1994 Verada - Stalling when idling in hot weather.
Hi All :)
I have a problem that has been plaguing my car for about a year now. I have taken it to two different mechanics and they both have fixed different things (which will explain below) but to no avail. I was hoping that somebody may know something, or have a similar experience and perhaps could offer some suggestions. Here are the details.

Car: Mitsubishi Verada V6ei 1994, Automatic.

Symptoms: Car only stalls in warm/hot (i.e. >25deg C) weather when idling and when the engine is warm. The car doesn’t start immediately upon a stall, but if you let it sit for about 10 min, it starts up again. (If the weather is cold, the car works perfectly)

Things that have been repaired to try to fix it: Computer chip scan/reset, fuel system pressure check (and is fine), distributer replaced.

Any ideas?? Any similar problems?
If you need any extra info just reply here and ill answer the best I can.
Thanks in advance, Jez.

might be electrical with the thermatic fans or the aircon system kicking in

fuel and engine manegement ruled out

I would be looking at the temp sender for the auto
that links to the tcu and engine computer

plugs / dirty injectors/coil /air flow meter

if it has cruise control I would get that checked

Thanks for your tips. Yeah, it does have cruise control –seems to work fine though.
I will definitely tell the mechanic of your suggestions when I get it checked in at a new place (for the 3rd time!). I’ll keep you posted as to how it works out, or if they find a different problem.
Cheers!

When they scanned the computer, did it throw any trouble codes? Did the mechanic tell you what the codes were? I don't know how it is by you, but in the U.S. many of the parts stores will do a diagnostic scan for you for free in the hopes of selling you the parts to fix it. You might want to explore that option before going back to a mechanic.

Hmmm I’m not too sure if it threw any errors. I just remember them saying something like, “we did a scan of the computer, and it’s all fine”. They also ‘reset’ it (whatever that means). Argh, I really want to get this fixed before the long hot Australian Christmas.

Having said that, perhaps I will take it to a new place for a free scan (if they exist in Aust.) and see if they come up with something new. It cant hurt and you never know I guess.

Someone said to me that putting better petrol in it i.e. 98 Octane (instead of the usual 95) may help. – But it’s a bit of effort emptying a cars tank without driving it when its over 20degC. I’ll just have to siphon it. What do you think, might it help?

I highly doubt that is either the cause or solution to the problem you've described. A lower octane level is known for causing knock (detonation), but not so much stalling that is dependent on atmospheric conditions. I would lean more to a sensor or something on the throttle body.

The fuel system is a logical place to start looking, but personally I would also want the mechanic that replaced the distributor to explain to me how he expected that to fix the problem. I'm not a mechanic, but I'm not totally green either and it makes no sense to me.

Also, was the fuel system pressure checked under the conditions that cause the stalling, or was it checked in cold weather or when the engine was cold?

Thanks – That saves me getting out the siphon! I never really thought that the fuel change would have helped either, but I’m just desperate for ideas. Could a sensor actually be broken maybe? Telling the computer the engine is hotter than it is? (the dash temp gauge always says its fine) causing the engine to shut down?


I agree, especially because we got the fuel pump changed a while back and that seems to be around the time the troubles started. I told the mechanic that and they did a ‘pressure check’ and ‘fuel system check’ (whatever they specifically mean) and apparently it was fine.

I also agree, I was confused when they said they should change the distributor –even in my limited understanding of cars, I don’t understand how that is the problem. Especially as the car starts up again after 5min of rest (if it’s mildly warm only. If it’s really hot it never starts). I guess your right anyway, we got it replaced and the problem is still happening, so it definitely wasn’t the distributor.

No it wasn’t, it was checked on a colder day. This is a problem, because you have to book a mechanic about a week or so in advance and you can’t be guaranteed it will be a hot day. The ideal situation would be to have a mechanic look at it on a really really hot day when it doesn’t start. Actually just writing this, I have had an idea. The next really hot day I think I will call the RACV or Lube Mobile (both are mobile mechanics) and get them to have a look at it while the car is not working at all.
Thanks!

ask about this problem in these two forums

there is a lot of the same faults posted

they could put you on to a better mechanic or have a solution

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/

http://www.mitsubishiclubaustralia.com/forums/

Cheers buddy, Ill get onto it right away!