How many faced the problem with the front brake discs deformation?
(Wheel shaking while pressing the Brakes).

that happens to every car on the planet, eventually.

Ever since I started torking my wheel lugnuts when I came home from the garage I have had no more problems. If your lugnuts aren't torked equally and you happen to hit a water puddle when your brakes are hot it may warp or distort the rotor. I have 70000kms on these rotors and they are still good. I just purchased pads which I'm going to replace saturday and the rotors are fine. Tork at 90 foot-pounds for aluminum rims and 100 for steel rims. They also suggest to re-tork a week later but mine never change.

I right there with you!!! I had the same problem and I bought a new set of pads at 30k, changed them, and now I have NO problems.

I noticed that the original pads were shaped differently than the new ones. The edges were more rounded off on the old pads, I think this causes the slight vibration that leads to the defromation. I have heard it rumored that Mitsu is aware of this problem, BUT in order to avoid a recall, they just redesigned the brakes and are changing them when drivers show up to the Stealers to get em changed.

I always torque my wheels.I rotate my tires myself, I have access to a full service repair facility and thousands of dollars worth of specialized tools.) I dont think this caused your problem. My rotors are fine, like I said after I changed the original pads, which took about 15 min on a lift, everything was fine.

On my Outy Turbo I had the problem with vibrations when braking at 90+ km/h as well. I got 45.000 and this problem started from about 35.000 and rising up. However, even when taking care about brake pads and not braking hard for long period or by downhill ride, 45.000 km is enough to wear them.

Just going to have 45.000 inspection, brake pads gonna be changed, will let you know.

As per M.M.E. my car's problem called brake judder.

I had both brake discs and pads renewed on 29,000 km, under M.M.E.

Like I stated I was suppose to change my front pads but when I took everything apart my pads were barely used after 64000KM SO i RETURNED THE PADS TO THE DEALER. The OEM ones lasted 56000Km. My rotors are still through and I make sure my lugnuts are kept torked.

So, when my brake pads were checked after 45.000 km, they were barely used and thick enough to put them back. They have been just perfectly smoothed/polished, so technician scratched them with some abrasive tool. Brake pistons were not stucked or stick, working poperly. After mounting original brake pads back I feel almost no vibrations. And I am very curios about how long will this last.

For sure, I got new pads and I can confirm, that the part number for new ones is different. I did not have chance to see the fifference in shape.

On Saturday I changed my brake pads on front axis. Vibrations at harder braking at 110 km/h or more were really bad...

I was very curious about info about new Mitsu genuine brake pads. Other shape, harder compound mixture. I removed old brake pads after 70.000 km driven. Still more than 1/3 thick. You can see on one of poor quality pictures. I think it is obvious I am relatively "gentle" driver. :)
I was wondering if the vibration is comming only from deformed brake rotors or if brake pads play their role as well. I know I never overloaded my brake rotors with hard and long braking so I knew they can't be deformed so much.

I did 350 kms on Sunday and this morning and vibrations are much lower. On acceptable level and not making me crazy anymore. Rotors change or turning will solve it.

I can't remember the braking force 2 years ago when the car was new, but comparing to the behaviour before pads replacement brakes are more biting and not fading after longer braking or after series of more short but hard brakings. Even when original pads were not worn out.

Sorry, did not make a picture of newer genuine pads MZ690349 (Made in France, label on the second poor quality picture), but they don't have that slot/flute as the original one and they have both sides of the compound block splayed/bevelled.


All 4 brake pistons were in good condition, moving smoothly, no damage on rubber gaskets/dust covers and not much dirt on them.

Conclusion: I find the front axle brake system (originally comming from "bit" lighter Lancer EVO 4, I was told) under-sized and at least replacement of brake rotors and pads is recommended. Changing only brake pads can bring very positive results as well. I got positive references on EBC YellowStuff brake pads. Even when Outlander Turbo / CU2W is not mentioned in EBCs product line, they produce pads which fit Outy Turbo (in catalogue probably some Lancer equivalent).

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Guys,

as my new brake pads are "adapting" to brake rotors/discs, vibration at braking went less and less sensible !!! Now in my opinion it is not more than 10% of the original shaking.
That means that my brake discs are in relatively good condition and are not seriously warped. And it means that the problem is either with low quality of original pads or with wrong caliper construction. May be when pads are under 1/2 of their thickness and brake pistons have to be pushed more out of their cylinders/seatings (I had to push them back by ca 1,5cm to insert new pads), there is a play between piston and its seating and the piston vibrates. Or it is a combination of these 2 issues.

To everyone who believes that his brake disc shouldn't be warped, but feels shaking, I recommend to change brake pads for at least new Mitsubishi Genuine MZ690349. Some EBC or other premium brand may be even better.

For the cost of new rotors, I now change rotors everytime I change pads. The last time I changed my brakes it cost me 162$ Cdn delivered to my house for new drilled rotors matching pads and stainless steel guide plates for caliper brackets. So every 2 years worn or not I replace these and I have peace of mind. Subject: "Brake Job 2004 Outlander" has pictures of my last brake job.

Yep, this is the most effective solution, no doubt. Problem occures if you drive the car only 1 year or only 9 months and vibration comes. But as I wrote, this shouldn't repeat after first change of original low quality OEM pads.

Wish we had such options when getting new brake discs here in Europe. I tried to find some drilled/slotted rotors, and I found only in US. Shipping is extra 200-250 bucks... :P

On a daily driver you don't need slotted rotors. The purpose for the slots is to shave the brake pads ever so slightly every time you brake to stop them from glazing. Under rally or racing condition this improves brake fade performance but under daily driving it just increases pad wear by about 20%.
For your information my Outlander a 2004 has drums in the back. I did those brakes this year for 170$ dilivered to my house from R1Concepts this include new DRUMS, new SHOES and a complete set of springs and clips even the adjuster.

here are mine , it was one of the best choices when i buyed them ...you should too !
we have same bad roads as you got in your country , with drill and slot rotors, i stop in no minute, and WOW ... just great stuff !
here are pics with mine got from R1concept , best brakes ever had:



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Only you know what you need and I know the slotted drilled rotors work great and the r1concept ones are super. Mine work great....... Subject : Brake Job 2004 Outlander