the hum your hearing is most likely the HID's being powered. its normal

No I did option three and the HID's work fine if I turn them to position three but if they are in position one when the DRL's are on they flicker and the DRL's aren't disabled.

Sorry to bump this but I would like to find a solution. I can post a picture of my circuit if that helps?

So I assume the best and easyest way is to go with the first method, does it work good enough? i bought hids today, and will be searching for capacitor tomorrow.

Well, I bit and ordered a 5000k kit. sigh. My wallet is already regretting it, but it's off my mind when I see the yellow ugly that is the stock halogens. Now the yellow has been rightly moved to the fog lamps via some Hoen Endurance bulbs.

Picture 1
Picture 2


Ok so there are my two pictures.... note the black wire broke off the mosfet and I will replace the mosfet if I cant solder it back on. That was only because it bent too much while i was getting the electrical tape off to take the picture.

Anyways anybody see something wrong?

That capacitor option doesnt work, no matter how you wire it in, parallel or sequence. Damn hid install would take less than half hour if not that retarded drl thing, relay clicks but no light from the bulbs. :S

As much as i wanted to get it to work myself the best bet is to pay someone to do the work, if they mess it up, fixing is on them. :)

question : on option 3. With the modified 9006 harness , do i plug it in the relay harness then to the factory harness or just plug the modified harness into one of the ballasts?

From the instructions, I understand it gets plugged directl from the factory 9006 harness into the HID remote turn-on lead.


On a side note, I cannot locate a IRF510 or equivalent in this freakin' city. The only thing I've been able to dig up is a IRF520 MOSFET. The specs are different (the 520 being a "beefier" fet), so I'm wondering if this will fit the bill.

im sorry im still confused. Let me try to clarify. For the relay. Theres a positive and negative that hooks up to the battery terminals. Then theres 2 male 9006 and 1 female 9006 harness. the 2 males connecting the the HID ballasts and the 1 female connecting into the lancer's factory harness.

Now back to my question, do i plug the modified harness into the 1 female harness from the relay and then plug into the lancer's factory harness OR do i plug it to 1 of the 2 male harness which will plug into the HID ballasts?

It appears that the modified 9006 harness is meant to go between the OEM harness and the relay via the "Remote Turn-on Plug" (the only female 9006 end)-- so that it may properly trigger the relay when to send the power from the battery to the ballasts.
Putting it after the relay doesn't really make any sense to me.

I haven't received my kit since it was shipped yesterday, and I've yet to find an 9006 extension so I cannot say for 100% sure. It'll take god knows how many weeks to get the female end of the 9006 socket from autolumination since it's in the states and I can't even find that part alone here. Either that, or I'll just have to modify the harness that comes with the kit, which would occur most likely before the relay.

freakingwilly would be the best person to respond to this, but it makes sense to me.

[edit]
ugh. I again broke down and just ordered the IRF510 form digikey along with some other item. Either I sit around with everything for atleast 2 weeks kicking around, or I just pay the extra 8 bucks and be done with it.

I located a couple female 9006 plugs from a 92 prelude in a junkyard for a buck, and the male ends from a couple el-cheapo halogen bulbs. I'll let y'all know how it works out with dismantling the bulbs and using the socket in case they're stuck in the same rut as I am with getting that component without ordering from another freakin country. If things don't work out, I'll have a hefty shard of glass in my finger and I'll just modify the HID harness directly

When it says to plug the relay back into the socket, which socket is it talkin about?

Nvm. disregard my earlier reply. I was going to try option 1 but i didnt see the one person say his didnt work so im not all too excited about trying it out. this whole thing gets me a little frustrated.

has anyone taken their car to a shop to have it done with success?

^^^ I took my car to the shop, and they disabled my drls, but now hids are on every time the key is in ACC position, i will be prolly taking it back so they can connect it to the headlight switch, or just install a kill switch, on the dash, there is 3 free slots for it anyway :P

When my kit arrives I'll take pictures of the installation (what wires went where, what connected to what, etc.)

I'm doing option #3, and I'm told that my components arrived today from Digikey so I'll be doing that tonight after work. Again, pictures will be done. I'm doing mine a bit different as the components will be soldered onto a proto board and enclosed in a black project box which will be mounted in the bay. I don't just want stuff hanging out, even if it's covered in heatshrink. Looks more tidy in an enclosure.

plus maybe I can market it! ;)

Well, this is lame. They've been sitting in customs for a good long while now. DOT is probably having a shitfit. Even the digikey order came in a couple of days, and those parts were from Mexico.

[edit]

Removed pictures because I had the connections backwards
:blush:

Wow, I really have been gone for far too long! Ok, time to get back on track!!!

Klaysta, can you provide pictures of the entire wire with the tab sides up? This will give me a better POV and I can see where you might be going wrong.

Here is the image that wasn't working earlier.

Picture

Well, I received the kit. The first thing I noticed is that the ballasts look radically different than any picture I've seen from MobileHID thus far. The model number sticker (DAX35DKE) is the same, but these don't have a separable plug right at the ballast (both cables are attached), it's black, and looks about 3/4 the thickness.

I'm used to seeing this:
(IMG:http://mobilehid.com/images/rubber2.jpg)

but instead was greeted with the picture in the attachment.

[edit]
In fact, it looks like #9 on their test, except this one is black.
(IMG:http://www.mobilehid.com/ballasts.jpg)

I emailed them, but I haven't received any response from this or the last email I sent days ago.
Plus, in their own test, they failed a kit because it has an external ignitor.
The kit they sent me has an external ignitor, and looks to qualify as one of the "generic slim ballasts" they tested and failed.

What the shit is going on?

Klaysta, your male connector is on backwards. I know black is usually the color for ground, but your black is actually POWER and yellow is GROUND. Unsolder the Male 9006 connector, flip it, and resolder. Problem solved!

sordid, it looks like somebody pulled a pop and swap on you. I've purchased 4 kits from MobileHID.com and all 4 kits use the DAX35DKE model ballast. Perhaps they are cutting back to reduce costs? Or maybe there's nothing really wrong with external ignitors? Who knows...

Personally, I say you give them a ring if they aren't responding to e-mails.

480-329-2175 Monday thru Friday 10am to 6pm MST

Thanks for bringing it up though... I was about to buy another 4 (FOUR) kits from MobileHID. 2 of my guys want HID low and fog lights.

Copycats... :gunsmilie: