I am in the process of changing a timing belt on a 2001 Montero 3.5 L SOHC. The procedure for the timing belt is straightforward. I am changing the idler and tensioner pulley (all Gates parts) along with the hydrolic tensioner (factory Mitsubishi part).
I am also replacing the water pump. The question I have is the gaskets. The new water pump (AC Delco) comes with 2 gaskets and an "O" ring. One gasket is from the water pump to the mounting plate, the other is the mounting plate to the engine block.
Looking at the factory manual, do I need to separate the thermostat housing from the backing plate in order to remove the water pump? If so do I need another gasket as the water pump came with 2 gaskets and an "O" ring.
I would rather get everything I need before I start the job and my concern is that the gasket from the thermostat housing to the backing plate would be a dealer item.
Also the Factory manual states that the camshaft sprocket needs to be removed. Can anyone verify if this is the case?
Thanks
Jack

From the manual page (I'm getting ready to do this myself!) It looks like you have to remove the crankshaft pully to remove the "timing belt lower cover assembly". The manual also says that the crankshaft pully bolt is torqed to 137 ft-lbs. So it is in REALLY in there!

I have included the relevant pages from the manual.

Good Luck!
Scott

Attached File(s)
 Timing_Belt.pdf ( 340.38k ) Number of downloads: 104

thanks for the reply Scott, just finished the installation yesterday afternoon and all said it really was not that bad. The 2001 full size Montero has plenty of room to work. If it was not for the AC bracket being in the way, the job would have been much much easier. Here is my 2 cents:
1) Water pump--I opted to change the water pump. I ordered an AC-Delco water pump (part number 252-497). I double and triple checked and was told this was the correct pump. Anyway, started the job 7:00am Saturday morning and by 9:30 I found out that it was the wrong pump!!!! Went to 6 different auto parts stores and no one has the pump. A week ago I was in the local dealer picking up a new crank pulley bolt and some O ring gaskets and he had a new pump in stock. The OEM pump comes with the housing attached. Called the dealer and the parts dept is closed on Saturday ( I guess their mechanics have to go to PEP boys if they need something). Anyway had to wait till Monday to get the new pump. If anything it gave me time to sort out all the bolts and clean the water pump mounting surface really well. Just make sure you have the proper O ring. My aftermarket pump did not have the right size. Also plan how you will remove the pump and know which housing gaskets you will need. Many auto parts stores do not stock the gaskets and the delaer had to order one for me.
2) Crankshaft Pulley Holding Tool---- I fabricated my own tool. I have a welder and a drill press and made a super heavy duty tool. If anyone wants I can post a picture. It is about 3 feet long and it really worked well. The long length of the tool, plus the 1/2 inch breaker bar with a pipe extension did the trick. It took less than 2 minutes to get the bolt off!!! My brother in law held the tool and pushed in one direction (clockwise) and I held the pipe and breaket bar and push in the opposite direction (counter clockwise). Basically we were both applying torque in opposite directions and the bolt came right off. We used the same technique to torque the bolt down to 140 ft/LBS. Without the tool the job would have been very hard. I saw tools for sale over 60.00 and not nearly as good.
3) Timing Belt replacement--- After I turned the motor to TDC, I then marked the old timing belt with TDC location. I transfered the marks to the new belt. 1 mark on the crank, 1 on the left cam and 1 on the right cam. This made replacing the blet much easier as I knew if the marks lined up, I did not miss any teeth. I found that binder clips worked really well for holding the belt in place. I replaced the hyrolic tensioner, tensioner pulley and also the idler pulley. the only difficulty I had was adjusting the pretension using the special tool and a torque wrench set at 40 inch/lbs. Using this method I did not get the right clearance of .190 to .210. through some trial and error I finally had the correct setting at .195 and was able to insert and remove the grenade pin. I turned the motor over slowly by hand and let it sit. I grabbed some lunch and again turned the engine by hand, the grenade pin was still able to be removed. I figured all was well.
I put everything back together and all worked well. I would of liked to have put new gaskets on the timing belt cover, but the dealer did not have them and I did not want to wait. Ran it last night and today, all appears to be good, only time will tell.
Sorry for the long thread...

simjack -

Thank you for the most comprehensive, description and explanation that I have read out of ANY of the forums. Most people just talk about one small part of the project. I appreciate that you took the time to list the things that worked and the things that didn't. It helps me plan for doing the job myself and now others as well.

I would like to see this tool that you made. Now I don't have a welder, so I may be looking for another way to fabricate this, on the other hand it IS a good excuse ot buy another tool!

It also sounds like this part makes it a 2 man job, at least with regard to the crankshaft bolt.

I have a few questions for you:

The O-ring (water pump) are you talking about the water pipe ends?

I am assuming that you used the bolt to turn the engine to TDC and then removed it? If otherwise, did you remove the spark plugs to make the engine easier to turn by hand? In short, can you tell me a little more about how you turned the motor by hand?

Where did you get the "special tool" for the tensioner, online? What seemed to cause the problem (hit or miss) with the tensioner?

By the way, Awesome idea on marking the timing belt! Marking the old belt with the timing marks and transfering to the new belt - that insures it goes on the way it came off - Brilliant!

Thank You Simjack!

I will try and post a picture of the tool tonight. the O ring I am referring to goes into the back of the water pump housing. It is small I would say maybe 1/2 inch in diameter. The aftermarket pump I purchased did not provide the O ring.
You could remove the bolt alone but it was much easier with a helper. 2 people provide that much more torque
I did not remove the spark plugs, that is another project in itself as they are under the plenum.
to turn the motor by hand, I used a craftsman heavy duty strap wrench (the metal one, about 15.00, not the plastic). I cut a piece off of an old serpentine belt, wrapped it around the pulley grooves then placed the rubber strap around the belt. The long handle made it fairly easy to turn. Again turn the engine s-l-o-w-e-l-y. If you feel any resistance other than the normal cylinder pressure back off and check from timing marks. you do not want to nick the valve.
I purchased the adjustment tool from miller. It was 20.00 ( 15.00 overpriced in my opinion) but I needed it. The only problem I had was in trying to torque the adjustment cam to 40 inch/lbs and the cam bolt to 39 ft/lbs at the same time. I found it was easier to leave thhe grenade pin in place use hold the cam with the tool and torque the bolt to spec. It seemed to work in that I could easily insert and remove the pin several times.
Marking the timing belt helped me install the new belt. Just dont expect to see the marking on the belt to line up with the TDC cam marks after the engine is rotated. This is a good way to make sure you route the new belt correctly. Make sure you use the binder clips

Great! Thanks Simjack!

....and thanks for the answers!

I think I now have enough information to plan and undertake this. So now it's time to start ordering the parts and tools. It's quite a list, but well worth it!

Thanks again!

Scott

It was good to read this comphrensive report with excellent follow-up notes. Thank you very much from those of us who are about to undertake a similiar project. If I may I would like to add a couple of comments from other write-ups which may or may not be of some use.

1/ You can remove the crankbolt by positioning a 6 point impact socket and breaker bar against the frame and flicking the ignition switch on. I haven't done this but many many mechanics swear by it. just make sure you have it going in the correct direction.

2/ I read in a recent thread that the crank pully didn't need to be removed and you could install belt with careful mounevering.

3/ Very valid points about getting the correct gaskets, etc for the job. Often after market components do not come with all the 'extra parts' and you need to source bits and pieces. It is not only time consumming but frustrating.

Jim

Sorry I could not upload te pictures last night. Anyway here are 2 images of the crank pulley tool I fabricated. I set it against a tape measure for reference. The metal can be purchased in any home depot/Lowes. You may not need it but I added a "handle" made from 1 inch square tube. This made it easier to hold when the breaker bar was used on the socket. Also since the handle is hollow you can insert a bar for additional leverage.
As for using the starter trick, I thought about it, but decided not to try it. First of all I had much of the front off the car and the battery out to get to the AC compressor and P/S compressor. Starting the car in this manner is sure to trip the check engine light. Second, the way I figure it, if the starter trick does not work then I risk starter, flywheel problems. If the bolt breaks then you have another much bigger problem.
As for not removing the crank pulley, then you cannot remove the lower plastic cover. As far as I know, you must remove the lowever cover to get to the pulley, tensioner, etc. Also, on the 2001 full size Montero, when you remove the Accessory tray, you also remove the timing mark. You must use the timing mark that is behind the crank gear to line up TDC with the cam pulleys.
A final note, when doing the water pump, I used the OEM Mitsu gaskets. These are metal with a special coating. I used Permatex High Tack to hold them in place and all seems well. Just remember to prep the area well and use some acetone to clean up any oil.

being an ex-mitsi tech I have to say that your fabrication is a good idea but we have always used the breakerbar and starter route as it is easy,safe and has always worked.if positioned properly it poses no threat to the a/c compressor.generally I position in front of the compressor slightly forward towards the front of the vehicle as there is another bit of cross member to lock the bar on.I have never had a bolt break but if one were to then there is not much chance you would remove it any other way and would still be in the predicament of needing the crank removed.as for the engine light coming on it is not possable due to the fact that no electrical components are disconnected to do this.all your doing is adding a little more resistance to the normal starting amps normally required.At the end of the day either way can be done and it is personal preference.marking the timing belts is good as I do it myself with a ready supply of tip ex but I believe all mitsi engines have very clear and easily visible timing marks on the housings to match up with the pulleys.I tend to mark these for identification.

As said by others your posts have been very in depth and helpful.I believe that is why these forums are here-for all of us to help each other

My sentiments exactly. Thank you all for contributing to a constructive debate.

I wish another car forum I belong to was as friendly and helpful as this one.

Jim

Thanks Simjack for posting the tool picts! I was considering the Home Depot trip and have a friend that is a welder close to home. So that should be easy enough to fabricate (now that I have seen your example). So thanks for that!

The whole "hit the starter - thing" certainly sounds interesting and I can see that breaking the bolt loose, but you still have to torqe it down..., so wouldn't you still need to have this tool to put that bolt at 140 ft-lbs without moving the engine?

And does this mean that you would hit the starter to loosen the crankshaft bolt, and then (by-hand) turn the engine to TDC so that all the timing marks line up before continuing the dismantle?

Thanks to everyone and especially Simjack! I agree, this shows that these forums can REALLY work!

Scott

You are welcome Scott. Actually you do not even need a welder. The only reason I used the welder was so that I could create an angle one of the arms. I had some free time one weekend over the winter so I added some extras (removeable handle, bend in the arm). Basically all you need is 2 pieces of flat stock (one longer than the other), drill 3 holes and install 3 bolts.
By the way conanofcimmeria is correct, if you use the starter method, you should not have any problem with the check engine light. Just try not to disconnect to many connections before bumping the starter
I have a 2001 full size Montero and was very surpised at how much room I had to work in after removing only the radiator shroud and the fan assembly. There was 1 bolt on the accessory mount that was under the AC compressor bracket. To get that bolt, I had to remove the power steering bracket and AC bracket. If that bolt was not there, the job would have been really easy.
Since I had to wait until Monday for the new water pump, I had some time to label and clean all the bolts. The water pump has 1 bolt that is slightly shorter than the other 4. Also the bolt sizes are very specific on the accessory mount. There is a good diagram in the FSM. Let me know if you need it.
Lastly use a torque wrench not only on the pulley bolt but also on all other bolts, especially the accessory mount. It is made out of aluminum and can crack if too much torque is used. I added a little dab of Permatex Anti Seize to all the bolts (especially the water pump bolts).
NExt job is going to be the spark plugs.....................

Since you are an expert can you please solve this problem for me:

I am having a really bad dilemna, I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Montero with a bad water pump. My problem is every part store I go to including the Mitsubishi dealer's computer pulls a different water pump from the one that is in my car. I decided to go online to see if I could find a water pump that looks like the water pump in my car, I happened to find two different types of water pumps, one like the water pump in all the part stores computers and one that looks like the water pump I currently have in my car. Here is a link to a page that shows the two water pumps: http://www2.partstrain.com/store/?Ntt=W ... 4294967261. The Airtex is the one like the water pump in my car, and the OE Service is like the one in the part stores computer system. As you can see from the pictures these two pumps look nothing alike. Is it possible for these two pumps to be interchangeable for my car even though they don't look like they both could fit in the same place in my car. Please help it is 102 degrees in South Carolina and it is miserable without air condition in the car.

Firstlly yu are getting confused. The 6G7 all have a timing belt driven water pump. Wut yu are seeing is not a water pump. It is the auxillary belt driven assembly for the mechanical cooling fan. Its not a water pump. That assembly has a bearing and is bolted to an aluminum case that surrounds most of the mid to lower timing belt area , but to get to the real water pump yu have to remove all that assembly. Sorry but yu are mistaken by wut yu have seen.

What is a 6G7?

G67 is the engine code. simliar to Chevy engine codes ( L88, LS6, LT1). The engine code denotes the displacement, # of cylinders, horsepower ETC. Anyway, you will not be able to see the water pump until you remove the timing belt cover and all the accessory components.
I had the same problem, I purchased the parts beforehand as I wanted to have everything I needed. When I pulled the water pump, I found out that the unit I purchased was not the same. To begin with mine is a 2 piece pump, I purchased the front half with the intention of using the back housing. When it did not fit, I returned the one I bought but none of the auto parts stores had the correct part. I went back to the dealer and purchased the OEM pump. It comes as 1 complete unit. It cost more but I needed to get the job done.
If in doubt get both pumps and return the one that does not fit. Easier than looking for it when the trunk is apart
Jack

6G74 not G67 , i said 6G7 basically because the 6G7 is the series of engines the 4 denoting the displacment. Thats all. They are all belt driven water pumps and no they are not like L99(not L88) and the other LT series engines (LT1/LT4) which the water pump is ext\ernal the timing cover but is driven by the cam sprocket via an geared roller. 6= cylinders , G=Petrol/Gasoline , 7 = Cyclone Engine Series , 4 = 3.5 (Displacment denotes in series /The size does not correspond to the order of its numeric denote)But tht its the 4th in the engine series and it has a 3.5 liter displacment