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| ravenx2c |
Mar 13 2006, 11:49 AM
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Newbie
Group: Members
Posts: 9
Joined: 21-July 05
Member No.: 12,743
Location: Traded up! Bought a Subaru STi
Drives: 2007 Subaru STI Obsidian Black Pearl! Status: OFFLINE

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I had a dealer put a new clutch in for me and they put some piece of crap OEM in and its not even 1 year later and its slipping. I have decided to screw it and keep the car and put a in either a SPEC StageII or an ACT both can be seen on Clutch City and both are Mitsubishi Racing Clutches. I am only pushing out about 250HP on mine but I want the heavy duty clutch for long life. I'm not a clutch dropper but I am heavy footed to say the least. Can anyone shed a little light on the 2 clutches and if so whats the difference between the 4,6, or the disc pad in that model. The SPEC Stage II is a Kevlar based and I am thinking of going that route. Im open to any input.
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| TTAngel |
Mar 13 2006, 02:07 PM
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Wing Nut
   
Group: Members
Posts: 935
Joined: 16-June 05
Member No.: 10,897
Location: Green Bay, WI
Drives: 1995 Dodge Stealth RT/TT Status: OFFLINE

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QUOTE(red97gst @ Mar 13 2006, 12:25 PM) racing clutches are not designed to last longer, in fact they don't last as long as OE clutches. +1. Most racing clutches are made to grab hard, but be short lived. this is the problem with needing to hold xxx amount of torque. in fact, most of these "racing clutches" are just stock disks mounted on a pressure plate that has been revised for more clamping force. Also, racing clutches will give you a much harder time engaging the clutch. possible chatter, and/or general funkiness when just driving around. take your average six puck clutch. grabby? yes. Long life? no. you have to just about clutch drop the things off the line, worse when at a stop sign going up a hill. Pick a clutch suited for your needs, not to tell have a racing clutch. As far as your choices, I don't have much experience with the ACT clutches, but the 3000GT/Stealth spec II clutches are notorious for being short lived. I would stick with a full face disk for your car. But that's just me. If you feel you need a stage II, or six puck, go for it. I'm not your mother. I don't feel respondsible for how you spend your money.
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| TTAngel |
Mar 13 2006, 02:28 PM
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Wing Nut
   
Group: Members
Posts: 935
Joined: 16-June 05
Member No.: 10,897
Location: Green Bay, WI
Drives: 1995 Dodge Stealth RT/TT Status: OFFLINE

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QUOTE(ravenx2c @ Mar 13 2006, 02:17 PM) Thank you wingnut for the very helpful input. red97gst if you want to just see yourself post, build your own forums. I asked for advice like that which was offered by wingnut. I guess I should have said I'm open to any mature input, that which I thank wingnut for once more. red97gst isn't a bad guy. We're just too used to beating off the newbs with a billy-club. espeically in the Racing section. It gets thick in here at times. If you search around, you'll find me being a bass-turd to a few people... Also, I missed the part in your post about the differences between clutch types. A full face disk is just that. a full circle with pad all the way around. these tend to not grab as well as the pad clutches. They do have the added benefit of having little springs that help absorb the shock as you ease into the clutch. The pads, or pucks, as I referred to them, look like flowers, if you will. a 4-pad has 4 pads around the outside of the central mounting hub, the 6-pads have 6. nothing earth shattering there. They are typically set up to grab harder, but are more of an "on-off" type clutch... in other words, they are very difficult to slip, and very easy to snub the engine/burn out at a stop sign. Definitely not for a beginer clutch driver. I never really liked the way the puck clutches felt, or the chatter that comes with them. But once again, that's just me.
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