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Glow Plug Timing, Glow Plug glow timing
| L2004x4 |
Dec 16 2006, 10:44 AM
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Newbie
Group: Members
Posts: 3
Joined: 15-December 06
Member No.: 32,879
Location: Honduras
Drives: 1990 L200, 4x4, 4D56 Status: OFFLINE

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Glow plug timing is controlled by the resistance of a two-prong sensor which is located in the front of the engine, right in the thermostat box. If that resistance increases, so does the timing.This can be tested by unplugging the sensor, thus telling the system it has an infinite high resistance, and checking that the dash indicator will take longer to change from red to green.But, even after the indicator changes, the glow plugs will remain activated, while you crank the engine, to reduce the amount of unburned fuel white smoke. The glow plug are deactivated by means of the alternator light, which indicates that the engine is running. I learned this the hard way a time when the alternator stopped working and I noticed the glow plug indicator remained on after engine was running, and that burned all 4 of them!. White smoke and rough idel after a cold start might also be an indicator of an injector not holding pressure and leaking overnight, or partially clogged. Best shot is to remove injectors and have them tested at any reputed diesel shop. Once you have them there, it's a good chance to decide uf you want them calibrated "tight", for better fuel economy, or "loose" for better pickup from dead starts. I have mine set tight, and get over 30Mpg on city driving with A/C on most of the times, and there is no black smoke on the tailpipe like other Mitsus I have seen. Hope this helps!!
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| L2004x4 |
Mar 30 2008, 12:21 AM
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Newbie
Group: Members
Posts: 3
Joined: 15-December 06
Member No.: 32,879
Location: Honduras
Drives: 1990 L200, 4x4, 4D56 Status: OFFLINE

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Black smoke usually it's and indicator of excess of unburned fuel, which in turn might be and indicator of at least 1 faulty glow plug. Sometimes, instead of burn and remain as an open circuit, a glow plugs might develop a "bulge"on the tip which creates a short directly to ground, which may cause the unusual "clicking"of the relays. Best shot is to remove the piece that conects the plugs togheter and test the plugs one by one, by slightly touching them with a thick (10gauge) automotive wire connected to the positive of the battery.Then pay attention to the intensity of the spark it creates, a "normal" spark indicates a good plug, no spark means a dead plug, and a huge spark means a shorted plug, which, in most of the times also causes the wire to try to stay "stuck" to the threaded tip of the plug. If you determine that one of plugs has gone south, exercise extreme caution in the removal, since sometimes, if the have the "bulge" I mentioned earlier, they might broke, leaving a portion of the tip stuck in the pre-chamber( the hole is really tight, there is no much room for anything but the tip itself)which can be only removed by taking the head out(yes! costly and complicated!!) and most of the times, once the head is removed ans sitting on the workbench, it simply requires a couple of gently taps with a appropiate sized nail and a hammer.In really bad cases, the glow plug might even broke flush with the hole in the head, at the beggining of the thread, when you are trying to remove it, which is much more dificcult to fix. Hope this helps! Luck in your troubleshooting!
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