Will 1st gen eclipse rear disc replace the 3rd gen GS rear drums, I ask because there are a couple sets at the local junkyard A cheap mod maybe

my advice for you is to check out www.4g64.com and go down to where it says things FOR SALE and there is a conversion for that on there for sale.

It's not a cheap conversion I can tell you that. It is possible to do but it's not cheap or easy that's for darn sure.

yeah ive heard its a **** but i think its worth it cuz i hate having drums so ill prolly do it soon lol

Yea, it would be worth it to have discs all the way around.

dude you should be able to swap the drums for the rear disk brakes on the G3 GT the suspension is different, but i think you can have custom mounts made for the switch. i would definitely ask pwee05 about it, or EMC 3000gt. there should be a moderator who knows another member who has done it.

once you have found out if it is possible, a good site to find rear disc brake calipers, and disks from a G3 eclipse GT is http://www.car-part.com or http://www.uneedapart.com

good luck and i hope that helps you better.

Yea that would probably be better than trying to put the 1g rear discs on the 3g. Cause the 1g has an independent braking system, whereas the 3g has a dependent braking system. Don't know what all the differences are between the 2 but I do know that it's easier to bleed an independent braking system. And that it would be easier to swap the 3g GT discs to the 3g GS or RS.

disc really isnt any better than drum on the rear, in fact... the only bad thing about drums is how long it takes to change them out.

rear brakes dont stop you as much anyways, it's not worth the trouble and money to switch to discs.

Not only do you have to get the discs, but you also have to get the hub assembly, the e-brake cable... it's just not worth it.

True. How true that is.

Thanks guys for the info, I may just stay w/ rear drums. Can I Easily put better or bigger rotors up front though?

SAME SUSPENSION SHOCKS AND STRUTS. BUT YES GT OR GTS REAR BRAKES

I think you should be able to go slightly larger on the rotors on the front but I wouldn't mess with size. If you want better stopping power you should go drilled or slotted rotors. DON'T get both, slotted and drilled rotors are horrible, they crack or warp. But I'd go slotted or drilled if all you're looking for is better stopping power.

first off man, drilled and slotted is the best kind of rotors you can get,(for stopping power at least)

second if you buy some name brand performance rotors with actual quality metal material instead of the steel ones they sell on e-bay for cheap as ****. you won't have that much of a problem, maybe if your actually racing your car every weekend and you use your brakes a ton you might have to worry about that. yet again if you were that much into racing you would also have your brakes air cooled as well from a body kit with a air cooler brake vent.

i would expect about 150-250 bucks for a nice pair of drilled & slotted rotors. if you buy the 50-70 dollar ones, your looking for some problems. its all in the amount you pay. if you don't care about your car, by all means by crappy parts, but if you care about your car, and since we are talking about brakes. if you care about your life, i'd suggest you not opt for the cheap ****!

drilled and slotted is the worst thing you can do. under extreme conditions, they crack like you wouldn't believe. I have seen it firsthand on a set of brembo rotors... and those are pretty **** high quality if you ask me.

Dude I know some people first hand that got drilled and slotted rotors for their daily driver, and they cracked like none other. Even if you air cool them they will still crack.

Like bobthecow said he's seen Brembo's that were slotted and drilled crack.

It's by far one of the worst things you can do brake wise. Even if you go with the most expensive and well made ones they'll still crack.

Warped a set of drilled slotted on an EVO in 3 laps at watkins glen. No need for them at all.

The drilling and the slots help cool the disk faster. not stop the car faster.

go for a hard drive and spray water on your rear disks, now go around front and do the same, that alone will show you which set of brakes work harder.

(Don't complain when they crack because you did this)

i would never intentionally spray water on my disks. thats in my opinion is borderline ignorant. i know when you wash your car you get water on your rotors, but intentionally doing it, come on why would you even suggest it? water + brake dust = loss of brake power

and yes cooler rotors stop better than hot rotors. once they reach a specific temp they tend to glaze the brake pad making it harder to grip the rotor.
drilled & slotted rotors heated to their maximum temp = better stopping power.
regular rotors heated to their max = burning brake pads. bad stopping power!!!

i happen to have drilled and slotted high carbon cast iron with silver zinc coating rotors on my car, have had them for over a year now. no cracks, no warps, no problems so far. i also use ceramic brake pads and i happen to have a custom air cooled brake scoops with water filters and tubing system. that way my brakes don't ever have problems with heat issues.

the reason for any brake warp or crack is from excessive heating and then cooling. i don't have temperature problems so i don't even worry.

true they can still crack just like all the others, but thats true for any drilled brake rotor. i had some e-bay drilled only rotors on a ford escort.(came with the car, not by my choice). they cracked on me in a month. then i replaced them for some high quality drilled and slotted rotors........ no more problems with the rotors after that. i drove it with the new rotors for 3 1/2 years i owned it for 4.

the spraying of water was to see which set of brakes actually does the brunt of stopping.

Well nobody said that the slotted and drilled will crack all the time. But then again there is alot greater risk of them doin it then just slotted or drilled alone. And the other ones you said cracked, EBAY......need I say more it's a good thing they cracked on you as soon as they did so you could get rid of the pieces of junk. But drilled and slotted are just more than is necessary on alot of cars. But it's up to what the individual wants.

I converted my RS from drum to disk - total cost was $240.00. I got all my parts used from C3G, total time for this job was 1 hour. You wont feel a difference driving around town but you will at high speeds.

Reasons i did the conversion,

Disk brakes look better with nice wheels.

Drum suck to work on when they need replacement (shoes/springs).

Also when doing this job I installed a rear anti-sway bar, HUGE difference when taking corners.