Hello!

My lambda sensor is placed before the race-cat, the evos has it after the cat. You´ll send bad info to the ECU otherwise.

Also, consider to map it after rebuilding the downpipe to 3 inch one and also new exhaust with low resistance silencer + racecat. If not you set all settings in the ecu with the std exhaust which have one of the worst resistance ever seen in a factory car and the gain of effect will be noticed but not to much difference. There´s no turbo car that reacts so much on a new exhaust system with 3 inch downpipe. A new map on top of this will give you lot´s of torque and horespower increase. You´ll reach almost the double increase with map+downpipe+cat+exhaust.

Because if you map the car you have sall ettings adjusted for std exhaust with bad exhaust evac, extreme resistance from exhaust and two catalysators etc etc. The car will run with these settings even if you rebuild exhaust after this. If you do this vice versa starting with new exhaust + map later, you notice considerable increase. PLEASE don´t let any tuning company tell you otherwise, it´s physically impossible.

Anyhow, think about this and you´ll have the car you have been longing for. Pls mail www.arctictuning.se for questions, their map is even better and smoother.

BRGDS Tomas

im gonna do a mapping after i have done the exhaust later,also the tuning company have told me to do so.
but i dont understand why you have both o2 sensors before the cat,isnt it post and pre cat o2 sensors?
the first is to check engine mix?and the 2nd is to check if the cat is working?
if you have it before race cat its not possible to check if the cat is working

arctic tuning is better and smoother?because??
they just estimate what you can get,ecutek has it on paper.that has a lot to do with my decision.and with the dyno i can say what i have,not just "i have 300bhp with exhaust and map".i would like to see the car that get 50bhp with just another exhaust.







Jag har tyvärr inte bromsat någon av bilaran då vi har 530km enkel väg till en bromsutrustning.
Men jag skulle gissa ca 240hk och 360nm original Ca 265hk 390-400nm med race system

Med vänliga hälsningar
Arctic Tuning
Daniel Gällman

EcuTeK Fas 1.1 Outlander

Effekt/vrid: ca 250hk/400Nm

Specifikation:
EcuTek installation och individuell programmering med bredbandslambda etc.
HKS Super Hybrid panelfilter

Tidsåtgång:
4-5 timmar

Pris: 9.300 kr
JRM RACING

Hello!

Yes I know about Ecutek, I had direct contact with the guys who developed the system to overide the std ECU. I was also scheduled to do the first Map in Scandinavia for them! In Sweden I know JRM and they are tip-top in all ways, really pro:s. Though I tried then and compared two EVO 9 made by Turbocenter/Arctictuning and JRM.

The car from T/A was smother when driving it and gave more "power" when gave full throttle. The way the power came was better/quicker and also more even but with a punch at the end.

I did not try myself the Outlander from JRM and Ecutek but from what I hear it´s really great stuff. One guy who have tested my and also one Ecutek car was impressed by my car. I don´t want to go into details but I had nice comments about power and how it´s building up power + smothness if driving like my wife.

As you know I´ve been waiting a loooong time for the Map possibility so I tried ALL to get more power before this without doing any crazy things like increasing boost purely with any other parameter.

Though, we measured to Turbopressure with std car. Oce more with only big/2nd cat removed. 3rd time with downpipe, new exhaust and racecat. I could touch the throttle this third time. The car was "cutting" instantly when I gave throttle. Only way was calmly giving throttle at 4 gear and trying here to measure pressure.

The car gave then 1,25 bar at -3 degrees.
( Normal std is 0,82 and short peak just under 1,0 bar at 3500 rpm). I had to lower the pressure via the wastegate as much as possible and for 8 shitty months I was HUNTING a map possibility. The car was cutting all the time. So nice when they solved the overriding programme of the ECU. :)

Car is running great now. Remember that figures are only estimating aslo from Ecutek/JRM, no dynotest They want to measure my car since they have never tried one with so much power. I have to be out of car for 4 days so I doubt I have the possibilty. It would be nice of course but as long as I know how quick it is I will se how I will do with that.

In +4 degrees I see how quick it is compared to my closest neighbours Volvo S 60 R, BMW:s, Audis, etc. Car is out of traction=wild spinning 215 mm wide tires on all the way on first gear. Impressive. I will do a proper GPS measure of the acc later!

I will not guess but I know why they want to measure my car on the dyno, it gives a lot of HP/Torque. When pulling a trailer that wheighs 1500 kg the car is strong as hell, if a bit slippy it´s spinning in upwards slopes. :) on 4th gear.

About the lambda check under your car. The second should be before the last cat, I may remember wrongly but check under the car.

//TOJ

wich EVO do i buy the pump for??its 2 options on my norwegian dealer...

In-tank kit, Walbro 255L/h til Mitsubishi EVO IX

OR

In-tank kit, Walbro 255L/h til Mitsubishi EVO IV/V/VI

about the o2 sensor TOJ,yes it is before my second cat...but i guess that is because its checking that the 1st one works..
so if i replace my exhaust with just one cat i have to have the second o2 AFTER the cat....since its just 1 there

I think for E8 / E9. the E6 has a little bit different type and the Outlander has built on E7/8/9.

Hello also.
I have build also a complete new exchaust since 10 days now and I have to say that I am really pleased. I kept only the main cat (possibly replacing it with a race cat in the future) while for the lamda I placed a special adaptor there so as to "fool" the sensor so as to avoid the check lamda lamp to be on.
Now I am going for the remapping. Local tuner here has made a dynotest on a standard Outlander which gives 41 hp and 4 kgm more. I suppose that these numbers will be much more with the new exhaust...
A question to TOJ:
You mentioned that the tuning parameters will be different if we speak for a standard car of for a car that has the exhaust modified. Why is that? Here the local tuner claims that the program will be the same.

Hello Botzos!

The tuning companys tend to say that. If they just install a std programme you´ll have the same parameters (fuel, iginition, turbopressure etc) in both cases. A true mapping is when you adjust the parameters to all new components.

In these cars the exhaust evac is truly the worst that can be found and also the lamda figure are around 0,65. The optimap is as close to 1,0 as possible but race cars run around 0,92 etc. Theses car flushes petrol in the engine at high rpm:s. and also at low the tend to flush with petrol which gives bad response, high consumption and also bad power.

If you map the car with std exhaust you CAN NOT raise the parameters turbopressure, fuel, ignition as if with other exhaust, downpipe etc. This because the exhaust will be "braking" the exhaust fumes of getting out the exhaustsystem, this means high temperature and wrong lamda figures. The ECU will notice this directly and increase fuel in the engine to cool it down. If it can´t cool it it will lower pressure or cut engine.

In my car I´m running 1,35 Bar all the time. I have special air intake with a wing that steers cold air directly into the intake, I have Intercoole fan installed and map is done with a perfect system which doesn´t brake exhaust. I also have filter, new BOW etc.

Thing is if they claim that there is now difference they are thinking about installing same as what you do when you "chip" the car=equal to some std upgraded version for the ECU. If cars ECU notices high temp it will increase fuel with lamda falling down to let´s say 0,7. This with lower turbopressure gives almost the same car as std.

My car is running lamda just under 0,9 which is a big difference when it comes to response, power, how it truly roars to 8 000 rpms.

If you start mapping with std exhaust you need to map it again when changing beacase parameters is already set for std exhaust and the will not just increase in the computer/ecu by changing downpipe/exhaust. If they claim this, please DO not listen. That´s a pure lie if so.

When mapping with std exhaust you can´t have same turbopressure and not same parameters as I have. You need lower pressure and other settings. I would suggest to check if they really map the car or install a std programme. If not contact some of Ecutek or Arctic Tuning. I dont know if you have downpipe installed. If so you have already noticed what an increse only by that. If you can afford install and replace the big cat and get a real map after this.

This weekend I pulled a gigant trailer in snowy roads in the mountains, up and down in the slopes. I held around 110 km/h with 1 100-1200 kg load and like a big windcatcher behind the car. Car consumed 13L/100 km. We have to cars of Outy Turbo. The other is std car and it consumed 17-18L/100km.

Before Arctic Tuning made my car I was supposed to do my car at JRM with Ecutek and we discussed a lot this differencies with or without exhaust/downpipe. Since these cars have the worst evac to be noticed...in cars. You see what adramtic change only exhaust/downpipe, racecat gives to the car. Pls do this first and then a real map. They want to measure my car on a dyno in Stockholm.... it´s 1 000 km from where I live and problem is I cant be without the car that many days. If there´s a gap in my calender they can borrow it to do this.

Remember that in Sitzerland they measured the std Outy car to approx 220 Hp. The EVO 9 in Sweden they say gives 285 Hp. When measuring it on Rototest, best dynotest in the world with very exact figures used by Auto Motor and Sport Sweden/Germany, the Evo 9 gave 301 Hp.

When running approx 1,35-1,4 bar you should have a lot of Hp/torque. My car whissels all the time in high upwards slopes on 5 gear with the big trailer behind. If I go down to 4 gear and it is just hint of snow it skids directly when pushing the pedal on all 4 wheels in 85 km/h. Stronger than Turbo Diesels :) //Toj

Hi Toj,

What's the diameter of your exhaust system?
Downpipe, catback etc?

Hi TOJ.
Thanks for the comments.
As said before I have already changed the whole exhaust/downpipe (excluding cat). I will not risk of sending my ecu by courier to ArticTuning so I will perform the remapping here in Greece.
A friend of mine who did the programming here is very satisfied wih the result.
However as said the tuner said to me that the parameters (more or less) are the same. I may be do also the dynotest prior & after to see the actual gain...

Regards

Hello Evolander!

3 inches all the way. As straight under car as possible, no turns. Take away the first small cat and only one racecat under car.

If mapping pls do after building this. Many mistakes done by otherwise. I was in contact with Ecutek all the time when the solved the overwriting of the ECU and are into details around the tuning of theses cars. Big difference in how much power you can have and how the car build up power if the parameters are set after building this downpipe + exhaust. You can never run on same turbopressure or lamda (fuel/air mix), ignition, air/fuel intake. All seetings change if engine don´t have to force the exhaust out. Therefor build this first and map later. Many HP and Torque to gain if so. Impossible mathematics to gain the same when mapping before building exhaust on these cars. You can never run on same settings as I have with std exhaust, The engine would burn and crash really quickly and tahts not nice :) I have lean fulemix, high turbopressure 1,35-1,4 bar and all settings that fills combustions chambers to maximum. Impossible to have this setting of the car wasn´t breathing nicely. Map first and you´ll loose a lot. since this car has one of the worst settings as standard car that tuners ever seen. It drowns the engine in fuel. Not nice if you want power, you need correct mix and of course migh need fuel to cool.

//TOJ

Toj all well noted with thanks, however i still wonder whether the car meets the gas emissions standards then or not.

Hello from TOJ!

I was wrong about where I have the lamda. It´s mounted during mapping just after racecat.

For the rest the pics show a VERY dirty Outy Turbo since we have melting period up here in Lapland from all snow. Yesterday 30 cm snow came again. In one month it´s time for the big recond (total cleaning inside+outside+engine+waxsealing etc). But one pics show the ving I have built in steel to steer in more cold air, the faster I drive the more air. It´s 25 cm long an mounted under the "grill". 2nd pic show the cooling fan, 3rd pic the straightness of my exhaust directly from turbo straight out, 4th the race cat and the lamda, 5th pic from behind. Sorry but low resolution and lot´s of dirt but anyhow. The cooling fan I can switch on/off from car.

In three weeks from now it´s time for the new summerwheels :)

//TOJ

Attached thumbnail(s)

Hello!

I´ve been testing my filter to the car for along time. Putting in/out/in/out etc. I saw that when Dynotesting a EVO 9 they did not get any more Hp/torque with the filter. I have cold air intake and with that I notice some more response since I´ve built a "spoilerwing" that leads cold air directly into the intake. The faster I go the more airflow. With this I noticed some difference.

With the new filter/panelfilter compared to original I have better sound, perhaps a little better response but not much. Cooler sound though!

When I see dyno-/rototest of the Evos:s the also couldn´t measure any difference with the original/exchange filters. Though if you lead cold air into the engine this will give more response/effect.

One easy way is also to build a IC-fan, this is nice escpecially in warm days. It at least helps the IC to perform better even if they are really to small a really hot day. The hot summerdays I loose a lot of power since the Turbopressure is lowered by ECU since it cant boost/give the power with that lower airflow-/mass.

My car runs normally 1,35 Bar. Let´s see if I can check during summer.

Summertires tomorrow. Then a few months more with this car before I head, I think, for the Ralliart. :) ...

I like this car a lot so I´ve to see the Ralliart before I gor for that. I also need to know what enginetuning you can do on it. :)

TOJ

Hello!

Just uploaded a video on Youtube (0-200km/h) with my car. Was so angry after been out and a Mercedes tried to overcome me, which he didn´t with his E 420. But i left him only with 30-40 meters to 100 km/h. I was in a redlight he had followed me from the previous red-light. I thought I should show him a bit. I had the engine around 3000 rpm, looked down on the rpm and then up, he was behind me, when I looked up the signal was green=go. So instead of showing him and supposing to have more rpm up around 4200-4500 and then full throttle after leeting the clutch up I let the clutch up at 3000 rpm and engine coughed, like dying sigh ohmffff to 500 rpm, the car coughed up but I lost the acc with the 4x4 in the beginning.. He still was 30-40 m behind even if he had the benefit of my tailwind but anyhow. He was so proud over his heavy Mercedes that I really would like to show him more :)

So angry as I was i recorded a new video, also to see what rpm I need to start quickly. On this new video on Youtube I go from 0-200 km/h. I held the rpm up and down around 4-4500 rpm, still cars drops. Pitty, but still nice video up tomorrow or tonight. I need to be stable around 4500 rpm to make a really quick start.

Anyhow, approx 5,5 sec to 100 with a slight poor start with heavy rolling wintertires :) Tomorrow summertires, looking fwd to it. 0-200 Km/h 24,96. Thses cars are nevertheless which tuning you have quick to 140 km/h, after that it´s like moving a wall through the air.

BRGDS Toj

Oh my god !!! is this yr video Tomas??? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28cu_QR8cM0
Congratulations to all who improved yr Outy... goes like crazy!!! :gunsmilie:

Jepp that´s mine. I was so angry about my BAD showing off for the fat Mercedes and when I didn´t showed his as I wanted since I had too low rpm:s and the car dipped to 500 rpm at start and almost shut off....Even this mistake he of course didn´t had chance even if he was benefitting my slipstream behind me.

But with a nice start I would really show him :) Anyhow, jepp that´s my car. With wintertires. I goes really nice. If I start at 4500-5000 rpm. Then tha car is really quick. As you can see it almost dip on these rpm:s as well. You need steady/stable 4500-4800 rpm to get a quick start. Then the car goes like a rocket. Almost to 55 km/h directly. With spinning 4 wheels :)

Anyhow a nice video even though it´s dipping a bit. To 140 km/h these cars are truly quick. Of course after that as well but these high cars can´t beat the nature laws and press away all the wind they catch the higher speed you have.

But with hard start it´s a really fast car :liebe011:

Toj I calced with my stop watch twice yr 0-100 and found to be 5.0 and 5.1 respectively!
Really great number!!! :clap: