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> Another "cranks But Won't Start" Issue, Yes, I tried the pinned topic and search
2gDad
post Aug 11 2007, 03:27 PM
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I've read a lot of similar posts here, but they rarely have the final "fix" listed. If you can help, please post possible solutions. Here's the story:

Sons 97 RS threw a rod. Replaced engine with another 2.0L n/t (420A) from a 99 RS that had not been driven in 2-3 years. Cannot get the replacement engine started. All new fluids, tuns over fine, but no spark. Coil pack tests okay. Have double checked all wires, fuses, vacuum lines. Tried swapping ECU, cam and crank sensors, coil packs, and wires between old and new engine. Still no spark. Have fuel pressure at rail, but after cranking plugs still look dry? Timing marks line up okay. Any other ideas? The replacement engine was mated to an auto tranny, while Sons car is a manual. Shouldn't make a difference should it? Please help, this is making us both crazy.
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c0dy
post Aug 11 2007, 03:50 PM
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Did you replace the coolant temperature sensor? I had similar problem, checked everything nothing worked, then I replaced that and it bam. The garage along with me were still baffled.
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2gDad
post Aug 11 2007, 04:04 PM
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QUOTE(c0dy @ Aug 11 2007, 04:50 PM)
Did you replace the coolant temperature sensor?  I had similar problem, checked everything nothing worked, then I replaced that and it bam.  The garage along with me were still baffled.
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Thanks for the idea. That's the large connector right under the radiator cap right? The car is at the shop so I can't try it right now, but will sure try swapping them as soon as I can. Please keep the ideas coming.

BTW, does anyone know if the sensors on the intake could cause the no start problem? I see at least 3 different sensors that I might try swapping as soon as I can.
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bryan_root
post Aug 11 2007, 05:18 PM
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uhm the intake plugs shouldnt keep from starting but could keep from idleing and im not sure bout the transmission but i know i did a trans swap on a 300zx twin turbo and i had to change the transmsission computer because was completely different sorry i cant help ne more i hope more people know the answer.
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2gDad
post Aug 11 2007, 07:45 PM
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QUOTE(bryan_root @ Aug 11 2007, 06:18 PM)
uhm the intake plugs shouldnt keep from starting but could keep from idleing and im not sure bout the transmission but i know i did a trans swap on a 300zx twin turbo and i had to change the transmsission computer because was completely different sorry i cant help ne more i hope more people know the answer.
[right][snapback]108022[/snapback][/right]


Thanks for the info.
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2gDad
post Aug 11 2007, 07:59 PM
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There is no transmission computer on a 5 speed is there?

More info:
The engine from the donor car did not start when purchased (supposedly due to a bad fuel pump). It would spin but not fire. Since swapping it into the "good car" it behaves exactly the same, although I know all of the parts in the "good car" work except for anything that might be physcially attached to the donor car engine. Since I've swapped the ECU, cam and crank sensors, coil pack & wires, spark plugs & coolant temp sensor from the "good car", I'm wondering what else I could be missing that might allow the donor engine to run. I'm thinking about the 3 sensors on the intake, or possibly swapping the entire intake assembly. What else could I check/change? It's got to be something on the engine itself (doesn't it)? Help!
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ESchwanz
post Aug 11 2007, 07:59 PM
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QUOTE(2gDad @ Aug 11 2007, 03:27 PM)
Tried swapping ECU,


Not sure if it makes a diffrence... but did you swap them back.. being that the donor ECU was for an auto not a manual? Just a thought. :thumbsup:

Did you replace or just swap both the Crankshaft & Camshaft sensor? Chapter 6-12 section 11 in the Haynes describes how to check the Camshaft sensor to see if its working properly, & Chapter 6-11 section 10 for the Crankshaft sensor :P
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2gDad
post Aug 11 2007, 08:04 PM
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I did swap the original ECU back into the car, but did not actually test the cam and crank sensors from the "good car", since they were working prior to the thrown rod, but I do have a Haynes manual and will take a look at testing them tomorrow. Thanks.
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ESchwanz
post Aug 11 2007, 08:24 PM
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Does it throw any codes?
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ESchwanz
post Aug 11 2007, 08:42 PM
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Not sure if you read this part of the " won't start " thread or tried this... :thumbsup:

QUOTE(ian_12 @ Oct 27 2006, 08:28 PM)
its not the fuel pump relay. its the asd (mfi) relay. when it goes bad or say doesnt get a signal from the crank sensor, it shuts the fuel pump, coil, and injectors down. causes too many headaches.

thats why we replaced your cam and crank sensors. we never did jump the asd to test everything because it was like a hidden thing i didnt know about back then. but hey you got new updated sensors, makes you feel good right? lmao
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QUOTE(pwee05 @ Oct 30 2006, 10:30 AM)
i've had that one happen.  every once and a while when I would try to start the car I wouldn't hear the fuel pump kick in when i turned the key.  it would die on me sometimes just while cruising along too.

the only thing I had to go on was the lack of sound from the pump when I turned the key.  so when it happened again I turned the key off and on until I heard the pump kick in and it fired right up.  I replaced the relay for $3.56 and it never happened again.

the guy at the dodge dealer (since the engine is chrysler) said they sell those relays more than 8 times a month for the neons, talons, avengers, and sebrings all with the 420a, a588 engine.  not worth checking for a recal since the part was under $5.
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95gst
post Aug 11 2007, 09:05 PM
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it maight sound dumb but it happened to me when i changed my motor it would star also there was no spark, and something with the injector also it took us a day to find out it was a plugh under the fuse box that controls the spark signal and some other stuff with the injectors is righ under the fuse box chek it out you never know
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2gDad
post Aug 12 2007, 07:04 AM
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Checked several times and no codes.
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2gDad
post Aug 12 2007, 07:08 AM
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I did read the threads, and I suppose anything could fail in an instant, but was thinking all relays etc, worked prior to the engine swap and were not changed so should still be good. Also, since the donor engine wouldn't start prior to the swap, was thinking it must be something on that engine itself, preventing the spark/fuel from working properly. May be wrong (wouldn't be the first time) so I'll try to check those items. Thanks for the ideas.
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2gDad
post Aug 12 2007, 07:32 AM
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QUOTE(95gst @ Aug 11 2007, 10:05 PM)
it maight sound dumb but it happened to me when i changed my motor it would star also there was no spark, and something with the injector also it took us a day to find out it was a plugh under the fuse box that controls the spark signal and some other stuff with the injectors is righ under the fuse box chek it out you never know
[right][snapback]108052[/snapback][/right]


I took a look at the fuse box and all wires seem to be properly connected. Was your problem with the wires at the lower left front corner of the fuse box when viewed from the front of the car? If not, maybe there are other wires I haven't checked, although the wiring harness was not changed with the engine swap, so should be intact. It worked for the previous engine. Thanks for the idea.
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2gDad
post Aug 12 2007, 07:35 AM
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QUOTE(c0dy @ Aug 11 2007, 04:50 PM)
Did you replace the coolant temperature sensor?  I had similar problem, checked everything nothing worked, then I replaced that and it bam.  The garage along with me were still baffled.
[right][snapback]108012[/snapback][/right]



Swapped the coolant sensor and still no go.
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95gst
post Aug 12 2007, 08:12 AM
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MINES WASNT CHANGET EIGHTHEER BUT IT HAPEND TO CAME TOFF WEEL LET ME SEEWHEN YOU ATTEMP TO START THE MOTOR IT ROTATES RIGHT.. ITS THE BATTERY AT FULL CHARGE,CHECK THE SPARK PLUGS ON THE NEW ENGINE, IF IT HAS A DISTRIBUTOR OR CRANK ANGLE SENSOR IT MAY BE MES UP IT CHANGES THE TIMING ON THE CAR, CHECK THE COIL PACK....THATS SOME IDEAS THAT I GOT FROM READING THE REPAIR MANUAL FOR 91 TO99 ECLIPSE S VERY USEFULL HOPE IT HELPS GOOD LUCK
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95gst