Finally got the turbo out of the vehicle and stripped of the external trappings (header, flange, oil and coolant fittings). That gave me my first opportunity to closely compare my old unit with the two that arrived Tuesday.

The good news is that one appears to be a perfect match for the original, and so I'll be installing that one. The bad news is on the other, the central block with the oil and cooling ports is rotated aprox 180 degrees from standard. There's also apparent shipping damage to the wastegate diaphram nipple (deep dent and partially broken free at the point of attachment to the diaphram housing) that will have to be corrected.

So, thanks for all the assist thus far :)! I have to go get a fistful of gaskets this afternoon and some replacement reinforced vaccuum hose so I can tackle rebuild this weekend. If there are any good suggestions on how to get the second turbo converted to standard (and the wastgate actuator repaired), I'd be happy to hear about it!

Thanks -- Trevor

EDIT: It finally occurred to me I can't install the turbo without having the necessary header mounting stud installed, so I just took both to a local machine shop I used to frequent to have studs installed. Turns out the rotation issue is refferred to as "clocking" and apparently they can reclock it for me. That would just leave the wastegate actuator nipple problem, they may or may not be able to repair that -- to be seen.

In any case, no turbo install at least until Tuesday, maybe Wednesday :(! Still, I've ordered the gaskets and hopefully, everything will be ready to go by the time the turbos are back.

Saturday: Interesting discovery today, even though I had a hard to extreme time removing a few of the bolts/nuts (most notable being the exhaust flange to pipe nuts, one actully bringing the stud with it), I didn't break anything. However, I discovered one of the head to header studs had been previously broken (farthest from the belts!) That's interesting since until now, only Mitsubishi mechanics have ever touched the engine, and I've no idea why it would have ever been necessary to remove the exhaust manifold! If it was broken during removal, then it would have been easy to replace (as I just did, though now I need an appropriate nut for it), if during install, then that would be serious overtorque and should never occur with a half-decent mechanic! Really strange!

In any case, the two exhaust flange studs should be replaced (as well as the nuts), especially the one that came free -- the nut appears welded with corrosion. Turns out NAPA Auto Supply can't get those studs (not in their listings), so I have to try the dealership on Monday.

So, I wouldn't have been able to reassemble this weekend anyway -- between the stud and nut issues plus limited rust removal and painting, I'd probably be out to Tuesday regardless!

PS. Thanks for the tip on cutting the lower shield. it was much easier to cut after removal so I've trimmed off the rearmost portions that caused the trouble. I prefer to keep the shields on so as to help maximize the life of other nearby components.

EDIT: Just realized that what appeared to be mere exhaust manifold "guides" (never seen that before) are actually TWO MORE f$%^&*g broken studs, courtesy of some local dealer "mechanic". That's a total of three studs broken, probably all by the same piece of biped s%$t under dealer employ!

Sunday: Managed to extract the further two broken studs (nearest the belts) -- combination of thread repair and jam nuts. That'll allow restoration to pre-dealer "mechanic" condition.

The exhaust flange studs have an atypical thread 11mmx1.25 -- standard would be either 1.50 or 1.75. If anyone knows a good source for those studs and nuts, please let me know. I'll be visiting the dealer parts counter Monday. Need exhaust manifold mounting nuts (three), exhaust flange to pipe studs and nuts (two each), and maybe the turbo turbine housing to exhaust manifold studs (one per turbo). If he can get them for me, it'll probably be an additional two days before arrival. This is definitely working out a longer duration job than I anticipated.

I hate DSM cars and turbos just make them worse. Always expect to do spend double the amount of time that your thought you would spend after you you extended your time line from your original thinking.

If you need help let me know.
If you need help sourcing parts let me know.

when in doubt click here

you can never have enough!!!!

Thanks very much fellows :)!

That Slowboy outfit seems like a real good source. As it turns out, I've been able to pick up exhaust manifold studs at NAPA for $2.09 each. The nuts from my local Mitsubishi Dealer parts counter at 60 cents each, and I got stainless steel washers from Sears Hardware, though they are a little thinner than stock. I've also ordered one turbine housing stud for $8.70 (I'll reuse my original for the other turbo), two replacement flange studs for $7.95 each (the ones with the odd thread) and the two mating nuts for $2.00 each -- all those from Mitsubishi of course! It looks like the Mitsubishi parts pricing is actually competitive -- surprise, surprise!

Given the $8 price, I should probably have just stayed with the one semi-good flange stud, but at least it will be a clean rebuild (I'm re-dressing the threads, can't do that with 11mmx1.25) and I picked up anti-seize compound from NAPA. Anyway, all exhaust manifold studs are now properly in place, I've told the machine shop to expect a stud for the turbos by Wednesday (will probably give them the exhaust flange to restud too) and hopefully everything will be ready for installation by the weekend. I can see this is going to be a SLOW week :(!

it's amazing how we spend 1,000,000,000 hours in the garage just so that we can make our cars can get places faster, spending less time in them. Time is the worst dsm enemy. :gunsmilie:

At least the delays give me more time to contemplate under-the-hood cleanup :)! Decided to hit the air filter can with rust remover and repaint it (a lot of rust on that boy), so that won't be ready for reinstallation before Thursday. Perhaps I'll detail the "ECI Multi" on the throttle body and the "Mitsubishi 2000" on the valve cover :)! Outside of getting back to work on my hatchback shelf project (having to make one), there's not much I can do before the parts come in and the turbos and exhaust flange are ready. Of course, now that access will never be easier, perhaps I should replace that very brown looking radiator outlet hose :)!

Tuesday: Yahoo! My parts came in and the machine shop now has the studs and the exhaust flange -- a good chance of the turbos and flange being ready Thursday!

Also, I ordered rims last night and they're reported shipped with delivery Wednesday (kind of dumb, Newark DE to Newark DE -- a complete waste of $34, but pickup isn't supported.) Should have retired those oem jobs years ago, but I just didn't realize and was periodically spending $160 a crack to straighten bent beads -- got stuck with buying a new one two years ago for $240 :( (only had a bicycle and the damaged Eclipse was at the dealer!)

Oh, yes! Picking up new radiator hoses from NAPA this afternoon (ordered this morning.) I just may have this car running yet :)!

PS. Discovered from the UPS tracking detail the "Newark DE" warehouse is actually in Baltimore MD. That's easier to accept paying $34 for :)!

Wednesday: Whew -- talk about SLOW! Only thing of note today is my rims arrived.. I immediately did a test fit and then delivered them, together with my existing mounted tires, for tire remounting -- don't know what I'll be doing with the oem rims yet, check-in with a junkyard maybe. Other than that, cleaned out the coolant overflow tank, installed the lower radiator hose, other odds and ends. Hopefully, I'll get word the turbos and flange are ready some time tomorrow (too much to hope I'd be able to pick up them and the wheels at the same time.)

Wondering how to make the old brake calipers look not-ugly with five spoke wheels that expose them! Somehow, I don't think just hitting them with high temp black paint will do the job -- but I really don't want to have to remove them for derusting and painting :(! The fronts especially, they're a lot bigger than the rears (course, if one does the fronts, perhaps then one's forced into doing the rears :(!).

i wasn't able to find a link just yet, but they do make caliper paint specifically for brakes. some paints require a 24 hour cure time though but you seem like you have the time for that :thumbsup:

p.s. if you do happen to call slowboy ask for chris. tell him pwee says get ready cause he's going to call soon :grin:

Auto zone has the paint, its actually called caliper paint. Comes with the the cleaner a brush and paint.

Works really well.

Thanks much fellows :)!

I succumbed to the inevitable and hit all four with rust remover, together with portions of the knuckles and rear trailing arms. Did the flange portion of the oem brake dust shields as well, and realized I don't have one on the right front (passenger's side.) So, I guess it's time to look for a shield for that corner (looks tricky since aftermarket "keeps-the-wheel-clean" shields apparently go by the same name :(!) After cleaning it all up, I'll hit the non-caliper portions with standard black, have to decide between black and silver for the caliper paint -- thanks much for the tips! (Yeppers -- 24 hrs dry time is NOT a problem :)!)

It takes hours for the rust eater to do its thing, but I noticed alot of the undercoating in the rear wells is missing -- gave the areas a wash and will hit them with Wesley's undercoating later on. Got to get some odds and ends (including caliper paint), but I'm awaiting a call to pick up the wheels (which'll probably take two trips anyway, want the new rims flat and that takes space.) It's amazing how practically every "incremental" step ends up a production! I guess that's the difference between working on a new car Vs an eighteen year old car :)!

Silver It will look OEM but slightly better.

Picked up the wheels and old rims (stashed in the new rim boxes) in one trip, that Scion xB is just great for such a small vehicle :)!

I was leaning towards silver, but my Autozone only had black in that kit you mentioned. I guess I could try Pepboys and see if they carry it -- just never noticed it before (though never specifically looked either.) Still, black would definitely work since my new rim spokes are also black! First pass rust eater did such a good job, I may not need a second, but looks like I should also do a Wesleys on portions of the front wells -- rear wells look HUGELY better :)! Undercoat takes 24 hours or more to fully dry as well :(!

This is a wet day and drying time is attrocious. It's probably going to take at least two days before I can re-install the wheels (forecast is wet too.)

On yet another note, I just re-installed my Pepboys leather shift knob to get rid of some recurring looseness (not that you folk ever took my shift knob purchase seriously anyway -- it's OK :)!) I retapped the three set-screw holes from 4mmx.80 to 5mmx.90 (no drilling -- it's aluminum), drilled out the screw contact points on the plastic inner sleeve (removed any significant plastic remnants within the sleeve), and hacksawed off the tip of the sleeve to remove the cap (which allows the knob to drop further down onto the shift shaft.) Installed three 5mmx.90 6mm set-screws and the shift knob feels MUCH more secure. Plus, the shift throw is shorter yet :)!

Locktite on the screw threads will make that shifter never move again.

I doubt the issue will arise again, but if it does, I'll keep that in mind -- thanks :)! I think the problems were the original 4mmx.80 threads stripped on one screw socket (too fine and small a thread for the aluminum casting) and the plastic sleeve prevented stable attachment (would wear with use) Going to a larger coarser thread, removing the plastic from the equation, and allowing the set-screws to contact below the shifter threads seem to make a big difference. As always -- time will tell!

The calipers are now silver! I tried the next nearest Autozone (MD), and they had yellow and black kits, but again, no silver. So, just went to my erstwhile local Pepboys, picked up a can of caliper silver, masked all four (already cleaned and derusted) and performed the transformation. Boy, do they look different from rust orange or post rust-eater whitish grey :)! I'm not clear how many coats should be applied, but having done two, I think one more will be it -- it's not as if there's all that much surface area! Tomorrow, I'll mask off the calipers and repaint the blacks. After that, the only significant rust remaining will be on the edge of the brake discs, and I think I'll survive that :)! (Not much inclined to do much with strut rust -- perhaps I should, but I'm in no rush -- the knuckles, beams, and calipers interest me more.)

Still haven't heard from the machine shop, and my two attempts to call around 4:30pm got a busy signal. It'll be very disappointing if I have to wait 'til next week for the turbos and exhaust flange :(.

Best bet is to call around 2:30. They will be back from lunch and happy to take another break.

Word is they may well have my pieces done late this afternoon, which I guess can also be read they may well not! In the old days they used to take one to two days tops to get modest machine work done, looks like they've been sliding out :(!

Beautiful day for painting (he said as he pulled on his raincoat!) The silver calipers look good, but made everything else look so bad that I went ahead despite the rain. Masked out the four calipers and brake lines (plus dried some water from a trailing arm -- useful things, hair dryers) and hit the blacks (prep done yesterday.) Couple more shots and that'll be done, though I can see I'm boxed in on the struts. They'll be the only eyesore left if I don't clean them up a little :(!

EDIT: Oh, DARN this is a drag! Just learned the removal of the exhaust flange nut that brought the stud with it also significantly damaged the flange thread. In otherwords, they'll have to restore the original thread with a helicoil in order to securely install the new studs. As mentioned earlier, the stud thread is non-standard, meaning they'll have to order the necessary parts. So, not only are we talking some $90 dollars in unexpected cost (bad enough), but we're also talking another week! I could cry! (And I DID use Liquid Wrench, plenty of it in two doses :(!)

EDIT2: Just learned they can switch to a standard metric thread (11mmx1.50) and have the flange ready by Monday (same additional cost). However, the damaged turbo wastegate actuator vaccum inlet repair remains an open question. Curse Staples and their totally incompetent UPS packaging department :(! That problem is entirely THEIR fault!

EDIT3: Just removed the masking from the black paint application and it might have been better if I'd used satin black rather than gloss, but still, it looks a lot better than before. I'll attack the struts Saturday -- let this paint dry awhile! (Though no time like the present for rust-eater :)!)

Any idea where I can get a replacement wastegate actuator?

EDIT4: Looks like Wesleys is no longer in vogue at PepBoys so I just picked up some Duplicoat "Professional" rubberized undercoat to hit my wheel wells again. Beyond a rinse for the rust-eater gel Saturday, they may well be done (good enough so that my new rims don't end up looking bad :)!) The real questions at this point are the exhaust flange studs and the second turbo's wastegate actuator - but are now out 'til Monday. That leaves the hatchback shelf as well as sillguard installation on my Scion xB. Should be enough to occupy the weekend :)!

Saturday: This will probably sound crazy, but after rinsing the struts, I masked them out, cleaned the oem springs, and hit them with gloss black. Then I picked up a small can of Rustoleum satin-silver that provides an amazing match to the strut low luster silver (better than my spray paints), and brush painted the struts. The wheels are now on and look great, except for the rusty brake discs -- I'm not sure I really want to fool with them!

However, I would still like to find an oem style dust shield for the right front (passenger's side.) I'll try the dealer Monday, but probably won't connect :(! Outside of the hatchback shelf, that's probably it for the Eclipse this weekend! Turbo has to wait at least until late Monday -- perhaps Tuesday :(! Still, the delays are resulting in a partial makeover for the car, not all bad I guess :)!