On the high end of the price, fully polished, silicone couplers, solid pipes up top, welds ground down and finished with the intercooler and all labor, $2300 built right on your car to fit perfectly. Bottom end of the price, pre polished piping, exposed welds, a few couplers up top, you supply the intercooler, probably $1700 built on the car.

The kits I do are very time consuming, they take several days worth of work, the end results are show worthy, functional, and fit very well. There are many kits out there as low as maybe $600 with premade piping, couplers, and an intercooler.
These most of the time function just fine, they do not look quite as well though, and definately almost always have fitment issues that will require you to make your own modifications to the piping and parts on your car to fit up properly.

A little to rich for my blood.


Turbos came in today.

(IMG:http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h103/Blackdiamond512/0117081738.jpg)

PS these things are small... :(

The last turbo I saw was off a Mack truck.

The difference... these will eat my finger the mack, I could almost stick my head in.

Bills schmills! The way you have to approach this build, is to do it right this time, so you don't end up back here in a few months, or a year. The 13g's will cost you a little extra. Hell, have those little snails sent away for 15g's. I went the GT2871R's route as I didn't want to be thinking about turbo's in 6 months, or a year. Something to seriously consider. ;)

Scotty

I under stand your reasoning and I really don't have an excuse, so I'll be happy for a while, then I'll start my next project.

but how much power are you looking for? since your only FWD how much can you car handle before you lose all traction?

The tt conversion I just did is all stock except for exhaust and intake, stock boost at 9psi, and it rips the hell out of the tires in 2nd at any speed. No need to dump the clutch, just a smash of the pedal and its all over the place. I don't know what he's going to do when we turn up the boost.

I spin in first without dumping the clutch. I avoid doing that my philosophy is to get the car moving then mash the gas.

My goal is BPU, keep it reasonably priced, do it myself, stay busy.

End result:
Just a fun car to putz around in till I bring the boxer home.

sounds good. i was just worried about traction cuz i can spin the tires in third on my car and i'm only around 220. and you'll be at like 320 right? or even higher i guess.

Motor mounts-

Solid?
Poly?
OEM?

i just bought the solid mounts from maximal performance. Theres no core charge and they only cost $195 apposed to the 400+300 core for poly at 3sx. + i've heard a lot of good things about the solid weld mounts. so i'd say go with the solid welds.


Personal opinion

hope it helps

Let me know how the car is once you have them installed. I'm not entirely thrilled about being rattled to death at idle.

I'll be sure to let you know. But from what i'm told it's NOT that bad...i've heard of a lot of guys running the solids and they have no complaints about the idle. They say it vibrates a bit..but i'll definitely let you know...they should be here by monday and i'm going to go right ahead and install them. ...i'll get the plugs and wires in there and fire it up and get right on here and let you know..<3



Eric (the other Eric)..haha

Thanks bro.

And your **** right your the other Eric. ;)

Best to go solids on the bottom, stock up top. The bottom rear takes most of the force of the engine, and by keeping the top ones stock you allow the engine some room to move and absorb some of that vibration so it is not so rough. I do custom solid mounts, if you send me your bottom two, I will make them into solid mounts for $100.

Thanks I will keep this in mind.

Hey have you ever been to the east coast gathering, and do you plan on going this year?

I plan on going.

so for the drive train.. what are you doing about axles?
and your keeping it stock high compression?
im sorry if im asking answered questions but it wont let me view your second page.
im doing the same as you, except a total rebuild and i cant decide whether to use low comp. or high comp. pistons on the bottom end..... what would seem like the best bet ?

I'm trying to change as little as possible.

I answered some check your other thread.

I'm keeping my stock axles till they leave me stranded.

For you I would go with lower compression and crank that boost up to compensate.