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Double Din In Dash? Xenon Conversion?, Double din in dash? Xenon conversion?
| Kemo |
May 21 2007, 06:44 AM
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Hi there!
2 DIN center panel: i recommend to buy a new part, not to "destruct" the actual one. However, I did not hear about 2DIN panel, just ask the dealer, might be there is such part available for Europe. I guess for other regions this was available in models with navi equipment.
Xenons: you will have one small problem with fastening the H1 bulb in 1G Outlander headlamps. Did you ever change your original halogen bulb? Just check it out and you will see some kind of white colour connector/adapter placed between 12V harness socket and the H1 bulb. This adapter you will be not able to re-use after mounting xenon bulbs (cause the HID bulb does not use the same bulb base as the original halogen bulb) and therefore your new HID bulb will not be pressed/locked with the lock-spring. Just open your engine bay and look. The HID bulb base itself is embeded too deep and the diameter of the base-ring is too small. I hope you understand - hard to descibe it in English for me :-)
I solved this problem with a home-made provisional washer / raising-piece / plate. It is made of extruded polystyrene (about 8 mm thick circle) and a hard paper (I used sanding paper / abbrassive coated paper) fastened with glue on it at one side. A hole for the bulb body is in the center. Then you put the bulb in the reflector seating, place a washer with the paper facing the spring and lock the spring. The polystyrene is soft enough to adapt to the seating shape and hard enough to fill the space between the bulb base and the spring developing pressure to fix the bulb.
There is another issue with HID conversion and it is the rubber sealing ring on the bulb harness included in the kit. 1G Outlander does have original harness to power the bulb led from engine bay, not from inside the lamp as usually. Usually (most car models) if you want to access the bulb, first you have to remove plastic cover, which is used as the sealing preventing the moisture getting in the lamp. Cables for the bulb are led from inside the lamp and therefore the installation manual instruct you to drill a hole into the plastic cover and put there included rubber sealing with 4 cables going through this rubber sealing. One pair is to get the 12V source out to the balast/invertor placed out of the lamp and the second pair is to get the modified voltage back in to the xenon bulb. In Outlander you don't have the plastic lamp cover, you have another bigger rubber ring-sealing-cup instead. And you need just the second pair of cables to go through the small rubber sealing, therefore you need to get out the first pair and seal 2 small holes in the small rubber sealing. To to this and to not damage the small sealing, you have to cut off bayonets from the 1st pair, pull out 2 cables and solder bayonets back - I replaced original bayonets (mine were just 5mm and 6mm wide) for larger, because the original socket/adaptor is made for 8mm byonets. Those hold better in the socket.
I hope I helped you. If you have a chance, visit a shop with the kit and check it. It is not a big deal to perform such changes, depends just on you and your abilities and skills.
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| roys |
May 30 2007, 05:11 AM
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The centre panel should be available. Is it possible to find the original Mitsubishi part number? Regards, Roy.
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| Kemo |
Jun 25 2007, 05:02 AM
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QUOTE(roys @ May 29 2007, 12:20 AM) Hi, Thanks for your reaction. I will ook at the headlights, it's not all clear, but when i open the headlamp i think ik will understand. I think i can manage this problem. Roy. Hi there! So what"s up with your xenon headlights? I put xenon bulbs in my MY2005 Turbo and it works so far. I had problems with voltage invertors (transformators/ballasts), dealer changed them because they had some construction deffects. He gave me "Pilot" ballasts instead. So this is probably the answer to your question about recommended brands. The faulty kit was Well Done brand (http://www.well-done.net.cn). Bulbs and wiring are OK, but ballasts were faulty. BTW, did you find the correct part number for the 2DIN dash panel? Can you pass it to me please? How was the installation?
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| roys |
Jun 26 2007, 02:16 AM
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Hi, My xenon hid kit does not work till now. When I connect the hid conversion set to the original connectors, the xenon lamp will not light up. When I connect directly to the battery, the xenon bulb will light up. I think it's something with the cabling? Maybe to much voltage loss? I will try a relay cable with the power directly from the battery. What was your problem with the ballast? Electrically ok, but mechanical problems? The Xenon lighted up? I ordered my 2-din panel, but it's not the right one. The pushbuttons for the air circulation and the window heating are not right located. For me it is unusable. Maybe it fits to your car. Installation cannot be very difficult.... I already checked the space behind the panel, this is no problem. Is there somebody who can find the right part number for the double din panel? I think this panel is used in Japan. It has to fit in a 2006 Outlander CU5W. I got the American version, but is doesn't fit in the Europe models, because of the two buttons located in this panel. This part is located in section 55 sub 210 from the Mitsubishi CAPS program. I ordered this one (also now for sale):  But it should be this one:  Can somebody look up this part in the CAPS program???
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| Kemo |
Jul 12 2007, 07:26 AM
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QUOTE(roys @ Jun 26 2007, 09:16 AM) Hi,
My xenon hid kit does not work till now. When I connect the hid conversion set to the original connectors, the xenon lamp will not light up. When I connect directly to the battery, the xenon bulb will light up. I think it's something with the cabling? Maybe to much voltage loss? I will try a relay cable with the power directly from the battery. What was your problem with the ballast? Electrically ok, but mechanical problems? The Xenon lighted up? ......
Hi Roys! My problem with ballast was that it burned out. Bulbs went on, I tried several times to turn them onand off and back on etc. But after I let them work for longer time, one balast burned out after 30sec, both were very hot, the second one survived. After I got first replacement for the burned one, it burned as well after 60sec with great smoke effect! Then the dealer took all balasts back and gave me 2 of Pilot brand. They work good so far, no heat. Your problem is very strange. For sure you checked out, that it is not a fuse problem. You did not have to replace fuses after you connected halogen bulbs back. I guess, that low quality balasts recommend to use stronger fuses (Outlander does have 10A fuses for low beam headlights), even 25-30A in case of instructions book for my creap balasts. The Pilot balast work even with 10A fuses. The another possible problem could be a headlights relay. But it had to be some protection system or something like that influencing your HIDs. E.g. protection for case of burned/damaged regular halogen bulbs. I am not aware of one implemented in Outlander. I think it is not a problem of low voltage after relay. I measure 12,04V by HIDs on and engine not running. Just connect the ballast and HID bulb to the regular connector/socket, turn on lights and measure the voltage at the balast input. You should see the voltage and current operational parameters on the balast label. Of course, watch the polarity. Because balast ist a voltage invertor (DC/DC) with semiconductors inside, it will not work with switched polarity in better case, or it will burn in worst case of sh*tty construction. You can measure even the flowing DC current by connecting the ampermeter in serial. But if there is no output power drain from balast for the HID bulb, there will be no full current flow at the input side of balast. My Pilot brand balast works in range 8-16V, with 35W drain, means about 3A at 12V. The peak current at the time of bulb ignition is lower than 10A. What barand of HID conversion kit do you have?
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| Kemo |
Jul 17 2007, 02:21 AM
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QUOTE(roys @ Jul 16 2007, 04:44 PM) Problem with Xenon solved. The problem was that the Xenon hid kit was delivered with a stand cable for a connection to the cable of the Outlander. But the cable of the hid kit has a wrong polarity. So i changed the polarity of one connector and it is working. :) I only had to make an ring to fill up the space on the back of the xenon lamp. Otherwise it would not clamp with the original grip on the backside of the headlamp unit. Double din: I order a new dashpanel, i hope this will fit.... :right: That is great! What colour did you mount? 4500K, 6000K or even higher? What do you say after first kilometers driven at night? Do you see signifficant difference? Week after I installed my xenons one driver-beginner "tuned" my rear bumper, so my Outy went to workshop and I did not have chance to prove xenon performance at night, days are so long in summer time.
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| roys |
Jul 19 2007, 10:26 AM
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I did mount the 6000K. The difference is significant. More light and a great look. I did choose the 6000K instead of the 8000K. The 8000K is too purple, I think. I both changed the headlights normal light and the far light. I also built in my double-din panel with the Kenwood DNX7200. Perfect combination with the Bluetooth module and the TMC receiver. I am very satisfied with this unit. The original double dinpanel did not fit into the car. I had to adapt the holes of the temperature control. I took some time, but now it's ready! I will post some photos of the car….
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