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> 94 Diamonte Stalling
splatt
post Dec 18 2007, 02:06 AM
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Hi there guys, new to the forum and have a quik question.

I am in desperate need of a cheap car and a co-worker is selling her 94 Diamonte for 1000.00. It has recently had the tranny redone, heads and from what she says its in superb condition. Power everything .. sunroof and it raises as well.. CD player.... I will get a look at it tomorrow. She says that they ( she and he husband ) have documented all repairs and scheduled maintenance.

Three things are making me take pause atm.

1. It has 180k miles

2. Cracked windshield ( but she has a friend with a car dealership that can replace this for 200.00 )

3 She says that it frequently stalls.

Any advice on this car and ideas on the stalling issue?
She recently had a airflow installed but this failed to fix the problem. I am hoping a throttle adjustment and or cleaning will do the trick. Figured I`d ask here in case there are known issues with this year/model stalling.

Thx in advance,
Rob
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jayeddie
post Dec 18 2007, 03:16 PM
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There are alot of questions that need answers before you can pinpoint the cause. For starters, is it a SOHC or DOHC. When does the stalling happen, is it totally random, or is there a pattern as to when it stalls? Does it stall when idling, or when accelerating or decelerating? Does it stall only when it's cold, or only after it gets hot? When was the last time it was tuned up? I've noticed there a some very knowledgeable people on this forum, but you need to give more info.
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splatt
post Dec 19 2007, 12:16 AM
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QUOTE(jayeddie @ Dec 18 2007, 03:16 PM)
There are alot of questions that need answers before you can pinpoint the cause.  For starters, is it a SOHC or DOHC.  When does the stalling happen, is it totally random, or is there a pattern as to when it stalls?  Does it stall when idling, or when accelerating or decelerating?  Does it stall only when it's cold, or only after it gets hot?  When was the last time it was tuned up?  I've noticed there a some very knowledgeable people on this forum, but you need to give more info.
[right][snapback]128530[/snapback][/right]



Good points on more info needed from my end. I saw the car today and it is in very nice condition. She supplied me with a notebook with everything they had done written down along with the corresponding receipts in a folder. I forgot to inquire further about the stalling but if I remember correctly she said that it stalls when idling. She also said that she had the throttle adjusted in the past and that it helped. I have decided to purchase the car. She has taken very good care of it thusfar. I have her getting the window replaced atm and the car will be in my possession on Friday. Then I can supply you guys with all the other info ( SOHC or DOHC etc... ). I will ask her tomorrow exactly when and under what climatic circumstances, if any, that the car stalls. Thx for the reply. I will have more info for you guys to work with tomorrow. Also sometime after the holidays I will have a full tune-up performed and save all my records like she has .

Rob
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Bodeen
post Dec 21 2007, 11:24 AM
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I don't know much. But I DO know that if you disconnect the battery, it'll stall for about the next 40 stops until the computer adjusts the idle step motor. Then it'll be fine. Strange design, I know. :)
This is on a sohc.
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splatt
post Dec 22 2007, 01:07 AM
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Well I got the car Thursday night. I havent had any problems with any stalls. She replaced the mass air flow on 12/08/07 and has had no problems since. I havent had any problems yet myself. One thing that stood out now that i`ve looked further into all the repair records is somthing going on with the right front rotor and bearing.

According to the record book they kept and the corresponding receipts:

12/12/02 Mileage 136218 Replaced right front wheel bearing & rotor.

11/30/04 Mileage 157064 Replaced right front wheel bearing & rotor.

03/26/07 Mileage 181000 Replaced right front wheel bearing.

Anyone see a pattern here?

Are there any known bearing issues with a 94 Diamante?

I also found these records:

03/30/05 Mileage 160000 R&R front struts and mounts.

07/28/05 Mileage 165135 Tire rotation and the it is also noted that there is loosness in the front end and mentions the right side inner tie rod. All I see charged however is 15.80 for the tire rotation.

03/14/06 Mileage 171000 Installed customer supplied parts. Trust angle computerized alignment. Right front lower control...Right rear upper control.
Also mentions ...needs a rear sway bar link but I see no records of its being installed/replaced. I`ll ask her on Monday the situation.

So can the tie rod being loose and the condition of the suspension before it was repaired affect the bearing problem?

Ill post this then I will type in all the data I have for my next post.
Thx for any relies/info/suggestions
Rob
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splatt
post Dec 22 2007, 02:42 AM
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Ok here are all the records that I have receipts for. There are oil changes and small things noted in the book but no receipts. All the major items have receipts though it appears. I will ask Mel on Monday if she can dig up any of the mundane receipts for me ( oil air filter changes etc. ).

12/02/02 Mileage 136172 New transmission.

12/12/02 Mileage 136218 Right front wheel bearing and rotor.

1/07/03 Mileage 136263
Lube,oil & filter
Remove cylinder head
Replace valve guide seals
Reassemble engne
Replace gaskets
Refill cooling system

04/03/03 Mileage 138601 4 new tires

09/30/03 Mileage 143692 Fuel injection service & fuel filter change

? Mileage 143758 Front brake pads & rotors

06/18/04 Mileage 150881
Reinspection
Check for why failed NOX & HC replace catalytic converter
Retest on dyno

08/23/04 Mileage 153149 Towed to shop for stalling
Replaced mass air flow sensor with used part

11/30/04 Mileage 157064 Remove and replace right front rotor and bearing

03/30/05 Mileage 160000 R&R front struts and mounts

07/28/05 Mileage 165135
Tire rotation
Mentions vehicle has trouble running after start up
Looseness in front end right side inner tie rod
No mention of doing anyhtin but the tire rotation

08/30/05 Mileage 166136 Stalling problem.
Burlington Mitsubishi serviced the throttle body and reset the minimum airflow

03/14/06 Bought USP upr rh & USP lwr rh from Mitsubishi
03/15/06 Mileage 171000
Installed Right front lower control and right rear upper control
Mentions needing a rear swaybar link but that is all

06/05/06 Mileage 172992 Replaced starter

01/19/07 Mileage 180000 215/60HR15 HRI (whatever the hell that means)
Computerized high speed balance I guess the above is the code for the tire they had balanced.

03/26/07 Mileage 181000 Right front wheel bearing replaced

12/08/07 Mileage not noted but it was only a few weeks ago so approximately 187700 Replaced mass air flow

12/19/07 New windshield.Was going to be $200 but it was only $175 total. Not bad

Things I don`t have receipts for:
Mileage Date Work performed

121000 09/01/01 Oil & filter
....?.... 4 Tires
131000 04/13/02 Front brakes
132000 06/04/02 Oil & Filter
136000 01/08/03 Oil & Filter plugs
138000 02/19/03 Rotate tires
142000 08/17/03 Oil & filter
147000 02/09/04 Oil & filter,rear brakes & tire rotation
153000 08/09/04 Oil & filter, tire rotation,plugs/wires,air filter & rotor cap
159000 02/01/05 Oil & filter, tire rotation
165000 07/28/05 Oil & filter, tire rotation
171000 02/15/06 Oil & filter, tire rotation
177000 11/01/06 Oil & filter
183000 06/23/07 Oil & filter

Just hoping I won`t have a bearing issue like they had. Any thoughts on some preventative maintenance? Like getting the bearings lubes or checking the front right rods and suspension? Some time next week I will have my mechanich do some basic stuff. He has little pamphlets that says what to check after certain mileage. One is a package deal of I think 25o dollars and they replace all fluids cables filters plugs and do some other stuff. I will probably have him do that and mention the bearing issue and show him the receipts I have already.
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splatt
post Dec 22 2007, 02:44 AM
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QUOTE(Bodeen @ Dec 21 2007, 11:24 AM)
I don't know much.  But I DO know that if you disconnect the battery, it'll stall for about the next 40 stops until the computer adjusts the idle step motor.  Then it'll be fine.  Strange design, I know. :)
  This is on a sohc.
[right][snapback]129546[/snapback][/right]


Looking thru the manual and mechanic receipts I found out its a 3.0 SOHC.
What you mentioned above is definately strange.
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splatt
post Dec 22 2007, 12:26 PM
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Well the car just stalled on me. I stopped at the bank then hit the gas station. After I filled up it started fine but then just died. Did that 5 or 6 times. I even tried to lightly feather the gas with the brakes on as I put it into drive but nothing. Popped the hood but could see nothing wrong. Tried to start it a few more times and it kept starting no problem but would either stall right away or just as I tried to put it into drive. On the 15th or so start I kept a real light rev and popped it into drive. Ran fine and no stalls the short distance to my mechanic. I told him about the problem , the past history of this problem with the car and he will look at it for me today. I`m hoping the parts needed to fix it arent too specialized since he can get most parts all day today but because of the holidays anything that needs to be ordered won`t be in till Wednesday. I was planning on taking it in next week or the week after for a inspection anyway. They offer a service for 250 dollars that replaces all fluid & filters, balances and rotates tires,checks battery, replaces plugs and wires and alot of other stuff. I hope that this annoying problem with the stalls will be smthing simple to fix.
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Bodeen
post Dec 22 2007, 12:30 PM
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I have to urge you to keep driving it for a while and see if it 'fixes itself'. Mine always does, it takes at least 40 starts and stops b4 it readjusts. This has happened like clockwork everytime i disconnect the battery for any length of time.
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splatt
post Dec 23 2007, 01:32 AM
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QUOTE(Bodeen @ Dec 22 2007, 12:30 PM)
I have to urge you to keep driving it for a while and see if it 'fixes itself'.  Mine always does, it takes at least 40 starts and stops b4 it readjusts.  This has happened like clockwork everytime i disconnect the battery for any length of time.
[right][snapback]129769[/snapback][/right]


Good to know but I have never disconntected the battery.
It is also a old issue with the car. In the records that I have the problem has been addressed on 3 different occasions....this latest one while in my possession makes it 4.

1. 08/23/04 Mileage 153149 Towed to shop for stalling
Replaced mass air flow sensor with used part

2. 08/30/05 Mileage 166136 Stalling problem.
Burlington Mitsubishi serviced the throttle body and reset the minimum airflow

3. 12/08/07 Mileage not noted but it was only a few weeks ago so approximately 187700 Replaced mass air flow

Now here it is 15 days after the last time it was taken in for service regarding the issue with stalling and only my 3rd day since I bought the car.
And it`s in the shop already. I was more concerned with the right front rotor and wheel bearing being replaced on 3 different occasions . I thought this stalling problem had been addressed. Looking at the mileage of when it was in the shop to fix the stalling I figured that since it had just been done a few weeks ago I had some mileage to go before it happened again( assuming it was a recurring thing, which unfortuntely it appears to be). From the 1st service to the second for the stalling 12k miles. From the second to the 3rd service it lasted 21k miles. I figured that I`d have a few months at least before anything might happen. I was planning on taking it into the shop next week or the week after due to the holidays anyway for some routine service like I mentioned in my above posts. While there I was going to bring up the stall issue as well as the seeming problem with the right front bearing.

Bearing issue:

1. 12/12/02 Mileage 136218 Right front wheel bearing and rotor.

2. 11/30/04 Mileage 157064 Remove and replace right front rotor and bearing.

3. 03/26/07 Mileage 181000 Right front wheel bearing replaced.

If I can iron out these 2 issues the car itself otherwise is in great shape.
God I hope it won`t cost me too much. The other car I was contemplating had only 70k miles on it and was 2900.This one had 187800 or so miles and was only 1000. I was looking to get a car cheap and just be on top of all the maintenance (filters.oil,plugs etc) and have it last me at leas 1 or 2 years. By then I will be able to afford a certified pre owned Toyota Tacoma. On this one so far I`ve already replaced a windshield for 175, the tune - up mini inspection will run me 250 plus whatever the cost of the stall fix. I hope I don`t come to regret this.
I am replacing my 78 ford F-250 with this car so I can save money on gas. At this rate 1500 would fix all the problems with the truck and it has never ever just not run for me like this. At its no spring chicken itself with 179k miles on it. Reliable but as with any old vehicle problems pop up on occasion , not to mention getting only 10 mpg (ish.. it has a 390 in it and is a real pig ). 50 miles a day...I could get to work and home 4 times and I`d be on fumes. Was looking at 350 plus a month in gas.
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muggli
post Dec 23 2007, 02:27 AM
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I had this same stalling problem with my 1993 Mitsubishi Diamante. I had to replace the idle air control motor. There is a good test procedure described in the service manual. From memory this is what you need to do:

1. Locate the idle air control motor on the throttle body.
2. Disconnect the wiring harness.
3. The pins are numbered in reference to the tab on the motor. When the tab is on the top, the top row from left to right is numbered 1,2,3 and the second row is numbered 4,5,6.
4. Measure the resistance between 1-->2, 2-->3, 4-->5, 5-->6. Each of these should be around 30ohms. If not the motor may need to be replaced.

The service manual also had information on how to use a 6volt power source to test the motor.

I tried pulling this part from a junkyard but all 4 motors I tested did not test properly. Must be a common failure. You can get the part from NAPA (I believe part number CRB216643) for about $184. Otherwise if you are good with a soldering iron you can take two motors apart each with different coils bad and re-solder a good motor back together. If the resistance between 1-->2 and 2-->3 is good then you have one good coil. You will want to find another motor with good resistance between 4-->5 and 5-->6.

Good luck,
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chain rattle
post Dec 23 2007, 03:37 AM
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Drives: 1989 TN .SE magna wagon /1990 TP magna sedan




TR/TS australia is also the diamante verada and sigma

The workshop manual can be downloaded from:

http://www.lisho.net/?page_id=3

in the electrical sections near the end it has diagrams where to find the parts talked about
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splatt
post Dec 24 2007, 07:17 AM
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Thx muggli and chain rattle.
It`s 7am and I can`t sleep. I`ll get showered and dressed and walk down to the mechanics when they open. I have work today but it`s only a 1/2 day so I`ll explain the situation with the car and it should be ok to either miss the day or take a cab to the train station and catch a train. Once I get to the train station in the town I work in I can have my boss come get my ****.
When I hit the mechanics i`ll make sure to mention the Idle air control motor.
Also, one other thing. Found this in a different post here:
Hi recently i have encounted a problem where the regulator/whatever is behind the glove box starts clicking and the car stalls. It can happen at idle or whilst driving down the road. Upon trying to restart it just makes a clicking sound behind the g/box. The enging is turning over but wont fire all the while clicking madly behind the g/box. I had it at an auto elec for over a week and he couldn't diagnose the problem but sandblasted something in the dizzy. The car wont start for between 1 - 20 minutes when this happens and this mostly happens when it's cold but not always. I replaced the regulator and now the coil and hopefully it should be fine although i have been told if it's keeps happening i will need to replace the computer. Does anyone know what may be causing this? Its a build date 11/92 magna 2.6l 4cyl auto.

Cheers - Matt

And your reply Chain...

that position you describe is

either the ECU engine computer for EFI
or the fuel pump regulator
you can get the parts from a wrecker

either /or is not working you need to replace or diagnose the fault

the computer is behind the kick panel you undo on the passenger side
It is a metal box held in by two screws and has an earth wire
just replace that computer controller



for the fuel - undo the fuel line at the fuel rail see if the petrol is pumping
when you turn over

you can try to reset the computer by undoing the battery terminals and re connecting them again


While my car was starting up no problem and then stalling, I was hearing a maddening click coming from the glove compartment area just like Matt.
Eventually after I managed to get it into drive it didnt stall anymore all the way to the mechanics. Given , the mechanics was only a little over a mile away and at every stop sign and light I had my foot on the brake and kept a light rev on the gas. I wonder if my fuel pump regulator or ECU engine computer for EFI might be part of the probem as well. If I had money laying around, for the sake of my peace of mind just say fook it and have the big three replaced all together...
Idle air control motor,Fuel pump regulator and ECU engine computer for EFI.
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splatt
post Dec 24 2007, 09:33 AM
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QUOTE(muggli @ Dec 23 2007, 02:27 AM)
I had this same stalling problem with my 1993 Mitsubishi Diamante. I had to replace the idle air control motor. There is a good test procedure described in the service manual. From memory this is what you need to do:

1. Locate the idle air control motor on the throttle body.
2. Disconnect the wiring harness.
3. The pins are numbered in reference to the tab on the motor. When the tab is on the top, the top row from left to right is numbered 1,2,3 and the second row is numbered 4,5,6.
4. Measure the resistance between 1-->2, 2-->3, 4-->5, 5-->6. Each of these should be around 30ohms. If not the motor may need to be replaced.

The service manual also had information on how to use a 6volt power source to test the motor.

I tried pulling this part from a junkyard but all 4 motors I tested did not test properly. Must be a common failure. You can get the part from NAPA (I believe part number CRB216643) for about $184. Otherwise if you are good with a soldering iron you can take two motors apart each with different coils bad and re-solder a good motor back together. If the resistance between 1-->2 and 2-->3 is good then you have one good coil. You will want to find another motor with good resistance between 4-->5 and 5-->6.

Good luck,
[right][snapback]129903[/snapback][/right]


I just searched NAPA and all they list is a idle control valve, nothing about a motor. Anyway i`m about to walk down to the service station and see whats up.
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chain rattle