I've read a lot of similar posts here, but they rarely have the final "fix" listed. If you can help, please post possible solutions. Here's the story:

Sons 97 RS threw a rod. Replaced engine with another 2.0L n/t (420A) from a 99 RS that had not been driven in 2-3 years. Cannot get the replacement engine started. All new fluids, tuns over fine, but no spark. Coil pack tests okay. Have double checked all wires, fuses, vacuum lines. Tried swapping ECU, cam and crank sensors, coil packs, and wires between old and new engine. Still no spark. Have fuel pressure at rail, but after cranking plugs still look dry? Timing marks line up okay. Any other ideas? The replacement engine was mated to an auto tranny, while Sons car is a manual. Shouldn't make a difference should it? Please help, this is making us both crazy.

Did you replace the coolant temperature sensor? I had similar problem, checked everything nothing worked, then I replaced that and it bam. The garage along with me were still baffled.

Thanks for the idea. That's the large connector right under the radiator cap right? The car is at the shop so I can't try it right now, but will sure try swapping them as soon as I can. Please keep the ideas coming.

BTW, does anyone know if the sensors on the intake could cause the no start problem? I see at least 3 different sensors that I might try swapping as soon as I can.

uhm the intake plugs shouldnt keep from starting but could keep from idleing and im not sure bout the transmission but i know i did a trans swap on a 300zx twin turbo and i had to change the transmsission computer because was completely different sorry i cant help ne more i hope more people know the answer.

Thanks for the info.

There is no transmission computer on a 5 speed is there?

More info:
The engine from the donor car did not start when purchased (supposedly due to a bad fuel pump). It would spin but not fire. Since swapping it into the "good car" it behaves exactly the same, although I know all of the parts in the "good car" work except for anything that might be physcially attached to the donor car engine. Since I've swapped the ECU, cam and crank sensors, coil pack & wires, spark plugs & coolant temp sensor from the "good car", I'm wondering what else I could be missing that might allow the donor engine to run. I'm thinking about the 3 sensors on the intake, or possibly swapping the entire intake assembly. What else could I check/change? It's got to be something on the engine itself (doesn't it)? Help!

Not sure if it makes a diffrence... but did you swap them back.. being that the donor ECU was for an auto not a manual? Just a thought. :thumbsup:

Did you replace or just swap both the Crankshaft & Camshaft sensor? Chapter 6-12 section 11 in the Haynes describes how to check the Camshaft sensor to see if its working properly, & Chapter 6-11 section 10 for the Crankshaft sensor :P

I did swap the original ECU back into the car, but did not actually test the cam and crank sensors from the "good car", since they were working prior to the thrown rod, but I do have a Haynes manual and will take a look at testing them tomorrow. Thanks.

Does it throw any codes?

Not sure if you read this part of the " won't start " thread or tried this... :thumbsup:

it maight sound dumb but it happened to me when i changed my motor it would star also there was no spark, and something with the injector also it took us a day to find out it was a plugh under the fuse box that controls the spark signal and some other stuff with the injectors is righ under the fuse box chek it out you never know

Checked several times and no codes.

I did read the threads, and I suppose anything could fail in an instant, but was thinking all relays etc, worked prior to the engine swap and were not changed so should still be good. Also, since the donor engine wouldn't start prior to the swap, was thinking it must be something on that engine itself, preventing the spark/fuel from working properly. May be wrong (wouldn't be the first time) so I'll try to check those items. Thanks for the ideas.

I took a look at the fuse box and all wires seem to be properly connected. Was your problem with the wires at the lower left front corner of the fuse box when viewed from the front of the car? If not, maybe there are other wires I haven't checked, although the wiring harness was not changed with the engine swap, so should be intact. It worked for the previous engine. Thanks for the idea.

Swapped the coolant sensor and still no go.

MINES WASNT CHANGET EIGHTHEER BUT IT HAPEND TO CAME TOFF WEEL LET ME SEEWHEN YOU ATTEMP TO START THE MOTOR IT ROTATES RIGHT.. ITS THE BATTERY AT FULL CHARGE,CHECK THE SPARK PLUGS ON THE NEW ENGINE, IF IT HAS A DISTRIBUTOR OR CRANK ANGLE SENSOR IT MAY BE MES UP IT CHANGES THE TIMING ON THE CAR, CHECK THE COIL PACK....THATS SOME IDEAS THAT I GOT FROM READING THE REPAIR MANUAL FOR 91 TO99 ECLIPSE S VERY USEFULL HOPE IT HELPS GOOD LUCK

EVERYTHING THAT SATY IN THE CAR WHEN YOU TOOCK THE ENGINE OUT SHOULD BE GOO CHECK THE TERMINALS AT THE SENSORS ON THE ENGINE TO SEE IF THEY ARE SENDING OR RECIVING DO A CILYNDER COMPRESION CHECK, CHECK TIMING, AND REMEMBER THE ENGINNE HAS NO FUEL IN IT GIVE IT IGNITION AT LEAST 4 TIMES BEFOR ATTEMPTING TO STAR JUST IN JUCASE YOU HAVEN DON IT IM SURE U DID FOR SOME PEOPLE MAY SOUND SUMB BUT IN THIS CASES ANYTHING COULD BE

The guys doing the swap said the timing was good. I doubt they did anything other than trying to start the car immediately after connecting everything. I'm dumb about this myself. Are you saying you need to "prime" the fuel system prior to start by turning ignition on and off at least 4 times before spinning the engine over? I know there is fuel at the rail, and we got a good shot of fuel from there when cranking the engine over, but the plugs looked dry afterward. Do we have air in the system? If so, how do we get back to where we need to be to start the car? Some things I know, but in this case I don't mind being treated like an ****. Spare no details. Thanks.

Did you try giving it some gas as you start the car? Before you crank it, slightly depress the accelerator about an inch... then try to crank it up... pumping it slightly if necessary. What you are looking for is a "sputter" like it wants to start, but cannot. Eventually it should start if you get sputtering. If you do not get any sputter... it may most definitely be a fuel issue. Check the plugs after you try that too. If they are still dry, I would think that is not right. Because when I had the problem my plugs were soaked in fuel.

Thanks for the info. I really don't know exactly what was done when the guys doing the swap first tried to start the car. I'm trying to line up things to check for later today when I go to where the car is. Will post back on progress (or lack thereof) once I get back. My son is getting very frustrated and now thinks Eclipses are junk. I need to get this thing running to change his mind.