I went to Sears and they charged me $15 for a brake evaluation. How do I know if what they are saying is true? Does anyone here know how to read the brake analysis? I know I need brake work because I have vibrations in the steering wheel at 50 mph as well as when I hard brake. Also, my brakes usually squeal right before the car stops (at lowest speeds like when I am parking). But still, knowing you need brake work does not mean you know how MUCH brake work. Is this a $100 job, $300 job, $500 job, or $750 job?

Here's the brake analysis Sears gave me.

For front pads, it said "mfg min spec" for pads is 079, and my pads are actually 180 but the comments were "suggest front pads pitted, hardware".

Regarding my rotors, it says "machine to" 880 but that my actual is 922 right and 916 left. "Runout" spec is 002 but actual is 009 right and 012 left; the comments were "Required front rotors hard spot". For my bearings, it says "nondrive" and "pressed".

For my rear brake shoes, it says "mfg min spec" is 039 and mine are actually 130 right and 128 left. The comments were "Suggest shoes pitted"

For my rear drums, "machine to" is 8071 and my actual is 8008 right and 8008 left. "N/S" for "runout spec", actual is 005 right and 001 left. My bearings are "nondrive" and "bolt on hub". Comment on the drums is "suggest cut drums, pitted".

Does anyone know how to interpret this? How do I know they're not just trying to upsell me on a brake job that I don't need? Can you tell from this information what I really need to do versus what I would ideally do if I was a millionaire?

They told me to replace the front pads and rotors, replace the rear shoes, use new hardware for the brakes, replace brake fluid, and service the emergency brake.

Ok, first off, they are trying to make money by selling parts. Your rotors can be machined, just not past the specified limit. Your shoes really won't need to be replaced until 80K miles or so. The only reason you need to replace your brake hardware is if it is loose or broken. If anything is pitted, then yes, machining is the best way to go. On a FWD vehicle, you will feel the fronts the most, especially with drum rear brakes. Servicing the emergency brake is a good idea when it's seized or after every 30K miles.

When I sell brakes, I go by sound and feel first. If nothing occurs, I then put the vehicle in the air and inspect it with a mirror and a flashlight. I am good enough now where I can give an estimate on percentage/miles based on the pad wear.