|
Mitsubishi-Forums.com is not affiliated with or endorsed by Mitsubishi Motors.
|
|
Do you like Mitsubishi-Forums.com? Link to us and help spread the word about our forum. Thanks!
Xenon Conversion: Low Beam & High Beam
| Grovsnus |
Feb 4 2008, 04:44 AM
|
Newbie
Group: Members
Posts: 8
Joined: 1-October 07
Member No.: 45,928
Location: Luleċ, Sweden
Drives: Mitsubishi Outlander Turbo 07 Status: OFFLINE

|
Sending a description on how I did to convert the stock halogen into Xenon on my Mitsu Outlander Turbo 2007
I bought two kits, one 50W xenon high power HB3, one standard 35W H1. Both kits from www.xenonkungen.se through laitis in Luleċ. The HP3 (9005) is on High beam, the H1 is on low beam. 4300K on both kits.
Note that the philips lamp guide is wrong regarding bulb types, they have mixed up the h1 and the hb3.
The High beams was easy. Just remove the original HB3 lamps, plug in the new ones, find good places for the ballast boxes, replace fuses and ta-daa! I did have some trouble adjusting the beams afterwards.
The low beams was a real ****!
|
 |
|
| Grovsnus |
Feb 4 2008, 04:55 AM
|
Newbie
Group: Members
Posts: 8
Joined: 1-October 07
Member No.: 45,928
Location: Luleċ, Sweden
Drives: Mitsubishi Outlander Turbo 07 Status: OFFLINE

|
Uploading some images... First the stock bulb and adaptor. My first mounting attempt was to drill a hole in the stock adaptor and use it for my xenon bulb. That didn´t work at all, and I had to buy a new adaptor for 40$ (the reason for buying a new one is that I want to be able to convert the car back to stock) The picture shows tha plastic H1 adaptor, the spring holding the adaptor and an annoying cable harness. The cable harness can easily be removed while you assemble the xenon kit.
|
 |
|
| Grovsnus |
Feb 4 2008, 05:07 AM
|
Newbie
Group: Members
Posts: 8
Joined: 1-October 07
Member No.: 45,928
Location: Luleċ, Sweden
Drives: Mitsubishi Outlander Turbo 07 Status: OFFLINE

|
The problem with converting to xenon was to get the sealing to work. The stock adaptor serves as both a placeholder for the adaptor as well as a contact surface for the rubber sealing. The xenon kits are not intended for such a special assembly as this one. Just looking at the kit, you wouldn´t be able to mount the bulb or get the sealing to work just like that. The trick I used was to manufacture washers and a pipe to replace the adaptor. I have produced a few drawing to show what I did. The result is a solution where the xenon bulb is mounted in the stock mounting spring. The sealing is perfect against the stock rubber cover. Finally, the whole sha-baam can be retrofitted to the original shape in five minutes whenever it is time for big brother to review the condition of your car. A picture showing the washers I made on the xenon bulb
sk_rmdump138.bmp ( 561.05k )
Number of downloads: 47
|
 |
|
| Kemo |
Mar 31 2008, 03:52 AM
|

Full Member
 
Group: Members
Posts: 96
Joined: 6-April 06
Member No.: 22,947
Location: Slovakia
Drives: Mitsubishi Outlander Turbo 2005 Status: OFFLINE

|
QUOTE(yohan @ Mar 27 2008, 07:28 AM) how much of a difference do you have in illumination? I have only had my outlander a week and already have put on over 2500 miles.. lots of highway going to Calgary Alberta Canada from Texas... I find the headlights awesome ... Wondering how much difference there is going to HID vs. Piaa .. I did conversion to HIDs (H1 projector low beams) and of course I did not measure the change in luminuous power. But I would say the diff is at least +100% for sure. +150% is my subjective upper limitation of difference I feel. I used 6000K HID colour. Today manufacturers are using 5400-6000K as a OEM solution, especially in high-class vehicles. Before, e.g. Mercedes, BMW and Audi, used 4300-4500K HID bulbs. In general, HID lamps do approx. 3times more luminance than regular halogen. Of course, the highest luminuous power gain you get when changing for yellow/white colour of about 4300K, the colour about 5400K are the best to human eye in category of contrast and objects resolution. The higher Kelvin you choose (more blue or even more purple at 12000K), the less luminace you get. And with higher K light temperature the visibility in fog and heavy rain decerase. I choosed 6000K, my priority is to see clear and far instead of heaving crazy purple/violet light with lower limance than regular Halogen, which are 2300K I think.
|
 |
|
| owexonline |
May 23 2008, 01:31 PM
|
Newbie
Group: Members
Posts: 7
Joined: 1-January 08
Member No.: 50,195
Location: CJ , Romania , EU
Drives: 2006 Mitsubishi Outlander , 2002 BMW 520 , 1980 Fiat X1/9 Status: OFFLINE

|
I mount my H1 low beam HID KIT, and something wierd is happening. Sometimes only 1 light is on. so everytime i start the lights i have to go in front of the car and check if both lights (right and left) are on, if they are not, i have to turn off the lights and after a few seconds turn on again , and if I am lucky both will work. Any1 have any ideea why is this happening ?
|
 |
|
| owexonline |
May 29 2008, 05:30 AM
|
Newbie
Group: Members
Posts: 7
Joined: 1-January 08
Member No.: 50,195
Location: CJ , Romania , EU
Drives: 2006 Mitsubishi Outlander , 2002 BMW 520 , 1980 Fiat X1/9 Status: OFFLINE

|
QUOTE(Kemo @ May 27 2008, 05:16 PM) My xenons do the same. But it is less then 5% of light-turning-ons. It is allways the right side. I assume it has something to do with the reliability and quality of the inverter and the HID bulb. Obviously the bulb does not lit when there is not enough charge to ignite the gas in the bulb. And that can be caused by the inverter (charge lower then required) or by the bulb (electrodes damaged or xenon gas mix not rich enough to lead the current). It is obvious that you can do something with the inverter - contacts checking. Bulb can be only exchanged for other one. And most of HID conversion kits contain cheap HID bulbs from China. These lower quality (lower compared to Osram, Philips etc.) bulbs you can identify by the period necessary to ge full luminuous power. It is up to 10 seconds. Quality bulbs do not change the light colour nor intensity after first 2 seconds. I recorded signifficant improvement after doublechecking all the wires to and from the inverter. Plug-out and plug-in all connectors several times to remove possible oxydation and corrosion from contacts. Higher conductivity results in higher charge values... one more wierd problem...... my washer have been melted :huh: my guess is .... i must make the hole bigger, right now maybe the bulb is next/near the metal hole ...so the metal become very hot and melting my washers ... I'll make bigger holes and let you know ...... here are pics with melted washers: Attached thumbnail(s)
|
 |
|
Advanced Search
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:
Get your Mitsubishi listed in the Garage Today, for FREE, to share with the world what you drive and what toys and modifications you have.
Track this topic
Receive email notification when a reply has been made to this topic and you are not active on the board.
Subscribe to this forum
Receive email notification when a new topic is posted in this forum and you are not active on the board.
Download / Print this Topic
Download this topic in different formats or view a printer friendly version.
|
|