Does anyone know what kind of engines if any can fit with little motification to the pickup? I have put two 2.6 in my little prized pick-up and now I am lookling to up grade or use a more relible choice. Thanks

I'm wondering the same thing, more specifically, would any of the Fuso turbo diesel engines fit? Imagine 175 turbo diesel horsepower in a mighty max, I've seen even the 6cyl Fuso engines in person and they're nearly the same size as a V6 Mighty Max engine, but even the 4cyl engines would be more than enough power. I'm sure it would require much cutting, mount/driveshaft fabrication, and would be an electrical disaster...but, boy would that thing rip! Could even run on biodiesel!

I own a 1990 Mighty Max, with a 4G64 Engine.. I have heard of mods/swaps using a Hyundai 4G63 and also heard of a swap using a 4G64T( IIRC), and some Sirius Turbo charger.

I have also considered doing some fine tuning and high performance mods to an existing 4G64, or 4G64T.

Mine has the multiport fuel injection setup, not the throttle-body. So it is a little more difficult to mess with the intake than if you had a Throttle Body.

To increase performance, there is really little you need to do to the engine. With a Stock setup, you can push 125 mph through it (standard tranny).

Stock, and in good condition, you can get anywhere from 140 horses to 160 horses out of it.

With some modifications I have calculated a possible increase to 200 HP.

Cold Air induction.
Cold Air induction, provides a more dense air/fuel mix, allowing for 2-5% better compression.. oh, yeah.. doesn't seem alot when you are a 6-cyl or even an 8-cyl engine, but to a 4-cyl SOHC, its is. Moving along those lines, if you are able to get your hands on the 4G63 DOHC model engine, you can push that to nearer 8% increase, just going to Cold Air..

Several designs exist to modify your standard air intake to Cold Air.. All are pretty custom jobs.

Next. Look at your transmission and rear-end.
Transmissions and Rear-Ends, pay a big part in power on 4-Cyl cars. The stock mighty max has a "Tortion" differential... well, sort of.. its a limited-slip diff, that provides equal traction, when one side slips, the other does not spin as fast, its more designed for Torque, than speed.. but is a happy and tough rear-end.
The transmission is pretty tough too. The clutch assembly, however, sucks... its more of a hybrid/mechanical clutch, and is a B***H to work on.
My work on this, is to replace the mechanical, with a hydrolic one and replace most of the clutch-plate assembly.. For you automatic folks out there.. yer on your own there..

Modding the configuration of your engine, is pretty in depth, if you are looking at sticking some power under the hood, and compensating your tranny with good componants, I would suggest looking into the 4G63 configuration, toss a turbo-charger on there. (Watch that tho!!! Some sumps are a little deep, and you may have to do some modifications to your pan)

Custom Pistons, CAMS. for your engine would be the next step. I devised a setup to go from the 2.4L to a 3.0L canted.. With a SOHC dont try it.. there isnt enough room, with the DOHC, there is. Lengthen your strock, mill the heads, probably have to mill the block tops too, oversize your CAMs, IIRC, the DOHC has a 1.9608, pushing it to a larger 2.016 ratio should give you a little more valve opening space to get more air in their. With the mutil-port injected model, it doesnt really make a big difference on the fuel.. just remember to put oversized injectors in, and tune them to release for 3.0L.. (The Mitsubishi Diamante 3.0L ECU is a good choice for that) or the Galants.. either/or.. Ya just need some more fuel capacity/discharge on your injectors. For those with carbs.. just increase your valve spacing/opening, since if you put a oversized cam in.. its pretty automatic... just dont make it TOO deep, or you'll bang the piston head on your valves.. ( mind your valve indentions on the piston heads too)..

Pretty much, there are quite a few custom mods out there. But just think first.. Engine gives you put a fraction of your performance, look at your transmission and rear-ends as well.. oh.. and a side-thought.. don't put GLASS PACKS on it.. they suck.. Best to find someone that can make you a custom duel exhausts, with and opened port "H" that crosses the pipes AFTER the catalytic converter(s) and before the Muffler..

You'll get a lower pitched rumble, and a good deal of power from that too.. Instead of "sounding" like you do.. you will be able to "back it up" as well.

I dont have any write ups or "how toos".. I do it by sound, feel and MATH.. and contrary to what most people think.. MATH never lies.... as long as the variables and numbers are correct, and you follow the rules.. Math always pays off in the end.

Right now, I am messing with a FIAT, 124 spider, with an 1800cc engine. ( no... not the MG look alike, with the pissing 1600cc, the BIG 124.. convertable, with the back seat one)..

The mighty max is one TOUGH **** little truck.. I have had mine for 17 years now, 192,000 miles on it.. and after reading some mod stories.. I decided to start designing my own mod...

What I have stated here, I have not done all of it yet.. but research your ideas, make up a plan.. and grab yourself a repair manual..

Don't just look at the engine... look at the tranny and rear too..

This may have no bearing whatsoever on what you want, but on dsmtalk.com, there ia a few guys with modded 4G's and to be honest, one that is taking a similar approach that I have outlined here.

there is alot of debate between na setups and turbo. (Natural Aspiration)..

Turbo setups can really eat into your bottom line.. and do not always make you faster. A good clean and precision design, like what I have outlined, would probably be more OOMPH than tanking your engine and making it turbo..

Turbocharged can give you a good feel, but there is a balancing act on that when it comes down to Maintenance and Calibration... It can chew through some of your other componants as well. You'd have to replace alot of existing componants, i.e. water pump, rear mains, transmissions.. not all "bolt" on well with a turbo, nor do they last long..

My best suggestion is to go through DSM talk, a good post there about a guy that did some fine tuning of his engine, a 4G64, and made the most out of it, and even clocked the high speed for a min-truck in North Carolina at some LSR event.

Okay.. again, dont just look at the engine... Keep your head and patience, do the math.. It all adds up to a good engine, WITHOUT Turbo..

Once done and your beautiful engine is revealed, youll eat those turbo's for breakfast. I saw 2 Eagle Talons, gsx turbo's, get their little rear tail lights handed to them, by a stock, precision-tuned 2.6L non-turbo... Eclipse.. fwd, NT..

so, turbo isn't for everyone.. start simple.. and fine tune what you have.. polish up your crank, grind out your cam.. maybe a better lifter config, put some custom pistons in, clear up the rings, and fine tune your ECU for oversized injectors.. maybe a resistor pack for the injectors too.. reduce your heat.. keep the engine fuel temp, cool.. dont want it to pre-ignite in the cyclinders...

I need to get a service manual for a 1990 Mighty Max. Anybody have a link?