have you replace the fuel filter? any kinks in the fuel lines? any leaks in the system?

yes on the filter no leaks or fuel line problems

Hey guys, my 1990 eclipse non-turbo, just recently started having trouble starting. It has a new battery and a new alternator. When i leave the car sitting while im at work or over night it starts up just fine, but if i drive a few places and turn it off and on a couple of times within a shorter period it wont start and i have found myslef bump starting the car in several parking lots. It doesnt crank at all, i just here a humming noise which sounds like it may be coming form the starter, I am thinking that it might be the starter solenoid, got any suggestions?

:00000732:

it's possible that the starter is going bad. it sounds like when it gets hot it doesn't like to work. take it to a garage like Sears and they can test it for you.

fuel pressure regulator was bad alowing to much gas running fine now

feel stupid asking this, but where is the fuel pump relay? I've narrowed it down to a cluster of four little boxes on the firewall on the driver's side. but which one of those is the one i'm looking for? i read somewhere it was the closest to the outside of the car, but before i go pulling and plugging, i'd like to be sure.

sup all, new here and just wanted to post this if any1 can shed some light based on experience or what not.

I just had a new 4g63 engine put in my 2g GSX. We drive it so the ECU could relearn. Next day, won't start, cranking but no start. So we clean the spark plugs and car would start fine. That worked for 'bout 2 days then it developed a habit of starting only towards mid day when the sun comes out, in other words cold=no start. Car's also blowing black smoke and idling and running a lil bit rough (although im blaming that on the new motor?) , and diagnostic says something's wrong with the MAF sensor.

So we clean the connections, same thing, car wont start next morning. Car starts when temp gets warmer, we clean plugs (looking black as hell) before starting though, and we drive it again for relearning (still blowing black smoke). Oh yah, the intake is loud as hell too (comparing with the old engine set-up), dunno if it's normal (FIPK).

We're running out of ideas so maybe some1 knows something before i go out and buy a $200 MAF sensor. Thanks

im also having problems starting my 90 1g gst .. ive replaced spark plugs wires battery bypassed the switch cuzz i turn the key and nothing happens but if i bypass with my new 4$ pushbutton it wants to turn over ... but i get no gas or spark..... im replacing the fuel pump soon ive lready got it ordered... cuzz the car was sitting up for about 4-5 years.... ive replaced the coil pack also... and all it might be is a fuel relay sensor? not the ECU/M?.... also where can i find the fuel injection relay? the only store ve been able to find that can get ahold of one is napa and they calle the mitsubishi dealership to find out it was 74 dollars... what happened to really cheap?

My car did something similar to that. The negative battery terminal was corroding for a while, so baking soda cleared that up. But then it was doing it again with no corrosion. When I looked at it closer the metal of the terminal head was breaking down and I had to clean it out with a paper towel every now and then.

We have a 93 Laser with the 1.8 and there isn't any spark (new distributor) but fuel is getting to the fuel rail. Does anyone know what else could be besides the Fuel Pump Relay?

Hey guys, well i have read through a lot of stuff and havent found my issue on here anywhere yet. So here goes:

-1998 Eclipse GS with the 420a motor - i think, i'm a honda guy, this is my first DSM, its a 2.0 DOHC non turbo with the timing belt on the passenger side.

A week ago the timing belt broke drive at 60, bent every valve but 1. Bot a whole new motor with only 66,000 miles on it. Now heres where i screwed up...

Motor came out of a 95-96 eclipse

i took the head off my car, and then replaced it with the head of the new motor i just got. After a little while, i notice the coil pack and the crack sensor plugs are different, so i used my old ones.

I also used the old headbolts and the old rocker arms. The only reason i did this, is the head with the bad valves was basically brand new.

Anyways, i got the wild hair up my butt and put the cams in before the rocker arms - not the smartest decision of my life.

i had to press the lifters down one by one to put the rockers back in.

Then i'm not sure if i times this right, i couldnt find the right specs in my book, but then i went out got the right book and think i have this right:

i have the 2 cam gear dowl pins facing up, and the marks facing together on the inside, and the the cranks lined up.




Now, everything is put together, and everything looks fine, timing is perfect - if thats the way it goes - dowl pins up, timing marks together, and the words upside down

But when i crank it over, it sounds like the timings off, and i cant figure it out. I have had 2 different mechanic friends come over and look at it, and neither of them can figure it out either. Everyone says it should be running right now.

Again the basics are i put a 1995 or 1996 head on my 1998 block, it has 98 rocker arms 98 cam sensor, 98 coil pack, 98 head bolts, 95 or 96 cams, lifters, head, cam gears etc.

ANY IDEAS? i am so exhausted from this it aint even funny, but if i go more than a few more days without this car i'm gunna lose my job, so any help would be appreciated.

I can get pictures, small video clips, whatever you think you might need to help me, just let me know

Ryan
612-328-8019
FRAOverby@aol.com

BTW: i have fuel pressure, good spark, everything. Its like i have it completely timed wrong, but from what i have read, it seems like its perfect.

So again, any ideas woudl be great

two things i can think of off the top of my head. when the timing belt breaks and pistons smack valves, not only does it damage valves, but in most cases it screws up piston too. BUT if the pistons are fine and youve got good compression, then the next problem is what year eclipse you pulled the motor from. if you pulled it from a 95 thats pre-OBD2, im about 99% positive nothing will work unless you get the ECU from the 95 eclipse. did you check your pistons for damage? and what year EXACTLY is the eclipse you pulled from.

the pistons should have been replaced or filed. like Cody said, when pistons hit valves they make gouges in the top of the pistons. these gouges have high spots and when the high spots heat up they can cause detonation.

can you post a pic of the cam gears in alignment? how tight is your timing belt? what exactly does it do when you crank it, you said it sounds like it wants to start? does it chug, pop, sputter? what does it sound like when it cranks? does the starter sound like it is working too hard?

well i got the motor from a junk yard, they told me it was a 95-96 motor, couldnt tell me the exact year, well not yet, he told me to call him back tomorrow.

When i try to start it, it sounds like its got a broken timing belt, but if i hold the gas wide open, with no intake, just the intake manifold, i can hear it trying to start, and if i let it sit there and crank for about 2 minutes, it will start to try harder.

I had a few backfires out of the intake manifold. The picstons were in good shape, and were filed to be perfect again.

Like i said, not sure on the motor year, maybe it helps by explaining the plugs on it, maybe not:
The coil pack plug and the crank sensor plug were completely oval style. the plugs on my motor are squareish with round corners. does that mean anything to you guys?

is there an easy way to fin out what year the motor came from, if this is a pre obd2 motor?

BTW: the starter sounds normal, not weak or strong

it definately sounds like it is out of time. did you take the engine out and apart to file the pistons? you may have forgotten to hook something up.

how tight is the timing belt? did you put the 95 head on your 98 block keeping everything else 98?

I didnt do the piston part, my old boss did - hes been a mechanic for 20 some odd years.

Timing belt it as tight as it should be, doesnt feel over tight or under tightend

yes, its a 1995 head - i figured that out today, ontop a 1998 block, everything else is 1998. Well here:


1995 Parts:
-head
-lifters
-valves
-cams
-cam gears
-oil sending unit

1998 parts:
-head bolts
-rocker arms
-coil pack
-cam shaft sensor ( bolts onto the exhaust cam )
-ecu
-everything else in the car


Does that help at all? Now that i know its a 1995, how do i figure out if i need the ecu out of the otehr car or not? can i just go get the other ecu and try it without hurting anything?

I'm not an electronics guy, so i dont know a lot about that area.

Later tonight i'm going to take pictures, and maybe a small video clip so you guys can help me a little bit more.


BTW: your guys' help is beyond appreciated, if i knew you in real life i would be taking you out for beers or something. Thanks a lot..

you don't need a 95 ECU since all of the sensors are still 98.

did you remove the cam gears from the cams at any point? on the back of the exhaust cam where the cam position sensor is there is a black piece that is magnetized. did you use the little magnet from your 98 or did you keep the 95 magnet on there? if the one from the 95 is still there. remove it and put the one from your 98 cam on.

Yes the gears got removed, the black magnet is the 95 magnet, so i will try to change that.

ANy other ideas? or questions?