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 Amp Wiring
 
lazylilsnoop
post Oct 7 2007, 01:53 AM
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i was wondering which amp connection should i use?
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1st or 2nd
both Sub r SVC at 4 Ohm
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bobthecow
post Oct 7 2007, 09:48 AM
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well, if they are both single coil 4ohm, you pretty much have no choice. You have to wire them both to seperate channels. Unless that is, you have an amp that will run at 2ohms on a bridged connection. There are a bunch that cannot, but there are also plenty that can. You need to read the specs on your amp to see if the bridge can handle a 2ohm load.
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lazylilsnoop
post Oct 8 2007, 07:11 PM
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hmm, i threw all the boxes away.

anyway what's written on the amp is "500 Watt 2Ohm RMS"

Subs are 400 Watt Max, SVC, 4Ohms

so which diagram should i follow?

by the way how the Cap is connected dosent make a difference right?
Power > Distributer > Cap, Amp
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bobthecow
post Oct 8 2007, 07:33 PM
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The wiring to your amp is all correct. If the amp bridge says 2ohm, then you can run them each to the bridge channel(IE figure 2).
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phil306
post Oct 8 2007, 08:06 PM
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not to get be mean but caps do almost nothing except add another load to your alt. you'd be better off upgrading your charging like big 3 wiring and maybe a HO alt than to get a cap
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bobthecow
post Oct 9 2007, 01:37 AM
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blah blah blah, big 3... worthless. Cap is better... but it is all opinion. Cap takes extra unused charge. Big 3 sends more charge. IMO cap = better.
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phil306
post Oct 9 2007, 02:48 PM
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unless thats a really high end amp i doubt it could run a 1 ohm per channel. just my 2
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phil306
post Oct 9 2007, 03:08 PM
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QUOTE(bobthecow @ Oct 9 2007, 01:37 AM)
blah blah blah, big 3... worthless. Cap is better... but it is all opinion.  Cap takes extra unused charge. Big 3 sends more charge. IMO cap = better.
*




wow you have to be an **** to believe that. im sorry to keep fighting with you but well you say alot of things that don't make sense. i have never seen a car that competes in db drag or any kind of spl competition that uses caps to upgrade thier charging. i have seen many caps in cars owned by people who want to buy something extra to put in thier car to look cool. usually these kids know nothing about car audio. caps increase the load on the alt but only discharge once when the voltage drops. then its pulling from the alt again. with big 3 the wires that carry the voltage are larger aka more room for higher voltageand less voltage drop. meaning you amp is operating at ~13V, instead of ~12 with stock wiring, which causes your amp to have higher output.

so bobthecow do some research
its a fact not just my opinion BIG 3 WIRING UPGRADE>>>>>>caps
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bobthecow
post Oct 9 2007, 05:06 PM
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I already went to school for this at a place called Mobile Dynamics in Tempe, Arizona. I know what I am talking about.

First of all, capacitors take unused charge from a battery/alt. and input it into the amp. My cap runs a 14.8v, so I have no idea what you are talking about with only having 12.

Second, everybody that competes in those things has some sort of capacitor device, it keeps the car from shutting off while not running when the system is on. If you didn't know, adding big wires is not going to keep your battery or alt. from draining when the vehicle is off. A capacitor does. At audio competitions, your engine does not run, therefore you must have a capacitor. Even a 1 farad will let you blare a system for about 6 minutes. Most people in car audio comps have a 5,10, or even 25 farad cap.

Plain and simple, the capacitors purpose is not to upgrade a charge, but to allow a for a longer charge. People who use it to upgrade a charge are stupid.
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bobthecow
post Oct 9 2007, 05:10 PM
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QUOTE(phil306 @ Oct 9 2007, 02:48 PM)
unless thats a really high end amp i doubt it could run a 1 ohm per channel. just my 2
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If he has 2 4ohm svc subs, and he bridges them, it will only be a 2ohm connection. He only needs a 2ohm stable amp.

diagram
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phil306
post Oct 9 2007, 05:38 PM
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QUOTE(bobthecow @ Oct 9 2007, 05:10 PM)
If he has 2 4ohm svc subs, and he bridges them, it will only be a 2ohm connection. He only needs a 2ohm stable amp.

diagram
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he's bridging a 2 channel amp 2ohm bridged on 2 channels equals 1 ohm per channel
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phil306
post Oct 9 2007, 06:16 PM
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QUOTE(bobthecow @ Oct 9 2007, 05:06 PM)
I already went to school for this at a place called Mobile Dynamics in Tempe, Arizona. I know what I am talking about. 

First of all, capacitors take unused charge from a battery/alt. and input it into the amp. My cap runs a 14.8v, so I have no idea what you are talking about with only having 12. 

Second, everybody that competes in those things has some sort of capacitor device, it keeps the car from shutting off while not running when the system is on. If you didn't know, adding big wires is not going to keep your battery or alt. from draining when the vehicle is off.  A capacitor does. At audio competitions, your engine does not run, therefore you must have a capacitor.  Even a 1 farad will let you blare a system for about 6 minutes.  Most people in car audio comps have a 5,10, or even 25 farad cap.

Plain and simple, the capacitors purpose is not to upgrade a charge, but to allow a for a longer charge. People who use it to upgrade a charge are stupid.
*



you would get laughed at at a spl comp if you had a cap to sustain power for the amps. all truely competitive spl cars use additional batteries to power the amps. NO CAPS AT ALL. ive spoken with many spl junkies about this issue and thier opinion was the same. caps are worthless.
even thouugh its yahoo answers these guys are exactly right
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qi...16013340AAdz6yj
caps are useless HO alt and big 3 and a better batt are the best possible upgrades for charging issues
period
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lazylilsnoop
post Oct 13 2007, 07:40 PM
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lol, so many conflict.

anyway i reckon my amp is ****... or under power

so thinking of getting a new ones.

was looking at a few brands but dont know which 1 suits mine

i) Pioneer GM-7300M

ii) Alpine MRP-M650

iii) Soundstream CLASS D2 Series

iv) Fusion EN-AM8001

my Subs spec are:
- 400Watt, SVC, 4Ohm(Brand:Fusion)

budget less than $300
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bobthecow
post Oct 14 2007, 04:40 PM
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The pioneer will give you the most power, but it is unclean. The alpine will give you a really good clean sound to your subs.
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phil306
post Oct 14 2007, 07:42 PM
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QUOTE(lazylilsnoop @ Oct 13 2007, 07:40 PM)
lol, so many conflict.

anyway i reckon my amp is ****... or under power

so thinking of getting a new ones.

was looking at a few brands but dont know which 1 suits mine

i) Pioneer GM-7300M

ii) Alpine MRP-M650

iii) Soundstream CLASS D2 Series

iv) Fusion EN-AM8001

my Subs spec are:
- 400Watt, SVC, 4Ohm(Brand:Fusion)

budget less than $300
*



first off is the 400W peak power or rms? alot of companies will list subs at peak power which really doesn't mean anything. so look to see if thats max or rms.
if the subs are 400wrms then you will want to get a 2 channel amp that is rated 400Wrmsx2@4Ohms
i've only tried one alpine amp and i wasn't satisfied. thats just my opinion and it was only one of thier amps so they might possibly make better amps by now
try looking at phoenix gold amps. <great budget amps
also try memphis amps. they are a little more pricey but well worth it and very efficient. look at rockford fosgate as well they make some decent amps.
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lazylilsnoop
post Oct 15 2007, 06:58 AM
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i reckon its 400Watt Max

by the way, in the alpine manual i downloaded from the net, it says
600 Watt RMS x 1 (2 Ohms)
400 Watt RMS x 1 (4 Ohms)

so do i still connect my subs in parallel?

n the other problem of the alpine is the connection of the power, ground n remote. i need to attach a fork terminal to it. how do i connect it? i couldn't find a 4 gauge fork terminal... any idea?

As for pheonix gold amps, its pretty hard to get other brand then commercial brands here in Melbourne, Australia. Commercial as in alpine, soundstream, audiobahn, rockford, kickers, clarion, cadence

so yeah... was thinking of getting the alpine....

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