So some friends and I decided to go to the drag strip to see what our cars could run. We did 3 runs. I thought I would get in the low 15's in my stock GST... NOPE.

I lined up and got ready to get my tires warmed up. I have never been able to do a stationary burnout so I wanted to try it (Still don’t know how, if anyone could tell me what to do please do). I put up my e-brake and rev it and drop the clutch. I remembered that someone told me a while back to press on the brake so I let off the gas (don’t know why) and pressed the brake and my car stalled. Felt like a noob. Quickly turned the car on and went to the line. Green light goes so I drop the clutch and my tires started spinning then the turbo kicked in and started spinning some more. Got to the end and got a horrible 16.5. I was pretty pissed cuz my time but I thought I could do better since I got a horrible launch.

After waiting for a while I get up to the line again against a Dodge Lightning. Spin my tires a little to get ready nothing great AT ALL then pull up to the line. Light goes green and I slowly accelerate and then realize I should press all the way down so I catch up to the Dodge when turbo gets going and when I shift he starts pulling away (shifting at 7k rpm). He gets a 15.1 and I get a crappy **** 16.28 now I am really pissed and dyeing to break into the 15's.

My last race I raced another lightning and he also got a 15.1 and I got another sad 16.25.

Before I got there I didn’t realize that I broke my outer tie rod end. Not sure if that had something to do with me getting a crappy time. If you don’t know what that is it is part of the suspension the one going to my passenger side tire.

Not sure what to blame the crappy times on because I raced my friends civic and he said he got a 14.5 and I have beaten him before. Taking my car to the dealership because I heard it was a big pain in the **** to replace the tie rod ends. YAY for labor costs when the part only costs like $15.

If anyone has replaced there’s can you let me know if it is easy?

Also realized that my car’s rev limiter is not just past 7, I think it can go to 8.5. Need to find out what the power band is.

You should be mid 15's with a stock GST. Personal best in a stock gst with a blown rear strut is a 15.4

There is no need to warm up your tires either. Stay clear of the water box get the car moving and then romp on it. I think I was launching around 2500-3000 rpms. (was a while ago) Hold the RPMs steady and then slip the clutch out don't dump it. Dumping it is just going to make you spin. No need to bang gears either. Remember if your tires are spinning your not going as fast as you can.

Your power drops off around 6200 RPMs if I remember correctly. Also been a while since I looked at a dyno chart for a stock gst.

I think I shifted at redline for 1st to second 6500ish for 2nd to 3rd. and just wound 3rd out I believe.

The important thing is not over revng it because your stock turbo falls on its face above 6000 RPMS and not to spin off the line. SO practice slipping the clutch and you will be a mid 15 car stock.


What size tires?
What octane?
DO you have subs in your car?
How much gas was in the tank.

I pinned a dragracing 101 in this section check it out. And don't worry the first time I ran my scion I got a 16.5 then a 16.6 then a 16.5 then a 15.7. So its all in practice. Good luck next time man. :57:

What size tires? 17's
What octane? 91
DO you have subs in your car? Nope
How much gas was in the tank. About half tank because it takes a while to get out there.

For shits and giggles try 93 octane. I ran with a sub and a full tank of gas. So your going to have to try again. ;) Half a tank is good as well.

so if i step out, i should be able to get in the 15's as well. never been to a track, but i smell it in the future.

By the end of the night there is no reason why you wont be running a 15.7 at least. Both of you.

sweet, and after BPU? and upping my boost(the right way i guess)

faster...

I don't know

and to Ethronx. and to someone with knowledge about altitudes, is where he is at, going to effect his time because of altitude?

i work on engine preformance up at altitude (with aircraft) there is not reason it would affect it a full second. the higher the less efficient the engine (less O2) but the less drag coeficient is there too. for alt of 1ft-5000ft, there is really not much of a notice. not enough to drop a car time by a full second. (again, in theory as i work on aircraft)

Not a full second but a couple tenths.

possible, but in my experience, not likely. AZ alt isn't that high, higest is 4000 something, and thats in flagstaff. he's not there is he? other than that its pretty low i think.

Alright game over you win try again you should be in 15's

ha, don't get upset, i'm just saying what i think.

ahhh he went offline he lost hands down he left the forum that or he had sumthing to do.

This girl I have a thing for was like come over. Sorry guys gonna take that over my car 90% of the time.

Any way people **** and moan about altitude. I just say run the car the best you can.

Altitude will usually have a very noticable effect on a N/A engine, since N/A engines are more dependent on atmospheric pressure to fill the cylinders when the valves open. On a turbo engine with boost remaining at the same levels due to the boost controller/wastegate, you usually wouldn't notice the altitude nearly as much as you would with the N/A. Times corrected to sea level at LACR (approximately 3200' elevation) were almost half second or more quicker than the actual run times depending on conditions for the day. I know I could definetly feel a power increase with my Mustang when I dropped out of the Antelope Valley (3200') back into the San Fernando Valley (around 150').

well, there ya go, i was wrong

Haha you guys are funny. So I decided to take my car to mitsubishi... They looked over the whole car and it is ****ed. I just got the big stuff that I needed right now so I can drive it. New water pump, cv joint, timing belt and some other crap. Spent $1200 so my engine wont blow up on me. I still need all new engine mounts, new hoses and most of the steering stuff like right and left tie rod ends, rack and pinnion (dont know how they are spelt), and a butt load of other stuff. They said for the car to be in perfect mecanical condition I will need to spend about 3k more. :( damn cars. I guess it is possible my car was slow as **** because all that stuff was and is bad.

Get a second opinion.

the people there will tell you you can't find it cheaper, but you can probably find it a lot cheaper.