**UPDATED: Please note that Option 2 is obsolete and superseded by Option 3**

This How-To is for those who would like to install an HID kit in a 2008 Lancer that comes equipped with factory Daytime Running Lights (DRL's).

The advantages of these solutions are:

1) They do NOT require splicing into the factory wiring at all, thus saving any warranty headaches
2) They eliminate the HID Flicker associated with the DRL's

Some background info:

The factory DRL's come on whenever the car is on, the parking brake is down and the headlight switch is in the off position (Position 1) or the middle position (Position 2).

The DRL signal is NOT a constant DC (6V, 9V, etc.) but rather a square waveform peaking at 12VDC and a frequency of about 60Hz (this is better for the bulb longevity than running them at 6V).

It will be assumed that your HID kit has a remote turn-on lead and a relay (30 or 40A).

____________________________________________________________________

Option 1: HID's are ON with switch in Position 1, 2 or 3 (no flicker)

1) Buy an HID kit that has a wiring harness AND relay (most of them nowadays do)
2) Install everything as normal in the HID kit including wiring the remote turn on lead to the factory 9006 bulb harness
3) Remove relay from socket and use a voltmeter to measure the polarity in the relay socket on pins 85 and 86 to see which is positive and which is negative (when the headlight switch is in the ON position) - for mine, terminal 86 was positive and terminal 85 was negative
4) Buy an Electrolytic, Polarized Capacitor at Radio Shack or local electronics/stereo store 25V (or higher) and 2000uF (or higher)

(IMG:http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/3091/img8102mediumek4.jpg)

5) The capacitor has a marking down the side indicating which terminal is negative
6) Solder the negative lead to the relay lead you noted (in step 3) as negative and the positive lead to the relay lead you noted as positive
7) Insulate the exposed leads with electrical tape or shrink tubing so they don't short out

(IMG:http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/8906/img8108mediumcw3.jpg)

8) Put the relay back in the socket
9) Test it all out!

**If your HID kit came with an extra 9006 Socket cable extension (as mine did), you can solder the capacitor in parallel with this cable INSTEAD of directly to the relay, then install this cable from the factory 9006 harness to the HID remote turn-on lead:

(IMG:http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/9560/1mediumkh9.jpg)
(IMG:http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/3066/3mediumpn7.jpg)

____________________________________________________________________

Option 2 (**SUPERSEDED BY OPTION 3 BELOW): HID's are OFF with switch in Position 1 or 2 and ON in Position 3

Before starting this option, note that it varies depending on your relay and you may need to use series resistors, etc. to compensate...Option #1 above is recommended.

1) Buy an HID kit that has a wiring harness, relay, and extra 9006 cable
2) Install everything as normal in the HID kit including wiring the remote turn on lead to the factory 9006 bulb harness
3) Remove relay from socket and use a voltmeter to measure the polarity in the relay socket on pins 85 and 86 to see which is positive and which is negative (when the headlight switch is in the ON position) - for mine, terminal 86 was positive and terminal 85 was negative
4) Buy an Electrolytic, Polarized Capacitor at Radio Shack or local electronics/stereo store 25V (or higher) and **100 or 200uF ONLY**
5) The capacitor has a marking down the side indicating which terminal is negative
6) Also buy an inductor/choke with a value of 2 Henries or higher - here are some sample inductors:

(IMG:http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a1/Electronic_component_inductors.jpg/676px-Electronic_component_inductors.jpg)

7) Strip back some insulation from the extra 9006 cable and solder the capacitor in parallel with the two wires

(IMG:http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/9560/1mediumkh9.jpg)
(IMG:http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/3066/3mediumpn7.jpg)

8) Cut one of the cable leads and solder the inductor in Series with it

(IMG:http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/7696/4mediumiy0.jpg)
(IMG:http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/6505/5mediumzk8.jpg)

9) Wrap all the connections with electrical tape
10) Test it out!
____________________________________________________________________

Option 3: HID's are OFF with switch in Position 1 or 2 and ON in Position 3

This variation has the same overall effect as Option 2 above, but is much more stable, works with all relay types and there is no guesswork about resistor/inductor values...

1) Buy an HID kit that has a wiring harness, relay AND extra 9006 cable
2) Install everything as normal in the HID kit
3) With the HID's on, use a voltmeter to determine which wire on the remote turn on lead is ground and which is power (in my case Blue was Power and Black was Ground)
4) Buy the following components from an electronics parts store: IRF510 MOSFET, 50kohm resistor, 28kohm resistor, 2.2uF (anywhere from 2uF to 10uF should work) 25V (or higher) Electrolytic Capacitor
5) The MOSFET has 3 Terminals (in order) - Gate, Drain and Source:

(IMG:http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/8043/irf510ly5.jpg)

6) The capacitor has two terminals and a marking down the side indicating which terminal is negative

(IMG:http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/4934/aluminumelectrolyticcapai1.jpg)

7) Resistors have 2 terminals (they are interchangeable)

(IMG:http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/5219/resistorpw4.jpg)

8) Your 9006 cable has two ends, the female side plugs into the car 9006 harness and the male side plugs into the HID remote turn on lead - you can cut this cable in half so you have a female end with two wires and a male end with two wires - CONFIRM your polarity in Step 3 before continuing

(IMG:http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/9560/1mediumkh9.jpg)

9) Solder time! Be very careful to include ALL of the connections below:

- POSITIVE Terminal of Capacitor TO Gate of MOSFET
- NEGATIVE Terminal of Capacitor TO Source of MOSFET
- Drain of MOSFET TO Male 9006 Ground Wire
- Female 9006 POWER wire TO one end of 50kohm resistor AND TO Male 9006 Power wire
- Female 9006 Ground wire TO one end of 28kohm resistor AND TO Source of MOSFET (which also has the capacitor on it)
- JOIN the remaining two free ends of the resistors together and solder TO Gate of MOSFET (which also has the capacitor on it)

9) Isolate, insulate and wrap all the connections with electrical tape or shrink tubing
10) Test it out!

There you are. I will delete the other thread that I opened with your write up.
Thanks a lot for posting it on this forum too. :clap:

THE KITS I AM LOOKING AT DO NOT HAVE RELAYS--THEY USE THE BULB CONNECTOR TO POWER UP THE BALLAST THEN A LIKE CONNECTOR COMES OUT OF THE OTHER END OF THE BALLAST AND BECOMES THE NEW H/LIGHT CONNECTOR.--I HAVE AN 08 LANCER GTS AND I WANT HIDS BADLY.

Please DO NOT use Caps in the future.

If your kit didn't come with Relay - return the kit. Or buy wiring harness with relay from MobileHid, its like $20. You do not want to use HIDs without wiring harness and relay, trust me.

Hehe, oops. I guess that's what happens when you have more the one mod looking over the forum.
I already harassed him about that on PM.

Updated - Option 3 Added - Tested and working

Here is a response I received today from v-leds.com regarding their
supposed non-flicker, DRL friendly, HID KIT:

We are in the process of changing that part of the description. We have found that some vehicles do have bulb out warning problems and also do not put out enough voltage when the DRL is on. This is mostly the case on our single output kits. The dual kits have a wiring harness and relay so the power is coming directly from the battery, the relay is easily switched at even 6v of power. We do have harnesses and load resistors for vehicles that need the current draw of a 55w bulb. These
additional harnesses also will switch the HID's on even when the DRL circuit
is engaged. Obviously the lights will be at full power even when the DRL is
on. What kind of vehicles do you have? Have you installed HID's before? Let
me know.

Thank you,

Jake York
Velocity Distributing Inc.

www.v-leds.com
http://stores.ebay.com/V-LEDS?refid=store

I contacted Mitsubishi Corporate yesterday to make an "official" request to add an option of DRL's being on or off. They said they had not had that many requests for such an option, but would take it to engineering. Based on demand and level of dificulty, the end result will be coming out to dealers. Therefore, the more people that request the option for selecting DRL's be on or off by the consumer (such as a choice in the ECU) the faster the solution will get out to us. End result is you will be able to do HID mods without capacitor and resistor time constant mods, or simply be able to drive without people flashing you, because they think you have your lights on when you don't need them.

Here is the number to Mitsubishi that I called, 1-888-648-7820.

You will need the last 8 digits of your VIN.

They are going to ask if you have asked your dealer about having this turned off, hopefully, you can say 'yes'. Then they will want to know the dealer's name.

Again, the more lancer owners that ask for this option, the faster it will be delivered.

would it just be easier to put hid's in the foglights and some xenon gas bulbs for lowbeam? oh and is their anyway to bypass the foglights to turn them on with just the park lights on?

Jake York from V-leds.com customer service sent me an e-mail stating that he'll throw in a modified DRL harness with my order. This harness will hook up straight to the battery via a 40A relay, fuse and a load resistor/capacitor to induce full power with the DRL's on, so they don't flicker. I will be testing this harness. So pending results, this harness may be available for purchase shortly. I will post results on this thread.

**THE REGULAR (non-modified) WIRING HARNESS DOES NOT COME STANDARD with their 9006 kits, so be sure to request one when ordering. It is always recommended to get a harness since direct to OEM plug applications can burn out your HID's prematurely.

Go to www.Mobilehid.com to find a more detailed explanation of why it's so important to get a harness with your HID KIT.

:beer:

I have a new question, I had an HID kit installed by the dealer this past weekend in which the lights come on similar to who the stock DRL's would. But my problem is that today the lights are staying on after I shut the car off. Not just for a few seconds, but not turning off.

Can anyone explain how this could "start" happening. I mean I don't understand how they can be good for 2 days and then start doing this.

thanks

I don't understand, how anyone could still have a DRL signal input to the HID bulbs when the harness is hooked up straight to your battery?

can anyone explain this?

The signal is trasmitted through the OEM harness from your car to the HID harness... but you probably already knew this.

My question is... where can I get a MOSFET?

Yeah but using the harness add on (not standard plug and play hook-up) the only part of the car wiring you use is one OEM factory socket, which is used for a remote lead to simply trigger the harness relay in allowing power straight from your battery.

MOSFET, Radio Shack, lol. or call a local electronics firm and ask them for a local supplier. So you figured out the ECU for the DRL huh, lol The MOSFET is probably switching that DRL square wave. If that's the case, I would be looking more for a jumper around that ;) I have the factory manual if you need more references. Just PM ME.

I can't seem to find the 28kohm and 50kohm. The closest I could find is 33kohm and 100kohm. Some guy there said I could solder them in sequence (IE: a 22kohm and a 6kohm) and that would work. Can I use the 33 and 100 or can I fabricate it like the guy said?

So have you received your HID's yet and installed them?

Just curious, would love to see the results and your feedback on them.

Confirmed option #3, tested and working.

Adrian, you rock BIG TIME!

EDIT: Figured I would share some of the awesome info that Adrian (afeudale) was so generous to share with me, along with some of my own.

The first problem I had was locating the correct parts. A 9006 cable was almost impossible to find for under $20 because most places sell you a pair of 9006 cables and you only need one. Fortunately, AutoLumination sells just the connectors under the headlight section. You can get both connectors shipped for about $10 total. The IRF510 MOSFET (transistor), resistors, and capacitor can be easily found at your local RadioShack. Ask the clerk and they will happily show you where you can find them.

Unfortunately, they do not sell a 28kohm or a 50kohm resistor, but it doesn't really matter to begin with. The thing with the resistors for this project is that they create a ratio (28/50 = 0.56). As long as the two resistors you are using creates 0.56 when you divide the lesser by the greater, you are ok. Also, you don't need to be EXACTLY at 0.56, you just need to get close (so 0.52 is alright). Another awesome thing about resistors is that you can combine them to make the resistance you need. If you solder a 15kohm in sequence with a 10kohm resistor, you end up with a 25kohm resistor (15 + 10 = 25). The soldering diagram should look like this:
---[]--- ---[]---
*Remember, they go in a straight line*

For this, I purchased resistors in the following resistances: 1.5kohm, 22kohm, and 47kohm. Using 2 1.5kohm resistors and 1 22kohm resistor, I fabricated a 25kohm resistor (25/47 = 0.53).

Make sure your capacitor is polarized! I made the mistake of purchasing a non-polarized capacitor and now I have no use for it. Capacitors come in Axial and Radial. The one shown in afeudale's post is Axial whereas Radial capacitors look like this:
---[]---
*One of the sides on the capacitor will have arrows pointing downward, indicating the negative lead*

The IRF510 MOSFET is basically one of a kind and requires no special instructions.

Total cost for resistors, 1 capacitor, and 1 transistor = $6

Lastly when soldering everything together, you can pretty much just twist everything together first, get it all nice and neat, then solder it in place. You can solder everything at once and order doesn't matter since you are working with electronics.

*Remember, the socket with the 2 pins in it is the FEMALE connector! The plug with the 2 holes in it is the MALE connector! I made the mistake thinking the socket with 2 pins was male... Now that's what I call gender confusion!*

Soldering
Gate = Solder the positive lead of the capacitor, 1 end of the 28kohm resistor, and 1 end of the 50kohm resistor.

Drain = Solder ONLY the Male 9006 Ground

Source = Solder the negative lead of the capacitor, the other end of the 28kohm resistor, and the Female 9006 Ground.

Finally, join the Male and Female Power and solder the other end of the 50kohm resistor.

Everything else is easily explained in afeudale's post.

:clap:

Good Points noted by freakingwilly and glad to hear you got it working!

The "gender confusion" is really easy to make, because both connectors are actually male AND female. The connector itself plugs into another (making it male), but inside it are sockets for pins (making those female). Vice versa for the other connector which accepts the plug (female), but has pins inside it (making those male). In general, male and female connectors are distinguished by their highest level function - i.e. not what the pins look like, but what the actual connectors do (i.e. plug in (male) OR accept (female)).

And Iwas just thinking of converting to HIDs after I hit the biggest pothole in the world the other day.
This all seems confusing as hell...
I'll take another look at this and see if i can make sense of it (when i haven't had a few drinks already, lol)