Hi, I am new to the forum this is my first post and I have been researching on buying a single turbo for my 00 Eclipse GS, I have read the pinned topic about upgrades and it suggests to get the tearstone kit but the site doesn't seem to have turbo's, I realize that the pinned topic is a bit dated and he might not carry them anymore. Also i have found another kit at Vision Imports The RPW turbo kit, and I would like to know if it is a good kit also that site has stage 1 and stage 2 turbo's for this car and i'm wondering if that means the size of the turbo and how much torque it can produce, so in that case is stage 2 the way to go? Thank you for any insight on this.

Can anyone help me on this??

Yes, the RPW kit is a good kit.

As far as Stage 1 vs. Stage 2, it usually means more horsepower will be produced by the kit. But, it also means that your car has been upgraded to handle extra horsepower.

but its true that tearstone doesnt sell the turbo kits anymore??

It also means bigger/stronger parts AND more of them.

heh so is anyone out there selling there turbo?? I'm tryin not to have to pay the 2800 for it

"heh so is anyone out there selling there turbo?? I'm tryin not to have to pay the 2800 for it"

I'm not selling mine but I just purchased a turbo kit from www.importperformanceparts.net for less than the listed price. I asked if they gave a military discount and they said no but we can sell it to you at a dealer price for $2230 instead of $3225. I didn't have to do any convincing even though I really am in the military...Not that I'm trying to tell anyone to lie lol. I'll have pics soon as I get the kit. It's mounted on the rear bank and uses your stock exhaust manifold to connect the other side. Check out http://www.club3g.com/forum/showthread.php?t=72702 for a current pics

thanks, I read that whole post and it seems to be a good kit, though the website to buy it at says its for a V6 everyone on the thread said it was meant for a 4 cylinder, am I correct, so if i was to purchase it I would be getting te one they sell for the V6?

The turbo kit that you are purchasing is for a Galant/Eclipse V6 6g72 3.0 Engine. So yes it for our engine not for the 4 cylinder. The person on that forum didn't have a pic of the 6 cylinder so he used a 4 cylinder example. I have personally talked to the sales people directly and it will fit on our car. You will need your stock front manifold but everything else should be bolted with no mods. I just recieved the kit and will be taking many many detailed pictures for all my eclipse enthusiast within 2 weeks from now. Also, I just came across a very good book called Maximum Boost by Corky Bell. It will break it all down for people like my self so that I don't blow my engine up. I got it at barnes and Noble.

I have a 4G64 in my 98 mirage (yes a rare swap and hard to work on) I know for a turbo i need to make a custom exhaust manifold and down pipe (I got that covered) for the use of any turbo kit. Could I use the same turbo kit as the 3.0 eclipse?

I have no clue lol!

Here is the first pic of the 2001 Mitsubishi eclipse V6 turbo kit. I still have them in bags until I put them in this weekend but expect lots of pics for everyone. I guarentee I won't be blowin my motor over ametuer mistakes like some people are expecting from other forums I've read. I will be leaving the psi at 5-6 until I get the short block that I want from Tearstone for around $4g's and then boost the pressure to about 20 psi. My goal is to get the max hp from pump gas and a decent drivability. 1

looks good, I wish i didnt have to put so much money into the car so soon, but i fear that my engine needs alot of work before it can handle a turbo correctly, but if i do get it fixed anytime soon ill be sure to look into a kit like that one.

This kit has been a pain in my **** for a whole week now but I guess all kits have their issues. Well so far I have the turbo kit installed minus hooking up the RPM wire for the boost controller, I'm using the two injectors it came with. Also, I don't know about everybody elses models but the 2001 3.0V6 has alot of mods needed to get the kit to fit. So far my problems are:

- Turbo w/exhaust manifold did not fit right-(the wastegate is slightly bent and is hitting the valve cover. i thought about shortening the bracket that the wastegate sits on but then it won't bolt on. Hopefully it doesn't affect it.

- The brackets they give you to install the intercooler I recommend trashing and cutting a hole in your bumper and then drill a hole from underneath to install bolts to secure the intercooler.

- If you have a manual, you will have to relocate your clutch resevoir most likely to have room for your fuel pressure regulator.

- The water heater hoses are so close to the turbo you barely have room to manuver anything and you will have to bend the brackets to get them to line up to the turbo and the other to the block i think. A big problem is going to be leaks and the water heater metal pipes have to sit flush with the block meaning it has to be as straight as possible or it will leak. I recommend after you get everything dealing with cooling on, doing a pressure check on the entire cooling system. use that pump and listen for leaks.

- You may have to relocate your battery. I am putting mine in the trunk due to very little space left.

- The last charging pipe is gonna have to be modified. <update>Actually when i got my exhaust redone, i asked them to modify that as well but when i looked it used all the parts that it came with so i guess you don't have to modify it. However, you will have to scrap your windshield washer fluid resevoir b/c it's too big and is in the way of the piping.

- The down pipes don't match. I"m taking my car to an exhaust shop soon.

- Try an run all of your wires and vacum hoses through your fender and you'll see the rubber piece just poke thru it with a knife

- I bought oil pressure, boost, and A/F guages which i think are the most important when turbo charging your car.

Still more to come. Pics on the way!

Update: word to the wise

When you are installing anything, make sure you change out the wear items especially the hoses. Since i've put mine in I've had an oil leak, radiator leak, and a fuel leak. First I started it up and the oil was pouring out. Turns out that I didn't tighten the hose to the turbo. Simple fix. Then I punctured the fuel line with the optional "T" fitting to the fuel rail then I found an anti freeze leak. So once I get those fixed my turbo should be running fine. It sounds different than headers. Its a little quieter but the winding noise sounds nice.

It's been about 2 weeks since I started. I've run into a few problems:

-my car is running but my wastegate is either not functioning or the boost is too high. I took it for a spin to test for leaks and noticed the boost guages steadily climbing so obviously I slowed down. I've already called Garrett turbo techs and i guess he needs a pic to understand my bent wastgate issue. I just looked at a different pic. Maybe I can move the wastegate to another location. I will be doing that in about 3 weeks. Don't let this scare you from buying the kit. I was a **** and I took apart my turbo from the exhaust manifold to save on installation time but I may have put it back together wrong which is why it's hitting the valve cover in the first place. Hey shut up Im learning!

- Oil pressure is high and leaking thru the valve cover slightly causing my oil to burn. I asked about that and they said either my release valve hose to the valve cover is connected to the wrong place like the piping to the intake manifold (suppose to be to the inlet of the turbo hose and it is) or the boost is too high. Well seeing that I anticipated this wastegate giving me problems that has to be the reason unless anybody else can think of any other possibilities. Read more on valve covers at:
http://www.trustmymechanic.com/valve_cover_leak.htm

- My BOV doesn't seem to be working. I have it connected to the piping that goes to the intake manifold and the vacuum hose is connected to the vacuum hose behind the throttle body plate. It's one of the little ones that is on the actual throttle body. Is this correct?

Well since I've moved to the worst state in the universe to have a modded car, Cali, I just recently had my car shipped here but in that time I've been reading a few books on potential problems with my turbo and it goes like this:

My wastegate is hitting the valve cover I know this and i probably re-installed it wrong which is why my wastegate is hitting the valve cover in the first place. The problems that I'm probably facing are

- a leaking exhaust manifold which will cause the boost to increase and burn rich b/c I'm sucking in air thru the leak which will cause the engine to burn rich. Makes sense since the computer is gonna compensate for my mistakes to get an equilibrium on gas mileage.

- Also, when I hooked up their piggyback for the external fuel injectors, when i hooked up the RPM wire my car started sputtering so I disconnected it. I think what happen was when I set the setting on the piggyback that I set two setting which do the same thing so they were counter acting the other. What I mean specifically is when you set the limits for fuel, I had the RPM AND the BOOST setting affecting the fuel when you can only have ONE. In the Book it says you can set the the RPM at different RPM's to add more fuel and same with the BOOST. You get me? So if the RPM at 1500 RPM add's so much fuel and then your boost add's so much fuel at 3 PSI and those two numbers intercept then they are working against eachother kind of like when you switch the polarity on one of two speakers, the bass doesn't hit as hard and it sounds nasty.

Pictures coming real soon!

Does anyone know where i can get either a tubro kit or a supercharge kit for a japanese import Mivec Lancer 2000 16valve? :liebe011:

to answer a previous question. Tearstone is currently not selling kits due to supply issues. Tearstone actually was a guy from club3g.com that wanted to turbo his 3g and hand built his kit. Enough people liked it he started Tearstone performance and started marketing the kit, however the company he contracted to manufacture some parts apparently backed out or something but either way until he finds a new supplier for some of his parts he will not be taking orders for his turbo kit

One year later and one year smarter. I've manage to fix quite a few issues ultimately caused by my lack of experience but that's how you learn. I figured out a few issues since then:

Oil leak: these are the most annoying to find but I just recently replace my valve cover because it was bent pretty bad where the gasket sits. It is suppose to sit snug in there and if it falls out then the inside where it sits is bent somewhere. I chose to buy a new one b/c it was bent in multiple places. Also, I reccommend changing every gasket that you expose. This should have been a no brainer but that was the only one i didn't replace. my streetglow oil pressure gauge is still reading high but i think it is a cheap gauge so I will by an AEM. I also had a A/F, and Boost guage and had problems with the A/F then switched to AEM and it works just fine.

Fuel leak: I decided after reading some other forums to trash the fuel management system that came with the kit after my own experiences showed that it was unreliable and cheaply made. Sometimes it would turn on and sometimes it wouldn't plus when i used the T - fitting on the fuel line, I had a slight leak and the hose needed to be replaced. that part stock was about $60. So now I will buy bigger injectors which are about $350-500 and install a greddy e-manage which I already bought but never put in b/c i didn't wanna mess up my engine well since i have my new AEM A/F guage it pretty much stays on rich because it's not tuned. Very bad by the way. It's can only get better from here by installing it lol.

Coolant leak: I fixed that first which it was not sitting correctly because there is no where to mount the braket so you have to make a braket.

Wastegate: Making a new braket to mount somewhere as we speak

intercooler leak: since I first installed this it's been damaged so I finally ordered a new one today so my pressure should go back and the BOV should work now.

Bottom line if you've never done this before get help but do the work yourself cuz it's the only way you'll learn. I know so much more about the entire engine now than I did before. So weather I keep my car or buy a new one I'll know exactly what to do.