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> L200 Takes Long Time Starting Problem, Especially When Cold, Or Worse in Cold.
Addaz786
post Mar 2 2007, 02:53 PM
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Drives: 1999 L200 4Life



Hi All,

My Fisrt day at this Forum.

I have a 1999 L200 4Life 2.5 Turbo Diesel.

I have always had this problem with it starting when it is cold. The problem is more worse when the Weather is Cold.

I have to keep letting the glow light come up and then try start and somtimes this can take over 10 tries, and then you have to keep trying to turn the engine over until the battery is almost dead and suddenly it catches and lets a whole load of smoke out, After this it is fine all day.

Once you get it started the first time, it is tottally fine all day until the next day. I have had it serviced and glow plugs changed.
I was told by the mitsubishi Dealer that it does not have a Glow PLug relay, but rather has some sort of diesel managment system.

Any Idea what is going on,
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Peter5
post Mar 14 2007, 10:23 AM
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It still has a relay controlled by a control unit though you will find the relay on the bulkhead next to where the battery sits, it has 3 terminals a positive feed, a feed to the glow plug rail and a switched power for when the relay needs to operate, easiest thing is to see have you powere to the Glow rail if not see is the relay switching on if you do have power to the rail best get a set of genuine Glow plugs
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LEESTUBEE
post Jun 18 2007, 02:25 PM
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Drives: 2002 L200 DC 2.5TD



Hello, I am also new to the forum and to owning an L200! My 2002 truck has got the same problem. First time start takes ages. I have changed the glow plugs twice, I suspected the first set that I fitted were inferior quality so replaced them with ADL Blueprint plugs but its still the same.

I am getting a good feed to the glow plug rail so I am stumped.

Let me know if you get any joy.

Mines going to the Main dealer on Friday for a check up.
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Alex
post Jun 19 2007, 12:32 PM
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1. check glowplugs
2. battery voltage (during cranking pref. >9V)
3. inj. pump, mitsu launched a procedure for inj. feed pump check
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conanofcimmeria
post Jun 19 2007, 02:12 PM
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l200 injection pumps are appearing to be a problem with excessive crank.there is a set procedure for mitsi dealers to do in oder to get a replacment pump authorized.the symptoms are exectly what you have.generally it is hard when sat overnight but once started is fine.it appears they are bleeding fuel off and as none of the parts are serfvicable due to the calibrating box on top of the pump they need replacement.a word of advise for anyone haviing to do this is be wary of recon pumps they may try to fit.they have been more trouble than the genuine pumps but if your under warranty you may not have much choice
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LEESTUBEE
post Jun 22 2007, 01:32 PM
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Hi, Diagnostics said that I have got a faulty Manifold air temp sensor (about 25) and a faulty control unit (about 29) causing the poor starting.

The diagnostic cost me 37.50 and it will be money well spent if they are right!
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L2004x4
post Aug 31 2007, 06:30 PM
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Drives: 1990 L200, 4x4, 4D56



Hello all!
I have same problem with my 1990 L200 4d56 non-turbo, non-electronic.
Problem was getting worse, like this:
After letting it sit overnight, you let it glow the plugs, crank it and it feels like if the injection pump is without fuel, it started, then died inmediately.
Then if before it died one runs and pumps the primer pump that goes on top of the fuel filter,it hessitated a bit (due to trapped air, I guess) but engine kept running and all was OK.
So, I replaced the primer pump, which comes with the fuel filter base, with a new one.Worked fine, for a couple of weeks, then it came back, when cold, it starts and then dies, like if it has no fuel or if the injection pump is empty.
Pumping manually didn't help any more, so I installed an electric fuelp pump (low pressure, like the ones for older, carburated gas engines) right in the feed line, near the fuel tank, to make the filter and injection fill up with fuel while the glow plugs are running (electric pump was connected to the glow plug relay to achieve this).This helped a bit, but cold start take 2 or 3 tries, after which the engine hessitates, misfires, sounds like not all cylinders are getting fuel,puffs white smoke for a while, and then stabilizes.I even connected the AC compensator(with a separated temp send unit) in a way that keeps the engine in high idle while coolants gets warm.
What can be wrong? I think that it is not the injection pump, since a have make sevrala trips well over 300~400 miles and the engine runs perfectly, it goes uphills, pedal to the metal on flat roads, and I don't even feel that the governor tries to cut-off.Smoke at tailpipe is normal at all times.
Please help! I don't want to start spending money on things like pump and injector calibration until I'm sure!
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agnavin
post Oct 15 2007, 08:36 PM
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Gday people.

New to the forum and just reading all the posts on this problem in this thread and in others, I have suffered the same problem with my 1995 triton 4d56T. To aleivate the problem I have replace glow plugs, serviced injectors, serviced injector pump ect. anll of theres remedies work for a while then loos their effect. espically when your motors done 200 000kms +. SIMPLE FIX I found that has never let me down. Find the control wire for glow plug relay. Splice into this wire BUT DONT CUT IT. Run wire to a switch on dash and back to 12v
Make the switch a toggle type, its easier to use. When you come out to your cold truck switch on ign and your special glow plug switch wait 5min and fire engine. Leave switch on for further 1min after engine is running.
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conanofcimmeria
post Oct 17 2007, 02:35 PM
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to activate glow plugs for that long should burn them out completely.most glow plugs are designed for powering up at no longer than 30seconds max.I have tested old pl0ugs when changing sets and they tend to burn out in less than a minute when powered up.5 minutes just seems impossable
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agnavin
post Oct 18 2007, 10:16 PM
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Drives: 1995 Mitsubishi triton 4wd



I forgot to add the mot important part.
You need to use 24 v glow plugs for my soultion to work they dont burn out. Use canter or fuso ones
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