are going to have to turn the pulley while the cars off and make sure both valves are shut and pump air into the cyl'
If the exhaust valve is stuck open or damaged, put your ear up the exhaust, you will hear air come out your exhaust, if it's your intake then you will hear it in the intake. It's kind of a pain in the ass, but it's a useful trick.
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May 31 2009, 03:32 PM
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QUOTE (19talon92 @ May 31 2009, 01:46 AM)  the only compression readings i got from the old head was like 0 0 43 0 hah.
ill check the hose and valve cover out tomorrow morning, i had tons of oil leaks from my car and as i fixed them the dipstick pop up gets worse each time i fixed a leak....now i fixed them all and now it wont stay down, once i start boosting it pops out.
haven't done anything to the car like no mods or anything, its all stock.
i haven't done a leak down test, don't know what it is and never done one before. Sorry, my misunderstanding. The Leak Down Test is a diagnostic tool for locating the primary source of compression loss in a cylinder. It can differentiate between intake, exhaust, head gasket, and blow-by, as well as provide an approximate percentage of loss. According to your mileage and the dip stick issue, I'm expecting a significant blow-by percentage reading, but you have to do the test to find out. QUOTE (19talon92 @ May 31 2009, 01:56 PM)  i have a question though about something else...when i was doing my compression test when i pulled out my spark plugs i put my ear next to the #4 cylinder and i could hear what sounded like air leaking, the spark plug was out and i hadn't put the compression tester onto that cylinder yet...is that normal????? When performing a compression test, the engine is cranked multiple revolutions and every time a piston rises, air will be pushed out the corresponding spark plug hole unless it is blocked. QUOTE (19talon92 @ May 31 2009, 02:17 PM)  omg ok i just went outside to check the hose that goes from the valve cover to the intake part before the turbo. well i pulled the hose off the valve cover and blew into it....the hose isn't plugged, then i almost forgot to make sure the nipple on the VC wasn't plugged so i blew into the other end of the hose, i could hear air leaking somewhere and when i stopped blowing into the hose air came back out of it!
i kept blowing in the hose and looking for where i heard the air coming from, then i realized its coming from my dipstick! i pushed my dipstick down hard and held it there then blew into the hose and i couldn't, if i hold the dipstick down and try to blow in it there's to much pressure and the air just goes back out the hose when i stop blowing through it.
how would i go about fixing this?
EDIT: what is the other hose on the intake go to? the one the sits below the VC one.it goes under my battery and it looks like it goes to a canister thingy. If you push air into the engine via the breather hose, it has to go somewhere, dipstick pipe seems as good as any! I would expect that hose to normally be adequate to prevent your problem, but if it's blocked at either end, it can't do its job. It sounds to me like you have sufficiently high blow-by that your engine can't rid itself of positive pressure through normal means and so you dipstick is popping. Again, I suggest a Leak Down Test in each cylinder to find out what's going on. The other nipple in the intake hose is for the Charcoal Canister Evaporation hose.
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Jun 1 2009, 09:53 AM
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Bleeds black and gold

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Drives: 1996 Talon AWD. Built, but no longer drives: 1997 mitsubishi eclipse RS; 1990 Talon AWD; 1995 Talon AWD, 1997 Talon AWD. Seems like a pattern

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QUOTE (19talon92 @ May 31 2009, 02:17 PM)  EDIT: what is the other hose on the intake go to? the one the sits below the VC one.it goes under my battery and it looks like it goes to a canister thingy. it's the charcoal canister, emissions stuff. simplest solution: run a hose from the PCV valve to a catch can. run the other hose from the valve cover to the catch can. block off the PCV nipple on the intake manifold. Block off the valve cover hose port on the intake. blowing the dipstick out is a pretty common thing. regarding the compression numbers, did you have the head decked before putting back on? what head gasket did you use? those numbers are very possible if enough material was removed from the head surface and a thinner headgasket is used
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Jun 1 2009, 05:34 PM
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of course i had the head decked it was warped remember (IMG: style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) i used a felpro head gasket from westbay autoparts. when i had the head resurfaced the guy said the head was warped 6 thousandths out of spec, after it was finished the valves just barley sit below the bottom of the head (like 1-2MM or something). hmm, i guess i could try that with a catch can then and see how it goes.
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