Hi gnewt,

please let me know how u resolve your problem. i think my situation will be like yours in some time from now i am sure.. so your moves will help..

Shree

ECU and sensor problems
Does mitsubishi have a fixed or its free policy?
see if they give you a warranty or guarrentee on the part they fit !

I have a 94 Diamante ES that as of last week has the check engine light come on after about 5 minutes of driving and then goes off after 30 seconds upwards to 3 - 4 minutes. The vehice runs fine even with the light on and I don't have any strange noises coming out from under the hood. Any ideas what this might be? Also it has come on even after driving it for about 30 minutes, but even then the light goes off after a minute or so. The car has 168K the O2 sensor was replaced about 3 years ago and I really don't know what else it would be.

Thanks in advance

keep an eye on all the levels under the hood

could be just your battery on the way out
i have heard that the light can come on at low voltage
could be anything electrical on that model sensor to who knows what

wait till next service if she runs ok till then

if this keeps going we will have a page 3 :beer:

Hi all,

My Observation is that the idle speed drops when the fan next to radiator switches on by itself . its goes down by about 100 rpm til the fan is On and as the fan goes off the idle speed goes back to norma.. Any suggestions on that ?


Dirty hands, if not this post we try and bring some topic into discussion common to all. then we will all make sure thats thats the biggest post any forum has ever seen.. :57: .

shree

this is true The biggest and most informative :banana:

see in another post in this forum where the fellow from america
burned up the ECU

gee something has to be wrong with his car

now your idle drops when the electric fan comes on
i have no idea :grouphug:

Any extra load on the engine such as turning on the airconditioning will do this if there are idle problems. It could be due to a dirty throttle body, a faulty Idle Speed Control Servo or other problems.

To clean the throttle body remove the air hose going into it when the engine is warm, block with pieces of rag the 2 ports at the bottom to stop dirt going down there and spray into the throttle body with CRC Carburettor cleaner. A bit of a rub where you can reach at thiis stage may help. Remove the 2 pieces of rag, re-assemble, run the engine for 5 minutes and then repeat several times.

To check the Idle speed control servo you need a multimeter. The servo is on the lower side of the throttle body towards the firewall and accessible when the air hose that you removed for cleaning is off.

If you disconnect the loom going to it you see 6 terminals in 2 groups of 3 beside each other like this:

l l
l l
l l

(Edit: I tried to put spaces betwwen each group of terminals ie between the l's but the board software wont show them)

Each group of 3 is attached to a coil, 2 ends and a connection towards the middle. On mine the resistance between the top and bottom terminals of a group was about 87 ohm with the middle terminal about 32 ohm and 56 okm to each end. Both coils should be the same. On mine 1 coil had one end burnt out ie 32 ohm to the centre from one end and open circuit for the other half and open betwwen the 2 ends. When I went to a wrecker for another I found quite a few the same so I feel it is a common fault. If yours is faulty you will need to replace the servo.

Mine is a 1993 TR V6 Magna but the 4 cylinder ones have the same servo. On earlier models the coils are 60 ohm tapped at 30/30 ohm.

There are probably other faults that give the similar idle problems but the 2 above are the ones I have experienced.

Be sure to check all the non efi possible causes of poor idle such as dirty plugs, vacuum leaks, ignition timing etc.

Rob

how do i check for vacuum leaks ? rather where do i look for. The ignition timing: how is it checked ?

Shree

Hi guys,

I have a 1995 Magna TS V6 with similar problems. Car would appear to miss whilst driving, and check engine light would come on, plus control relay would also activate (clicking noise on left hand side of dash). I have a good mechanic firend who did full diagnostic, both with ECU fault readings, and also engine analyser. ECU reported nil fault codes, even though problem occurred in workshop, and analyser showed ignition system to work fine.

Another friend suggested changing the control relay, so I obtained a spare and replaced it. The Magna hadn't been started for about 3 weeks, and I had to disconnect the battery and recharge prior to restarting. I have replaced the control relay, and now the car won't start at all.

So I have removed the ECU, and will get it checked to see if faulty.

Problem is, visual inspection of the ECU board looked perfect, no capacitor leaks, or evidence of overheating. I have a suspicion that fault is not in ECU, but I will let you know.

Any recent comments would be appreciated.

cheers

Mack

ok guys hows this sound have you ever bothered to check the engine relay fuel injection relay under the centre console

where is this located exactly ..??

Hello: Iwas offered a cheap magna 92 from a neighbour, car had good service history, well looked after, basically he just wanted to get rid of it as hed retired and bought himself a wicked new beast... So I pay for it, take my kids for a ride and when I started the car the light goes for a second. Then off. We turn round the corner, we hear click, click and this blue smoke starts pouring out from under the dashboard, and the car stops. Pushed out of the road, and tried to start and it would crank but no start. Then wouldn't even crank. I'd been told that the transmission comp had a lsmall fault, bit all what meant was that the car was sluggish on starting, and it was "only on three gears", but it was only for the power gears, that drive was ok, and basically it was good for small trips, A to B, drop kids off and stuff. That the transm comp, may or may not go... so i go back to the lads house, called roadside mechanic, he said could be something with the "drive" computer, tow it home, take it to electrician. My neighbour very nicely gave me my $ back, but dont know what to do now... He don't want to spend any $$ on it, I have lots of kids and more on the way and cant afford an expensive repair (defeats the purpose of a cheap car)
Question is.. can these computers be replaced from a wreck..?
I've had some experience with cars (ie older cars, can usually replace parts, but dont have specialist equipment..
Are these parts expensive?
I it worth buying, or should it just be wrecked?

:banana: Gday to you folk Im new to the forum and just want say Hi. Re the question the cost of an ECU. I just had one replaced in my 92Magna elite, cost me $650 including labour.
regards
Cobenster