Hello!

I see that many are searching my videos on youtube. There are movies with totally standard car and then my videos. Many of my videos are taken during bad conditions as slippy winterroads, and all of them with wintertires.

If you search on youtube and don´t want to see the standard Outy look for my videos. My alias here is: From:TomasJ12345

Nothing else. The last updated could have been better start, shiftingetc but shows 0-200 km/h on 100% flat road, no downhill. If movie is made downhill even std cars can be quite quick but on flat roads and also from sound you can notice differencies. If a movie on std car seems strange, if you also have std car, be sure they are filming in a downhill area.

Search for Outlander Turbo on youtube.com and then my alias above and you´ll see some of my videos.

:liebe011: TOJ

Tomas I'm about to send my ecu to arctic tuning (Daniel)...
I'll consider for sure next saturday!!!

Great news, for sure you´ll be satisfied!

Serious company! Have you changed downpipe/exhaust etc.?

In that case you cna ask fo my map!

Also one question to alla at the forum: have anyone tried to change to a chargecooler or bigger Intercooler without getting worse response or other negativa aspects. My car reacts considerably on the warm weather we have had up here with lower torque/Hp. Of course it´s running ok anyhow but with +5 compared to 25 degrees it´s a big difference in the engine. The intercooler is a bit to small. I have a fan blowing air over it but anyhow it´s reacting on warm air by lowering boost a bit.

I have a special inlet of air so the air is as cold as it can be. But I always get annoyed of the small IC, could be better.

//TOJ

Downpipe of 76mm without the pre-catalyzator. The rest till the and of 70mm.
Air filter HSK super hybrid one (http://gruppe-s.com/Evo/evoeng/hks_sfilter.htm)Bigger Intercooler is what the Greek improvers claimed also during a discussion.

+25 for Greece is rather winter!
Anyway I hope that the program will still work fine.
I mean I assume that the percentage of the negative effect of the warm weather will be the same if the car is a "standard one" or if it is a "tuned" one.

Hello!

Jepp 25 degrees is winter. You will have the same difference in effect as we have noticed. I mean the std car also have lower of amount of air as standard when it´s warm so the difference between mapped/std car will still be the same so you´ll have a MUCH nicer car.

So you´ll be satisfied!! : :clap:

The difference is not huge for me but would be nice to see how car works with bigger Int cooler.

But as I said you´ll have the same % of increase since yr car is always in warm weather. Though the go like hell when having 5 degrees :) Would be nice to have that inlet temp all the time :) //TOJ

Evolander, have you tuned yr car already or waiting?

Best regards TOJ

Tomas not yet, but I drove Botzos car on saturday!!!
I already bought a second hand intercooler of an evo 9 and I'm about to have a second hand of full set of evo brakes (brembo the front ones).
I didn't make a final decision yet as of the remap.
Reverting.

Hi to all of you.

It is now 10 days since I have tuned my car to Artic tuning/Turbocenter in Sweden.
The project went very well taking into consideration the risks, since I had to de-intall the ecu and send it to Stocholm.
What about the results? Hmmm....
I can say that I lie in the middle. Not very satisfied not disatisfied.
The car no question, is stronger than before. It is even stronger compared to the tuning that was done before by a Greek tuner. It is to be investigated however if it is stronger or not compared to another tuning here in Greece made by an Ecutek dealer. We shall see.
But it is not comparable to what Thomas is describing. Not at all. So the question that arises is: Is this difference caused by the difference in tempartures between the two countries? Or it is something more? And if yes can this be solved by installing a bigger intercooler?
From fuel consumption the things are not good. Instead of 10% descrease I had 10% increase! This was by using my usual 96 octane petrol. Now that I am using 100 octanes things seem much better, but I expect to be somewhere equal to before (but this is not good again since the 100 octane is 10-15% more expensive than the 96 one).
In any case I have to do some more kilometers to reach to more concrete conclusions.
The good thing is that I have a very good communication with the guys that did the program so I expect that sooner or later to solve all these "problems".
Any how I will keep you informed.

FMIC designed for Outlander Turbo


http://www.japanparts.com/db/partslist.php...&maker=&volkey=

http://www.japanparts.com/images/ImageFrom...?base=1&no=2707

Hello Botzos!

I hope you´ll be satisfied. You have very warm climate compared to us up here. So high temp gives lower amount of air/dm 3 when it goes into engine.

But some questions: do you have 3 inch downpipe, racecat + full flow exhaust?

Did you aske them to have same programme/map as I have? There are after they made my car one standard map for a standard exhaust etc engine and one map they used for my car.

My "map" was adjusted on rolling highway since they had it a full day. That means the adjusted parameters etc.

But if you have this new exhaust the should have used a copy of my map? Ask Daniel.

Also, I believe in yr warm countries that a new IC can be a nice investment.

The warmer air you have in the inlet the lower the boost will be since it will otherwise have strange/wrong figures on the lamda. Engine can´t boost if it doesn´t have right air/fuel mix.

Also, octane is important. I use 98 or higher.

The difference I have noticed is when having heavy load, car is stronger and don´t consume as much. Normal driving a bit lower :) in average but I also tend to use throttle to much.

One more question have you asked what boost level you are supposed to have?

If to warm air (wrong fuel/air mix) boost is lowered by ECU. Trying o fool engine when having much more boost can be dangerous.

But please let me know when yoy checked this with them. They have peak-season now so they are VERY busy, heading for 402 m racing in two weeks.

//TOJ

Toj !

What is your boost @ high rpm, 5000-6000 ?

Hello!

Can not see my boost curve where I´m now but I know max boost is 1,35 bar.

Can check better. I know my car shut off at 7850 rpm at to that point it roars wildly.

//TOJ

TOJ.
In my previous mails I explain my modifications. 70mm downpipe and 63mm rest of the exhaust. The cat I kept the same.
And yes they used the same map as yours. However as already said the result is not the same.....
For the gas I am know using 100 octanes without any noticable difference. So this is not the cause of the differences. I can only assume that this maybe caused by the temaratures difference.
I will have ti investigate if an evo 8 or 9 IC can be fit to our cars without any major modifications.
Evolander has opened another topic for that so I will try to post there for this issue.

Hello Botzos!


I saw that topic about new IC, interesting for sure, I will follow this with interest.

Have you changed BOW, also build a simple air intake. see my pics. But I belive it is a question about higher temp in you beautiful country. Good luck!!

//TOJ

I changed the BOW with the one that the guys send me together with ecu.
About the air intake I haven't done anything. I shall see in the future....
On Friday I will do a dynotest to see what is the actual gain...

Hello Botzos!

Today we had really warm in Sweden and of course car is running really ok but a dramatic change to let´s say when we have 15 degrees and even better of course when we have cold temp.

So it can be one difference to performance as we both have been into. I know for sure that my car drops easily lets say 12-18% when really hot.

If I compare to turbo Audi A4 1,8 T+2,0T and S+RS versions, Volvo S60 R, SAAB Turbos, Porsche Turbos, VW Passat Turbo petrol+diesel, Subarus, EVO:s Mitsus etc etc which I either have had or tested they DON`T react as much as this car on warm weather. All tubo cars and others reacts on warm days where oxygen mol. is less/dm 3
but this cars reacts heavily on this warm weather.

From my point it goes so far that I even don´t want to race or push the throttle because of disapoinment of the cars performance....a warm day.

Trust me, I don´t want someone to challange me these days since I know that cars that I for sure would beat at under +20 I will loose against at +28 degrees.

I have asked those who really knows Turbo engines, PRO:s, and they always answer that : " all turbo cars runs worse in hot weather".

Though I do NOT agree since all Turbo cars I have had have MUCH bigger Intercooler than our cars AND do NOT react as much as our Outlander on warm air. For sure it has to do with to small IC. With great interest I will follow if someone has positive report about great working bigger IC without lower response.

//TOJ

I believe the Front Mount InterCooler (FMIC) can be of the same volume as the original TMIC and the performance will be better with not increasing the turbo lag. One thing is size of the intercooler but its position and cooling-air flow-rate are important as well.

First: See the "sectional surface size" of the air inlet (hole) in our bonnets. It is equal to approx 10cm x 20cm = 2 square dm, am I right? So regardless from the FMIC size the available air flow rate is limited by the hole size.

Second: Let's have IC of the same inner volume (cca 4 liters), one with lets say 40x15cm = 6 square dm surface. Yes, the original FMIC is about the same surface size. But if this second 40x15cm IC is mounted in the front bumper's air-dam exactly perpendicular to the air comming through the IC, then those 6 square dms are cooled better with much greater (at least 3x greater) mass of air. And this FMIC does not suffer by heat comming from engine bay when the car waits for green light...

Third: The mass of air flowing to the FMIC is allmost not affected by the aerodynamics of the moving vehicle. I would bet that the airflow comming into the bonnet inlet for the original TMIC is seriously damaged and diverted by the aerodynamic effects at the front of the car. You know for sure what I am talking about. And if you don't, read this article. So the mass of air comming into the 2 square dm big hole is even smaller, means even lower air flow rate and even lower TMIC efficiency.

I plan to change the TMIC for not big FMIC and to use the original inlet for TMIC as an inlet of cool air for the engine. The air will be under some small pressure right since entering the inlet system, means some extra boost even when turbo is not spinned-up = a bit less turbo lag. But first I have to solve the problem with air filter placement and separating water from the air sucked in...

When my friend Outlander tuned by Ecutek we coud see the intake temp ( built in to the MAF sensor so it so closed to the airfilter- stock intake was ) which was +10-12 celsius more hotter as the outside temp ! It is so much diff !
Anyway the Ecu can compensate you are in the high mountain or at hotter temp outside ! Maybe this compensation is to safe similar as 0,59lambda at highrev with the stock program.
The problem with stock intercooler is the engine is heating it hard !


My question :

When others car tuned by Ecutek or flashed with other method, coud you log the engine load and the A/F from the first o2 ? Or maybe at any one used wideband o2 ?

i am using SIMTEC ecu in my Subaru and it was tuned by our tuners in Turkey.
we r using innovate to see afr, but i couldnt understand what u mean while telling 'coud you log the engine load and the A/F from the first o2 ? '.
On the other hand all turbo cars dont necessaryly have it has fmic or tmic the car can lose boost in hot weather cause in cold weather motor receives more air(rules of physics).

in my outlander my boost is 1.35 during winters with td04 turbo and stock tmic, in summer it is around 1.25 bar.
in my subaru my boost is 1.75 bar during winter with FP green and fmic , in summer it is around 1.65.