to be honest with you the car is the way i got it. so everything that was there is still there. i have anther question. the intercooler piping has a gm maf sensor on it. it looks like they were using it as a spacer or something. could that be causing the boost leak. i went through the whole set up and took it all apart. i put new clamps on everything and i am still having the same problem. could the maf sensor be causing that problem since it is plastic and everything is metal and rubber.

the GM MAF was put there to read an increase in airflow because of the bigger turbo. Is it plugged in to something or just sitting there? It should be plugged into a black box that has a MAF Translator sticker on it and then that should be plugged into the factory MAF sensor plug.

sometimes when those GM MAF's get old they leak up around the plug area. get some really really soapy water and spray it around the GM MAF, have someone rev your engine and check for bubbles. It's not the most scientific way but it works

:offtopic: How big is that freaking turbo?

its a evo 3 16g

the gm maf sensor isnt plugged into anything. it just sits there. also could a bad waste gate and/or bov cause the sputtering when it boosts. also i am just going to put the waste gate thats on the turbo back on and see if the factory wastegate does any better.

First off the GM MAF needs to be hooked up to something.

it still has to be hooked up even though it is not hooked up to the air intake. it is on the intercooler near the intake.

??????

does the second maf sensor have to be hooked up even though it loks like it is being used just for s spacer

it sounds like someone messed up. can you take a pic for us?

here are some pics i took if you cant see them to clearly i will take more in the morning. tell what you think. since you all have dsms is this what the setup is supposed to look like.

Attached thumbnail(s)

well....it looks like you have a variety of problems

for the MAF translator to even work that GM MAF needs to be plugged in. Right now the factory maf is the one sending the signal.

where is your air filter? did you take it off?

is that boost controller even hooked up or just hanging out?

do you have a blow off/recirc valve? couldn't see one but it might just be underneath the intake pipe

you definately have a 1g head swap in there, or a complete 6-bolt swap so it could be that the person before you didn't wire the 1g CAS correctly, OR that they didn't set the base timing correctly. You really should find out what is actually there engine wise, entire 6-bolt or just 6-bolt head.

The GM maf set up looks ok but without the sensor being plugged in it does nothing but get in the way. I would recommend taking it off or get a better translator like this one. it will plug into the GM MAF, and the plug for the stock maf. you have to tap 1 or 2 wires, not a big deal though. If you take it off though you can sell the sensor and then sell me the silicone couplers :P

anyway, something needs to be done with that boost controller to. does it have an aftermarket boost guage? do you know how much boost you are running?

we can start there....

or maybe, get a new ecu.
same thing happened to me. got no help here.
take this advice, it is the ecu.

alsoi it is a complete 6 bolt swap

hey guys just to give a update....... the car now boosts in all gears. but still is sputtering and breaking up here and there. the spark plugs are gapped at 28 and i was thinking of regapping at 30. i hooked up the boost controler and it takes off. there were 3 boost leaks and now only has a small one one the down pipe on the intercooler exiting the intake manifold. have to reweld the last boost leak because it is on the existing weld. the problem really was the greddy bov. the screw that was on the bov was tightened and i guess the spring wasnt working properly. just readjusted and now boosts but like i said it still has breaking and jerking while boosting. any ideas

fix the last boost leak before you do anything else. you cant find any other problems until this is taken care of

the hole is less then the size of a pin hole. and you dont even hear the air comin out even at 30 psi. i put some soapy water on it thats how i found it. i put some eproxy on the weld which seals those types of things so i am good now. as i stated in the last reply. would gapping the spark plugs to 30 fix the break up in high boost. it sounds like it isnt sparking properly.

bigger gap is bad with turbo engines especially if you increase boost because it increases the compression of the engine under boost periods. When the compression increases it gets harder for the spark to jump the gap so if you go bigger you are going to have worse problems.

so should i gapp them at 26 other than 28. i adjusted the screw on the greddy bov and the car now boosts but at high boost it still breaks up a little bit. any ideas. also i am tring to find parts for the 1g engine but how do i tell what year the engine is. im using my manual for the 1995 gsx but the engine is not the same.

because the gap for the 2g awd engine is max at 30 so thats why i think it would be ok. or would it be recomended that the gap go to 26 instead