Ok, there have been eleventy-billion of these threads, so from now on, people are getting pointed here. then, if they have any more specific questions, they can be asked here, and we'll keep everything in one spot.

First off:

How much horsepower do you want. I'm of the opinion that anything over 350 horsepower in a front wheel drive car is fairly useless, and just creates alot of tire spin. That being said, the stock turbos from a twin turbo car will work fairly well. so will most roots style blowers, putting out about 9 lbs of pressure (boost)

Second:

Which engine. You can turbo your NA engine, or get the turbo engine and drop it in. there will be a bit more re-wiring using the turbo engine. Also, as the years progressed, the cam/crank sensors, and emissions sensors changed. so look for an engine that is around the same year as your car, if you want to make life easier. Also, California spec ECUs need more emissions stuff, which you may want to avoid, just an FYI.

The differences in the actual guts of the engines are not that big. lower compression pistons (8 to 1 versus 10 to 1 in the NAs) and less oil squirters in the block of an NA.

If you turbo your NA keep the boost lower. typically around 6 psi to start off, then you may be able to up it all the way to 12 lbs as you tune the car better. The higher compression will make more power at lower boost.

Third:

I'm assuming a Manual to Manual swap here. The auto will work, but there will be more wire splicing than I want to get into. I have never done it, either, and don't want to give out wrong info. It has been done though.


On to the Stuff you need. This is not an all enclusive list. This will get you pretty much all the way there. You need to do your homework BEFORE starting a project like this, so don't blame me if your missing a few odds and ends.

For the BEST walk through with PICS:
http://www.bobthegreat.com/pages/mycar/mods/turbo/
Other technical Questions:
http://www.stealth316.com

Stuff:

Exhaust:
manifolds from a turbo car (2) front and rear are different.
turbos from a turbo car (2) front and rear are different.
Precatalytic convertor from a turbo car(2) front and rear are different.
Downpipe from a turbo car

Intake:
All rubber and hard piping from a turbo car
Intercoolers from a turbo car. (2) left and right are different
Upper plenum from a turbo car.
Blow off valve

Front motor mount from a turbo car

Oil pan on the NA needs to be re-worked to accept oil drain lines from the turbos

Oil housing from a turbo car
Oil cooler from a turbo car
Oil lines for turbos (2) feed and (2) return lines (get new ones from a dealership. don't cheap out on this.)

Water Housing from a turbo car
Coolant lines to turbos dealer or turbo car
Radiator from a turbo car

Fuel:
fuel pump from a turbo car
fuel injectors from a turbo car
fuel injector resistor pack from a turbo car

Boost Gauge
DataLogger to monitor knock, narrowband O2s, and other variables.
Wideband O2 sensor (optional, but should have it for a project like this.)

Boost control:
run nipple on Y-pipe to a TEE, then to each wastegate actuator (about 6 lbs boost)
-OR-
manual or electronic boost contoller (user configurable 6 lbs and up)

Either: (rewiring will be neccesary either way)
ECU from a turbo car
Piggyback to re-configure NA ECU
-OR-
Both turbo ECU and piggy back to get the car running well with the correct amount of timing.

NOTE: for a NA engine with turbos strapped on it, you will NEED a piggyback, as the turbo ECU is configured for 8 to 1 compression, but the timing maps are better for forced induction on the turbo ECU.

Shameless Plug:
I would recomend the GReddy Emanage. either Blue or Ultimate. they will both correct airflow, and be able to adjust timing. They are fairly user freindly, and pretty universally known.

Also will work: Apexi S-afc, Arc 2, MAP ECU, and MAF-T.

There it is kiddies.

Also, you can sub in different parts. this is just one way down the path to forced induction.

You may want to make headers, and run a single turbo over the transmission.

You may want to go AEM full standalone to control your engine.

You may want a custom turbo-back exhaust.

There are many more options than just what is shown here.

basically just buy a turbo model in the first place :grin:

quite a usefull topic however gave turbo technics a ring and they said that they wouldnt turbo my GTO MR. something to do with how finely tuned it is already and that they might ruin an ltd edition car.

if your after more power -might aswell sell it and get a tt then

mike

i was wondering is it posible to turbocharge with a single turbo an automatic base model?

and will u need the same requirments?

single turbo itself means custom headers... and the SOHC exhaust is a bit different, so you'll be out on your own here. It will have to be custom made.

Also, the sensors are different on the SOHC. So the ECU swap won't work as well unless you plan on doing re-wiring. You should be able to get a piggyback fuel controller to work, though.

my engine is a DOCH... its a 95 base model...

well then knock yourself out. I can never remember when they switched the base models to the SOHC engine.

There is one guy that turbocharged his NA engine... the 10 to 1 compression means you should keep the boost lower... like around 7 or 8 psi, until you KNOW it's safe to go higher, but it's doable. There are actually not that many differences in the engine between the turbos and NAs...

i just had to undo a turbo mod in a 92. it turned into a disaster. the guy didnt listen to me and went and had a mater technician try to install a turbo engine in his car. all in all after 3500 dollars later and the car wasnt even close to even thinking about running i had to yank it all back out and turn it back to stock. my personal opinion if you want a turbo car is to buy an origional turbo car. its alot cheaper and less headaches.

If you have the knowledge and are willing to do the research, it will probably only cost you about $1500 to turbo an N/A car, if you are wanting to swap a turbo motor into it, you should just buy a complete motor off of ebay with ecu and wiring harness. I feel bad for you guys $3500?? you got ripped off.... people do this all the time, there is plenty of experience on this topic. but like ttangel said in the first place, 350hp is about the most useful hp for a FWD car...

Superchargers.... I highly dont reccomend it, I have a lot of friends that have these, one friend has a supercharged one and I can beat him like it's nothing and he is running like 12psi of boost, with alky injection, and he's spent about 5-6k on getting his car running to the best of it's capability... on the other hand, my other friend has a fwd tt (motor from a VR4) and he is running 13psi of boost and he can beat me pretty bad, both of them are fwd, so naturally on the track, I would easily outrun either of them, but i'm just giving you fair warning, you can buy a tt engine for about $2k-$2500 and it will be a lot easier and more people have covered that ground, you can get the supercharger for about the same price, without any engine or anything, just the supercharger, it's a no-brainer to me, plus, the s/c kid had to cut his timing covers to make room for the belt, and had to move the brake fluid line from the reservoir b/c the belt was hitting it and burned a hole in it, and the belt can never be tight enough, it always slips

There's this single turbo kit that was made recently. Does anyone know a bit more about it?

http://www.boosthead.com/product.php

check that out if ur interested in supercharging your car. he claims its direct bolt on but i've been pondering about purchasing it or not...

Has anone made a kit that you can use to take out the A/C compressor and bolt in a supercharger in its place?

i've got the 98 base model SOHC and was looking into a VR-4 swap. i've checked it out on ebay. what kind of money am i looking at front to back, and how much life do i take off the car by doing this?

Don't even bother.

The SOHC model is baser in every way. You'd need to prettymuch start from the ground up and replace everything but the body panels. You'd be better off finding a VR4 with a blown engine, tranny or transfer case and fixing it up.

So I have a 95 sl and I know it is a little bit closer to the vr-4. what would i need to do to TT it? and does any one have any idea as to where I can get any of the things i need?

If your serious, shoot your self, if your not still, shoot your self. Then if you still are alive repeat step one.


Read the first post!

P.S. you have a totally different chassis.

Edit: the post this was in reference to is gone. <_<

fiesty! haha :gunsmilie:

So, I'm working with a tech college grad friend of mine on weird ways to get forced induction. Expect a prototype in the next six months. I need something to do this winter.

so just wondering would there be any differences between years for peices, like headers, turbos, ecu, or can you just stick any old year of stuff?