Looking To Buy An Eclipse Options

[NRD]

Hi guys,
Im possibly going to buy an Eclipse soon but after spending many hours browsing through this forum im non the wiser on the car im looking to buy.

What are your opinions on the 16v version of the car? (I know its not as good at the GSX etc but I cant find anything better here in Sweden (Im english BTW, but living in Sweden))

What kind of engine Mods can you do to this model of car? Is it possible to squeeze a few more HP out of it?

Now this is where im REALLY confused. As i understand this is a 1g Eclipse, but I dont really understand the 420A chit-chat that goes on in these forums.

Im sorry if my post is just echoing other users. I honestly have taken time to read up on myself!

Cheers guys

NRD

[jonbonazza]

Hi guys,
Im possibly going to buy an Eclipse soon but after spending many hours browsing through this forum im non the wiser on the car im looking to buy.

What are your opinions on the 16v version of the car? (I know its not as good at the GSX etc but I cant find anything better here in Sweden (Im english BTW, but living in Sweden))

What kind of engine Mods can you do to this model of car? Is it possible to squeeze a few more HP out of it?

Now this is where im REALLY confused. As i understand this is a 1g Eclipse, but I dont really understand the 420A chit-chat that goes on in these forums.

Im sorry if my post is just echoing other users. I honestly have taken time to read up on myself!

Cheers guys

NRD

The 420a is slow as balls to start with, but can be made pretty fast for relatively cheap and the aftermarket support is pretty good also.

If your look for power, owever, your ONLY option is to turbocharge it.

[NRD]

The 420a is slow as balls to start with, but can be made pretty fast for relatively cheap and the aftermarket support is pretty good also.

If your look for power, owever, your ONLY option is to turbocharge it.

Yeah I realise this thing isn't going to beat any land-speed records, but from what I have read its a fun car to drive. At the moment im driving a 91 beat up Galant, so I would imagine I would get similar if not a bit more performance from the eclipse. Does that sound about right?

cheers for your help

[Bohman731]

people will tell you that intake exhaust and headers will make a difference but those are the people that have not turboed the car. i put a turbo on mine and it made me realize that all those NA mods are a waste of money

[NRD]

people will tell you that intake exhaust and headers will make a difference but those are the people that have not turboed the car. i put a turbo on mine and it made me realize that all those NA mods are a waste of money

Yeah I have read through the posts, cash wise going turbo is best. You get more HP for your money. Im not, however, any where near being good enough to do this. So I might over time fix with these NA mods. (BTW what does NA mean?)

I do have another question if anyone can answer. When do Mitsubishi suggest changing the cam belt on a 92 GS eclipse?

cheers

[jonbonazza]

Yeah I have read through the posts, cash wise going turbo is best. You get more HP for your money. Im not, however, any where near being good enough to do this. So I might over time fix with these NA mods. (BTW what does NA mean?)

I do have another question if anyone can answer. When do Mitsubishi suggest changing the cam belt on a 92 GS eclipse?

cheers

WOW Hold up.. You are looking at a '92 model GS? In that case, it has a 4G63, NOT a 420a. Way better motor and can go to the JY to get everything you need to turbo it for under $500. As for the Timing belt, no matter what car it is, if it has a belt and not a chain, then it should be changed every 60k miles, even if it seems to be in good condition.

[NRD]

WOW Hold up.. You are looking at a '92 model GS? In that case, it has a 4G63, NOT a 420a. Way better motor and can go to the JY to get everything you need to turbo it for under $500. As for the Timing belt, no matter what car it is, if it has a belt and not a chain, then it should be changed every 60k miles, even if it seems to be in good condition.

Ok sweet! This is exactly what I mean when I say I have very little idea on whats what with the eclipse, but im really interested to learn the ins and outs.

Wouldnt sticking in a turbo mean changing the transmission etc as the stock wouldnt be able to handle the extra power? I must admit $500 is not a lot of money. It would certainly cost more here in Sweden (like everything else) so might drive it through Europe back to England and get it fixed up.

Again thanks for your help

[jonbonazza]

Ok sweet! This is exactly what I mean when I say I have very little idea on whats what with the eclipse, but im really interested to learn the ins and outs.

Wouldnt sticking in a turbo mean changing the transmission etc as the stock wouldnt be able to handle the extra power? I must admit $500 is not a lot of money. It would certainly cost more here in Sweden (like everything else) so might drive it through Europe back to England and get it fixed up.

Again thanks for your help

No, you don't have to change the transmission, BUT With factory internals, you will only be able to run about 10psi or boost at max.

I am moving this into the appropriate section since it is not a 420a car.

[NRD]

No, you don't have to change the transmission, BUT With factory internals, you will only be able to run about 10psi or boost at max.

I am moving this into the appropriate section since it is not a 420a car.

Ok thanks for moving it.

When you say factory internals are you talking about the pistons heads and crank? I read that the pistons heads just are not strong enough to take the extra pressure, so replacing them with the heads from the equivalent engine with a turbo will do the job.

What about the ECU and/or MAF? Wouldnt the ECU need re-programming or replaced?

[jonbonazza]

Ok thanks for moving it.

When you say factory internals are you talking about the pistons heads and crank? I read that the pistons heads just are not strong enough to take the extra pressure, so replacing them with the heads from the equivalent engine with a turbo will do the job.

What about the ECU and/or MAF? Wouldnt the ECU need re-programming or replaced?

First of all, I am confused what you mean by "pistons heads". When I say "factory interals" I am refering to the pistons, the connecting rods, rod bearings, main bearings, and the crank. The crank is fine. It can support a good deal of hp and normally doesn't need replaced, but if you are going for over 10psi of boost, you will AT LEAST need to change the pistons, connecting rods, and bearings depending on your goals. If you arn't shooting for more than 400whp, then your best bet is to get the 4G63T pistons, rods, and bearings and swap them into your motor. These are good up to 400-450 whp depending on your tune. if you are shooting for higher hp goals than that, then you will need forged internals such as Wiseco, ROSS, or JE pistons; Eagle rods; ACL or Clevite bearings. If you go for the most latter option, you will also need alot of other stuff outside of internals, such as a stronger headgasket, ARP head studs, etc...

[NRD]

First of all, I am confused what you mean by "pistons heads". When I say "factory interals" I am refering to the pistons, the connecting rods, rod bearings, main bearings, and the crank. The crank is fine. It can support a good deal of hp and normally doesn't need replaced, but if you are going for over 10psi of boost, you will AT LEAST need to change the pistons, connecting rods, and bearings depending on your goals. If you arn't shooting for more than 400whp, then your best bet is to get the 4G63T pistons, rods, and bearings and swap them into your motor. These are good up to 400-450 whp depending on your tune. if you are shooting for higher hp goals than that, then you will need forged internals such as Wiseco, ROSS, or JE pistons; Eagle rods; ACL or Clevite bearings. If you go for the most latter option, you will also need alot of other stuff outside of internals, such as a stronger headgasket, ARP head studs, etc...

When I say piston heads I mean the actual piston itself. Thanks for the details though, I would prob start at 10psi boost anyways so its good to know there isn't a ton of swapping out.

[jonbonazza]

When I say piston heads I mean the actual piston itself. Thanks for the details though, I would prob start at 10psi boost anyways so its good to know there isn't a ton of swapping out.

Yea, converting from a 4G63 to a 4G63T really isn't all that hard. Just remember to get something to tune with. Depending on your goals, you could probably get away with a piggy-back device like and SAFCII.

[thomcasey]

Yea, converting from a 4G63 to a 4G63T really isn't all that hard. Just remember to get something to tune with. Depending on your goals, you could probably get away with a piggy-back device like and SAFCII.

Really? I replaced the blown turbo motor i my 92 TSi with an NA motor form a 92 GS. I am running 14lbs boost on it without issue. Though I do run minimum 93 octane fuel for the higher compression. I was under the impression that the motors were the same except for the compression ratio.

[jonbonazza]

Really? I replaced the blown turbo motor i my 92 TSi with an NA motor form a 92 GS. I am running 14lbs boost on it without issue. Though I do run minimum 93 octane fuel for the higher compression. I was under the impression that the motors were the same except for the compression ratio.

They are, but what do you think controls the CR? The pistons are differnt. And the N/A CR is 9:1 whereas the Turbo CR is like 8.8:1 or something. That's a big difference.

[4G63Attack]

They are, but what do you think controls the CR? The pistons are differnt. And the N/A CR is 9:1 whereas the Turbo CR is like 8.8:1 or something. That's a big difference.

no 1Gs are about 7.7:1 something like that. 2Gs are about 8.8:1

[jonbonazza]

no 1Gs are about 7.7:1 something like that. 2Gs are about 8.8:1

Ok, well either way, that is a big difference. lol

[thomcasey]

Ok, well either way, that is a big difference. lol

I knew they were. With the motor already having 145,000 miles on it, I know the compression is lower than new (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I run minimum 92 octane it it at all times. Not a ping to be heard. She is just temporary anyway as I am rebuilding the original 6-bolt to drop in in a year with a new tranny. That motor will get a 16G and all the fixins

[jonbonazza]

I knew they were. With the motor already having 145,000 miles on it, I know the compression is lower than new (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I run minimum 92 octane it it at all times. Not a ping to be heard. She is just temporary anyway as I am rebuilding the original 6-bolt to drop in in a year with a new tranny. That motor will get a 16G and all the fixins

The compression ratio and the cylinder compression are two entirely different things.