Yeah 3si doesn't Fu$K around.

We're doing the PM thing right now and I'll report how it turns out. I wasn't planning on purchasing two turbos, but if that's the way the cards fall (and the price works), so be it :)!

As you suggested, he does indeed appear to be selling two rebuilt and balanced with wastegate 14b turbos for $450. I guess there's nothing inherently wrong with having a spare!

Edit: Cash has changed hands! I'll keep this thread apprised of ongoing progress. Currently, all credit is due you EMC 3000gt. Thanks :)!

or you can sell the other

Had this same problem I drove it for 3 months thinking I was going to have to get a new Turbo even took the waste gate actuator off and had a shop test it

Come to find out the problem was the cheap plastic line running to the pillar gauge had a split in it the best I could get out of it was 4psi
So it sounds like you have a vacuum leak some were

His compressor wheel doesn't spin.

Tell me about it :(!

Well, on Saturday 19th (when I paid for the turbos - instant payment) they were going to be shipped Tuesday 22nd, and here it is the 23rd with supposedly his wife going to ship them since he just had hand surgery. Like he didn't find out until Monday he was scheduled for surgery! Pardon my attitude, but I really hate this *** -- when people set up obligations for themselves (especially when money has changed hands), they should make a point of meeting them, or at least being darned close -- which is no less than what they expect of others.

Your going to get your turbos.

And I may have found a buyer for the second one.

Yikes, that was quick :)!

I was anticipating they'd arrive by Friday (PA to DE), so I could launch the teardown/install, but now it'll hopefully be next week sometime! Been doing some under-the-hood cleanup and painting (could do with a couple more insulator to hood spring clips -- only have six of eight :(.) I really enjoy taking it out, but it sometimes feels like I should get out and push when in traffic. A 2 ton car with a 2L mill is underpowered in this day and age -- and it's very obvious from the cockpit (perhaps there are breathing constrictions with it having to bypass the normal intake path.) My xB at 1-1/2 ton with 2.4L can beat the pants off it like this. The turbo isn't just a cool accessory on these cars -- it's a fundamental part of the design.

In the meantime, progress on making a new rearshelf is good (just ordered carpet from JCWhitney) and my Piezo Buzzer for integration into my Keyless Entry just arrived today (looks like install will be tiewrap city, no screw mounts :() -- plenty of things to work on for a few days.

By the way, I've mentioned this before and I'm mentioning it again. My gearshifting hasn't worked this well since the car was new, 18 years ago. Completely changing the oil (as opposed to the owner and service manual mandated top-off) is clearly critical -- what can I say!

PM adrenaline1273 (On this forum) He's interested.

Well, the two turbos arrived today! I'm still finishing up one last addition to my keyless entry security system (enable security with remote door lock), but then it's turbo time! Perhaps tomorrow! (Just want the remote entry complete and stable before I move on to the turbo tear down :(!)

You will find that a lot on dsms. You will need to start another project before you even finish the last one...

Which why things are always broken on these cars because the owner don't take their time.

Happy to report the security/keyless-entry setup is working just the way I had in mind (though naturally, there's a side issue I may revisit! Can't decide whether it's a "feature" or a "defect" :).)

In any case, after enjoying my new keyless-entry system as long as I could, it was finally time for my poor 1990 GSX to come under the knife! Turbo replacement time :(! And naturally, the most awkward to access lower heat shield bolt doesn't want to give in :(!

I pulled the air intake can to get access to the transmission reverse switch (for which I just this evening purchased a 24mm DEEP socket :(!) and found the air filter is looking pretty tired. Since the whole can was replaced in 2002, and not all that many miles have elapsed, I'm wondering if the body shop transferred the donor filter as well as its can :( (had a full diagonal right corner clip replacement due to a winter snow storm slide!) As far as I can tell, they included a number of economizations during the repair (for them, not me:(!) In any case, it's obviously time to replace it!

I'm hitting the Liquid Wrench pretty hard, but hopefully, sometime tomorrow all the bolts will be out and the replacement install will be underway. The exhaust heat shields are pretty darned rusty and I'm contemplating cleaning them up and repainting them silver (or maybe flat black?) before buttoning everything up -- though that's really futures at this point. However, as usual, I have a healthy whack to a knuckle that needs to heal -- never fails that something gets clobbered :(! Thank God for Peroxide and Betadine :)!

Try PB Blaster instead of liquid wrench.

Did you get a new turbo gasket?

You may want to think about SS Braided oil feed line.

Just be sure to take your time. If you get frustrated take a break. And when you put the turbo back on your probably gonna need an extra set of hands to hold it up.

PB Blaster? That's another new one for me. Is it significantly more effective than my long term staple -- Liquid Wrench? (Which used to be liquid, not aerosol.)

I've wondered about gaskets, but wasn't sure what I'd need. Probably should have one for the head to header, the header to turbo, and the turbo to down pipe -- just guessing. If I can get it apart tomorrow, I can check around for gasket replacements.

Haven't even reached the oil lines yet (still have one semi-frozen bolt in the header to turbo quad. Plus the p-in-the-a right-hand bottom shield bolt mentioned above :(.) One upper header nut came out with the head stud -- that's not what I want to see! I can't even attack the lower header nuts until the bottom heat shield is out of the way, but somehow, this is the way it always is -- patience being the key :)!

What's the story on the SS Braided oil line? If there's definite value, I'll probably go for it!

It's really just one step at a time for me. If I can accomplish it without enlisting aid, I probably will, but I've away to go yet before I seriously contemplate that issue. I notice one of the two turbos lacks the single stud for header mounting -- a job for a machine shop?

The two frozen bolts I earlier mentioned finally came free. However, I'm having no luck removing the dip stick tube. Any tips on how to extract it? (It prevents removal of the lower heat shield and limits clearance for O2 Sensor access.)

Looks like I need a special tool for the O2 sensor so that will be a PepBoys trip -- pick up an air filter as well.

Got all the nuts and bolts loose on the header except for the under side dead center. A 12mm wrench will fit from above, but is too short for leverage. A ratchet can't grab it from the front due to the angle of approach -- though perhaps a wobble adapter would work (guess I'll find out.)

Had to remove the left radiator fan assembly. The manual says to relocate the power steering pump, though I'm wondering if that's really necessary. The vacuum hose to the wastgate actuator seems to be permanently bonded to the diaphram inlet :(! Gaaah! I can see why the dealer charges around $600 for labor!

At least, replacement of the gearbox reverse switch was pretty easy :) (with all the hoses out of the way!)

If anybody hast any good tips/suggestions on the dissassembly, I'm interested!

Well what i did, since i don't like the heat shields (i think they are just a noisey POS), i took the top two off by hand, and took metal cutters to the bottom one so that i didn't have to take my o2 sensor out... Even though a couple weeks later i had to replace my o2 sensor.

Dip stick should NOT have to move. The heat shield is like three bolts....

Rip the heat shield out...

Well, the wobble worked and all the header nuts are free, had to purchase two tools (first couldn't handle the torque) to finally get the O2 sensor out, but the heat shield is determined to stay (I can neither free it nor cut it), so it'll just have to come out with the rest of the assembly. Both the service manual and Haynes say to remove the dipstick tube, and I guess heat shield removal is at least partly why. From the diagram, it's sealed by an O-ring, which probably hardened over 18 years and is why it won't budge. I don't know, it seems like there are rarely small jobs on this car, they generally end up oversize :)!

Looks like I've selected a great time to work on this -- sporadic rain and thundershowers forcast for four days beginning today. They're right so far :(!

Anyway, after the car is running properly again (preferrably with no dip stick tube related oil drips,) I may just reward it with a set of rims -- those oem jobs just aren't looking that great these days. Time for a little browsing I think :)!

PS. Ha! Found my rims -- Enkei J10 black to go with my white GSX with black roof!

PPS. Darn! Turns out the Enkei J10 black rims aren't currently available. Got to monitor the site and re-order when they are :(!