Yeah, I tried that four times since noon today. First two went straight to voice mail, second two weren't picked up at all. Calling from Canada means I'm just blowing money down the drain trying to find out what the hell is going on.

Not pleased.

If you want, I can call them for you since I'm in the states. I'm trying to find out what the hell happened to my D2 connectors! My OEM projectors are just sitting and wasting away in my garage!

Well, shit, if you're giving them a call and don't mind mentioning my predicament, that would be very much appreciated, thanks. If they need a shipment reference, it was probably the last one shipped to Winnipeg, MB.
I've never bought a product from all accounts seems to be a very reputable company and been shit scared to actually use it how it's intended.. this is bizarre and disappointing. I was looking forward to the process.

the new evo x comes standard with HID's correct? cant you just find out how the DRL is disabled by taking a look at one (assuming they dont have DRL's) if not then im sure they have some sort of fix as to where there isnt a flicker at start up

Got a reply from Clifford. These are legitimate ballasts, and while there was a switch, it was for a specific reason -- they're improving their products. These ballasts are supposed to be more reliable and less power hungry than the previous generation. However, as I feared, the hammer test does not apply here.

http://www.mobilehid.com/slimmer.jpg

I'll let y'all know how the new ballasts act in the next day or so..

I do wish they let us know what they were doing before they did it. I was already considering selling them off to somebody who wasn't familiar.. it might have been a mistake but we shall see.

Ok so I changed the wires and it still doesn't work. Here is my circuit again...



The Green wire goes to the cars Red/White Wire. The Red wire goes to the cars Black/White wire. The Black wire goes to the mobile HID harness Black Wire. The Yellow wire goes to the Mobile HID Blue wire.

Parts used:

4.7uF 35V cap
IRF510 Mosfet
9006 cables
27k
47k + 1.5k

So this still has the same problem where the DRL's are not disabled and just make a really loud hum and flicker. The lights still work if I turn them on though.

Just kidding.... all fixed. I actually had the female ends reversed. So I put the male ends back and switched the female ends. All is right with the world.

Awesome
...

looks like I'm going to have to switch the poles on mine as well :o

As I suspected, I did.

However, I've run into an odd situation. I've used the exact values for resistors and caps here (except 2.2uF 50v instead of 25v) and while the DRLs are bypassed when the ignition is off, as soon as I start the car, the relay is clicking like mad. The lamps are still off until I turn them on manually (which results in a couple of bulb flickers as they're turning on), but when the car is on and the switch is in position 1 or 2, the relay is just going mental. This will kill the relay in short order..

Anybody else take a listen to their harness relay when the car is on and the lamps are not in the fully on position? I've inspected all my solder connections, redid a bunch to make them cleaner, and the only thing I can think of it's either
1) a bummed relay (though it works fine when the car is off)
2) the capacitor is insufficient

I'm taking a run out to pick up one a bit beefier, but I'm stumped otherwise


[edit]
4.7uF, 10uF, cleaned and resoldered the connections..
the relay still chatters endlessly while the lights are in DRL mode with the engine running (but only when it's running).
add to that one of the bulbs is damaged on the outside glass housing, and it's flickering quite a bit upon start and warm-up. this is just a warranty issue waiting to happen.

sigh.

so wait..
you have the female (blue) connector attached to the 50k ohm resistor series and the drain (center pole) of the mosfet?

Can't be a warranty issue if you are doing a DRL bypass. Unplug your bypass and the HIDs should work normally when they are on.

I hear nothing coming out of my relay. My DRL bypass has given me no problems at all. Can you list all the parts and their respective values? I know you are using a 4.7uF 50v capacitor, but are you sure your capacitor is polarized? I made the mistake of buying a non-polarized capacitor on my first run. What kind of resistors too? Are you soldering the resistors in line to get the necessary resistance?

What happened to the pictures of your DRL bypass? I'd like to take a second look at your connections and resistors. If the ratio is insufficient, then the DRL bypass won't work.

Pictures really would make this much easier :grin:

By warranty I didn't mean Mitsubishi :)

The pictures were removed because I buggered up the sides each plug should be on, but now I'm not so sure.

I'm using two 100uF in parallel creating a verified 50uF, and a 27 + 1 in series to create 28. My cap a polarized radial electrolytic 4.4uF/50v.

All my inner connections are verified to be correct.. the only thing I can possibly think is in error is my harness polarity. Tested, the oem harness is putting 12v to the red wire at all times. Am I somehow supposed to use the black wire on the harness as hot?
Looking at the picture posted above, it seems that the female and male ends are completely switched around according to the instructions -- the female end tieing into the train rather than the male end.

in DRL mode, the lamps are not on -- which could be a result of the different ballast I have -- but the relay is going absolutely insane with chatter. that tells me the whole bypass is being, well, bypassed. I redid the whole thing and I saw the lamps pop on a couple times very briefly in DRL mode, but I rechecked my wiring and i forgot to connect a resistor. I haven't tested it again since, but it's the same circuit as last time.. the only variable here must be the plug polarities.

[edit]
I nuked the proto board and did it using the ol' pillbox method. Here's what mine looks like now:
(IMG:http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/8064/img1443ek6.th.jpg)

The black wire on the male end lines up to the red wire on the OEM harness which shows 12v all the time.
The black wire on the female end lines up to the red wire as well.. it was salvaged from a Honda -- what can I say about their colour scheme.

as i have it:

black (+) from both plugs to 50k ohm resistor, to gate
red (-) from male plug to drain
red (-) from female to source

4.7uF 50v cap between source and gate with positive on gate
28k ohm between source and gate

[edit x2]
oh freaking duh.
it took rereading afeudale's post about the gender of the cables for it to finally kick in -- i had it backwards. I was confusing the two cables. DRLs are bypassed with no relay chatter.

the cabling is a bitch with the external ignitor..

100km shake-down: so far so good.

Well I was having a bit of an issue with one of the bulbs. It came slightly bubbled on the outside of the glass with some black charred residue, all bumpy and shit. It still lit up, but not without flickering as it was in the warm-up cycle.

They're still taking care of their customer as they're shipping me a new bulb without me requesting one or having to ship this one back. I just sent them a picture of it and he jumped right on the case. Me happy about their after-sale support.

What if I dont have HIDs but want to cut out my DRLs how would I do that

I would assume one bypass for each lamp.

*Zot*

Give it a -5C temperature, and one ballast (on the driver side) is now turning itself off and making a short buzzing noise when I turn it off manually. The other one seems to still work. Fabulous. I'm back to yellow halogens. God they're ugly and provide nil visibility.

Hey All,

I have a 2007 Outlander with the whole DRL mess when I try to install aftermarket HID's. I was wondering if one of you guys who has sucessfully built the bypass could build another pair and sell me to me. I know how to solder, im totally fine with that, but just dont have the time to mess around with this trying to get it correct. Does anyone know where they sell a kit, or a pre assembled bypass? OR how much do you want for a completed one? Thanks in advance!

This guy sells it for $50

http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=352772

For about a year now I have had HIDs installed in my car and I was reluctant to try any of these fixes to disable the DRLs so I have just left my light switch to the on position to get around the flicker. Since my inspection is about up I was nervous bringing the car in because if they turned the lights off they would see the flicker and may fail the car. Finally this weekend I brought it to my friend who works on electrical systems for all types of cars and showed him the work around and asked him to do it for me. He looked it over and said he could do it or if I wanted the DLRs to still work as they were intended he could make that happen with the HIDs and he would stop the flicker. I chose to go that way since DRLs are a safety feature that I am not sure if disabling it in MA would cause issues with inspection stickers. He did some quick soldering of a couple wires and pulled a relay out of my fuse box to push a wire in along with the relay and boom flickering stopped. I basically now have HID DLRs. I can turn the switch to “off” and all rear and sidelights go out but I have bright DLRs. When put the switch to “on” the rest of the lights come on as they should. I like this method too because now my NAV will auto dim too which was a pain in my butt to keep changing it manually.

Ok, so to bring up a dead thread, I contacted MobileHID a while back about the slim ballasts crapping out in winter. After a few weeks, they got back to me, and he shipped me out a set of the "heavy duty thick ballasts" -- the same ones they used before by the looks of it.

So I removed the old ones, had to wait until it was closer to 0C so that the zip ties wouldn't snap the moment they were bent, and braved the cold for the install. Redid the DRL bypass in a project box, and I'm happy to report that even in -20C they fire up quick and haven't blinked out yet. But who knows what will happen in the future.

On an interesting note, I guess it's because one of the bulbs was newer than the other one, but it was lighting up slightly greenish instead. I expect that will change the more they're used, but I can now happily report that I can actually see the road at night again even after some jackass in a SUV sprays up dirty snow all over my headlights.