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Ecu Flash, by Works... que?? |
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Nov 4 2009, 11:11 PM
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Expert
   
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Location: brockport, NY -- USA
Drives: 2009 Lancer GTS (5 speed manual)

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You take your ECU out, ship it to them, you tell then what upgrades you have or what stock stuff you have, they reprogram it, then they ship it back the same day, you will probably be without a car for 2-3 days all together.
Here's the catch, they re-program the ECU for better performance, but to really keep those gains, every time you add a performance upgrade you will need to flash the ECU again, since performance upgrades change the hp/torque/fuel curves. If you're not going to add a lot of performance upgrades then the works flash is good, if you want to add all performance upgrades available and more in the future, I'd get a piggy back ecu, so you can re-tune when needed. RRM has one now, but it only does fuel mappings I believe. I'm sure you'll see more coming out soon from other manufactures. Dyno tuning is the best way to go and that requires a piggy back or a shop that will keep re-programming your ecu for you at a decent price.
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Nov 5 2009, 01:09 PM
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Senior

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Location: Amherst, MA
Drives: 2009 Lancer GTS

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I dont understand the concept of ecu flash on a non boosted car. wtf can you change much on stock maps that ECU cant change itself? Our cars have whats called a Learning ECU - in other words, by adding exhaust and intake to the car, ECU will adapt and change the map settings itself - also based on driving habits. There are limits to what it can do therefore you need a piggy back or standalone when you go Turbo.. but on an intake and exhaust, ecu learns from your MAF and O2 sensors (intake and exhaust) and changes. Background: There is something called "Ignition Advance Multiplier". It represents the average learned positive knock correction applied to the ignition maps. It's represented in 1/8th degrees increments. 1 being the lowest and 16 being the highest (1/8 to 2 degrees in absolute terms). The "happier" (knock free) the car is, the higher the number will be. The lower it is, the more knock prone it is. This number, after ECU reset ore ECU swap defaults to 8 and usually creeps up to 16 (if well mapped) through normal driving. Depending on driving characteristics, this can happen within a few hours or a few weeks. (source NASIOC - i wouldnt have worded it so well myself lol) And here's how you can skip the hours, days, weeks of learning process. Find 1/4 mile stretch with nobody around. After car is warmed up to running temps, shut the car off, disconnect NEG terminal from batterry and pump your brakes for a few seconds. After this is done, start your car and drive until you reach 2500rpm in 3rd gear - this is critical - you have to stay at around 2500rpm in 3rd gear for about 10 seconds, do not overrev the car. Barabing, you are done. If you dont believe me.. go get a dyno done before you do this and get one done after you do it (IMG: style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Nov 7 2009, 12:42 AM
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Expert
   
Group: Members
Posts: 767
Joined: 24-June 08
Member No.: 60,048
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Location: brockport, NY -- USA
Drives: 2009 Lancer GTS (5 speed manual)

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QUOTE (Lube716 @ Nov 5 2009, 09:01 PM)  Haha alright I guess the ECU flash is out of my list. Piggyback ECU anyone? RRM has one. It does fuel mappings. Cost $429 US. Comes with the software so you'll need a laptop if you want to dyno tune it or change mappings. Or just use the default mapping that rrm has set up. Before you get a piggy back, I'd get the basics first like: exhaust, light weight pulley, intake, headers, timing control box. I know you already have an intake so there's one down. I plan to do all the mods I can first (hopefully including nitrous), then get a piggy back and then dyno tune it. Like we said the stock ECU will do fine with just adding a bolt-on or two. If your thinking about piggy back, get all the mods you can get your hands on to get the maximum performance out of the money you'll spend on the piggy back.
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Nov 15 2009, 03:40 PM
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Full Member
 
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Location: Canada, Gilford
Drives: 2009 Mitsubishi Lancer SE

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I have one thing to add though. Nobody mentioned Canadian ECU's. If you by chance live in Canada -----> me. Than you have a stupid ecu, and i mean that. Our ecu does not learn" like the US lancer ecu does, nor the Japanese one. I read up alot, and Mitsubishi Canada say's theres no difference between the ecu here and in the states. But when u ad a bolt on in the states, (for example) like an injen intake, you will see a 7hp gain off the dyno. If you add one in Canada, you can actually loose HP!. Some1 contacted Mitsubishi Japan and they said the Canadian ECU and the american ECU are different. They wont tell you whats different, but they will say it is, and Canada and US will say their the same. SO i don't know wtf is going on lol.
Anyhow long story short, if u purchased your lancer in Canada, getting an ecu flash once u have a bolt on (stateside flash will work fine) it will make a big difference vs if u already live in the US.
Oh haha, and if you get a ecu flash in the states at a certified dealer. Mitsubishi Canada is not sure, yeah, IS NOT SURE, if they will warranty it. They cant say they wont and they cant said they will. I guess it depends on your car breaking down, and them saying, Hmm what would cost us more. lol I called them about it after i heard from some1 else.
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