six foot deep...been a pleasure talking with you. Your going to be happy with the lights.

As for the post about the light pattern being washed out...I asked the experts at SG why this happens with some bulbs, because i have noticed the same thig with a set of HALO brand bulbs I got on ebay to compare to the SG bulbs. He said that when manufacturers make xenon bulbs they raise the wattage to make the light bright but that brightness and color make them not effective at distance... the more reputable bulb manufacturers, like sylvania,PIAA,SG raise the wattage for brightness but also increase the lights lumens, which equals a brighter light with better distance. SG bulbs are on average 1700 lumens more than most of the big name xenon bulb companies.

The most important thing when upgrading bulbs is to get an aftermarket harness...it;s basically just a 10" length of wire with male and female plugs. It plugs into the stock plug that goes into the stock headlight...then the other end plugs into the new bulb. This harness has heat resistant plugs because xenon bulbs do get hotter than stock (not hot enough to burn the light housing at least not my bulbs) but the main thing is the new harness has thicker gauge wires to allow more voltage to the new bulb. Without it your not going to get the full 80 watts of light output from the new bulbs....there just isn't enough juice transfered through the stock wires. You will see a difference in light output with a new harness...and they are only around $5 a pair at any auto-zone, advanced auto,pep-boys....almost any auto store.

This is my opinion and only an opinion. I first purchased PIAA and they were a lot of money plus they did not give out that much light. The distributor replaced the first 3 sets free of charge then they said that their must be something wrong with my Mitsubishi for burning headlights so often about every 6 or 7 months. Finally I purchased some from ebay, these were called Xtreme 8500K and they were higher wattage. They came with dielectric grease for the connectors. These have been in my Outlander now for over a year and a half (75000kms) and are the best lights I ever installed. I can light the dark side of the moon

Do you have a pic of the harness?

I read your post and went out to the nearest AutoZone and asked the guy behind the counter (since I didn't see one along the aisles) for the harness and the moron started looking up relays for my car. :puzzled:

I didn't have time to go to the better AutoZone or Advanced where the ppl that work there actually know their s**t, so I just went home. :auto:

Now, I am outta town and I dont know about the parts places out here. Most ppl out here that work on their vehicles have Monster Truck looking rides. A pic would really help if you got it.

***UPDATE ***

Ok, I found a pic of the harness. They sell it on ebay FOR $20 BUCKS!!! +$9 S+H.

Gonna try pep boys tomorrow. Hopefully nothing has burnt out on my stock connector.

For anyone interested here is a pic of them....

Oh well. Just bought them off the ebay guy.
Went to various Autozone, Advanced, etc. all I could find is the male end of the connector and they were selling it for $11, so twenty for the whole thing seemed equal.

Hopefully this will make my lights brighter.

I'll post pics when I get them to show any difference.

The main reasoning behind a harness is that it is a thicker gauge wire which can handle more power. This means that you won't melt your stock wiring with a higher wattage aftermarket bulb, since you are pulling 80+ watts on 55 watt line. It might be a bit brighter, but not sure by how much thou. It's more of a safety feature then anything.

Speaking of thicker wire gauge harness consider this: It is not enough to use a jumper harness to solve your overheating issue. If you want to solve your problem, you should replace the whole circuit, from the circuit breaker or relay to the bulb.

Changing just the end of your harness is BS, it will fry anyway on the thinner portion.
Think of this: a chain is as strong as its weakest link, same with electricity.

Good luck.

Well, I guess my previous post should have been as a reply to this post


Speaking of thicker wire gauge harness consider this: It is not enough to use a jumper harness to solve your overheating issue. If you want to solve your problem, you should replace the whole circuit, from main power (circuit breaker or relay) to the bulb including the ground wires.

Changing just the end of your harness is BS, your wiring will fry anyway on the thinner portion.
Think of this: a chain is as strong as its weakest link, same with electricity. It is just a basic principle (any fuse works on this principle)

Good luck.

master.axu....

I had the guy @ autozone speak to me about upgrading the relay, so I understand your point there.

Forgive me, if this is a dumb question, but which ground are you talking about replacing and where is it located?

Did you already do this? Or did you just go the HID route?

I do schematics for vehicles for a living. The bulb has two wires: one comes from the battery, the other is the ground (which basically also comes from the battery but through the metal structure of the vehicle). I didn't look at Mitsu, but if you can find a schematic it should tell you exactly where the positive and the negative wires comes from, or you can just strip the existing harness on the vehicle to find out. Both wires will need to be replaced with larger gauge, and now that you mentioned, the relay might also need replacing, depending on the current (amps) that it is rated at.

I almost forgot: the fuse might need to be upgraded too.

I hope this will help.

I apologize if I was a smartass in my previous post, I was tired.

***UPDATE***

I received the harnesses and put them in. It is slightly brighter, I do see the difference.

I have had the bulbs in for a little over 2 months (w/o the harness), but when I separated the factory harness from the bulb.... I didn't notice anything close to the wires or connectors frying.

Well here is a pic of the harness connected on one side of my vehicle.

Can you tell which side its on? :puzzled:

Pardon the grainyness... I took the pic w/ my cell.

(IMG:http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s1/BeigalBeigal/Image003.jpg)

I have a small question,

Will 55W and 65W bulbs, for the Low Beam and High Beam respectively, work without having to change the harnesses and other stuff? I really would like to avoid the complicated stuff as much as possible to avoid any risk of damaging my Lancer. >_<

Yeah, they we're working fine for me.
I just added the harness with thicker wire to make the bulbs brighter.

Its nothing complicated, you wont be cutting or soldering anything.
You just put the harness between the factory wiring and the bulb.
(IMG:http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s1/BeigalBeigal/Image001.jpg)

(IMG:http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s1/BeigalBeigal/Image000.jpg)

But I had the bulbs in for quite some time w/o the harness and all was fine, so I doubt there is any danger.

Its just I wanted it at full brightness, which I now have... with no issues.

ok well everytime i try and go to the 2nd page it wont let me so i didnt get all the replies :) but.....anywayz i installed my Luminics Pure blue low beams today and love them it looks so d amn clean compared to stock...any ways now for highbeams my stock drown out the clean blue light from the low beams and i dont want to get some white aftermarket halogens that will also drown out my lows ...so should i go with luminics pure blue 9005 or get the violet's????? any suggestions let me know