Hi All,
I have a 2001 (51 reg) Shogun 3.2 DiD lwb which I picked up a few days ago from an auction - I think I've been done as it has an over heating issue. On paper it looks good - full mitsubishi service history and has done 68k miles. I had been running round in it for 3 days without issue. It blows a little black smoke on a cold start, and a little white smoke (though someone has told me its blue smoke) but this clears after 10 mins.

On the 4th day after about 25 mins drive I noticed the tmep shooting up. I pulled over to find the expansion water tank was completely empty. I filled this up and let it cool down (didn't want to put water directly in to the rad incase it damaged it) Long story short I had another 1hr journey in which time I had to stop several times to let it cool down. The only thing to note was that 2 twice when the temps started to shoot up, it suddenly started to cool down to normal for 5-10 mins, but then the temps went back up. When I got to my destination I rang the brake down service (AA) who came out after about 2hrs and worked on it for about 45 mins. After getting it up to temperature, he did a chemical test on the cylinder head gasket which came back negative, pressure test system - no leaks, no build up of pressure and used one of those laser point temperature readers at various section of the engine/radiator - he could not find any issue and the shogun did not over heat. He followed me back for 10 miles without issue, as is always the way he turned off at the bottom of a steep hill which I got half way up and the temps shot right up in to the red. I pulled over to find the expansion bottle full and bubbling/boiling. By the time the tow truck came 25 mins later the water had been sucked back in to the radiator.

A friend who is handy with cars took a look today. He's advised there is no oil in the water or water in the oil and was unable to get it to overheat. He did advise it looks like someone has been trying to fix it as the thermostat has been cut and drilled so it is constantly open. He advised to get a replacement thermostat but thats more of a 'worth a try' idea. The bit that confuses me was that the couple of time the temps dropped quickly after nearly getting in the red.

Could this be a intermitent issue with the water pump? (any other ideas more than welcome!) The only thing I guess against this being the issue is that it seemed to overheat more when underload (ie going up a hill).

thanks for any thoughts!

My first guess is the thermostat but since this has been altered I suspect something more. I would say that you either somthing with your water pump or most likley a blocked radiator. I'm afraid to get to the bottom of this you will need to do some more work on the system.

First off I would change the thermostat and then completely flush the coolant out and see what come out of the radiator. While you do this take note of the hot/cool spots in the rad to see if you have areas where it may be blocked. Make sure you also open up your interior heating controls and see if you inner core is working.

Jim

Very simply the radiator is blocked. Coolant gels in the radiator and is a common problem on NM Pajeros in Australia. Read this thread.
Pajero Club Forum
Dave

thanks all - I'll post back once I know

Well after costing me £100+ at a garage with the correct computer, where they changed the thermostat, water pump & flushed the rad I've been advised that it is most likely a cracked engine block (oh he did mention the heaters seemed to be working ok). To be honest they said they didn't take the head off but it looks like someone has had it off already, but his 'gut' feeling is that its not the head but much lower - most likely a cracked block which he said was a known issue with shoguns. He said you could buy a second hand engine but most of those about are knackered. His advise was hold it for a few months then put it back on the auction.

As I don't have a couple of thousand (the friend who looked at it orginally advised he probably could fit a 2nd hand engine for £2500), and while I accept its not nice stuff (ie runs the risk of blocking the wrong things) I was looking in to the various block sealants out there. Seems the only ones I've seen in the UK are k-seal, seal up and steel seal. I've read nightmare stories and success stories - alot of people who have never used them and are quite vocal they would never touch it. I realise it won't be a permanent fix and really a replacement engine is probably the only solution.

Does anyone have any experiences of using any block sealants? ( and specifically k-seal as this seems to be the one I'll go for as its seems to have had the most positive results)

Thanks for replies

Like said previously , when i first read i had an idea of a cracked cylinder head or gasket . Hence yu mentioned the smoke that was white or blue. Thats coolant mixing in a hot exhaust stream. The issue could at first been a water flow issue /water circulation issue with the thermostat and definatly the radiator not supplying sufficient enough cooling to the engine. the problem could have been at a minimal , but still there before yur purchasing it , and really just surfaced after yu got it. On DiD pajeros it is a mixed thing , ive werked ona few that teh head gasket was bad and the cylinder head was warped after having cooling system issues with the radiator and overheating. Its a CI cylinder head so they take a beating..to a point. I bit of plaining done to the cylinder head in teh shop after a pressure check to make sure it isnt cracked and upper end set and good as new. Always have yur old head checked before going off and getting another one .

...just a word to the wise the k-seal (ceramic sealer with copper) seems to have done nothing but make things work. The climate control seems to have stopped working (doesn't blow either very hot or cold) and the radiator seems to have massive cold areas - presume blocked....overall fed up. Looks like I might give the liquid glass sealer a go though reckon I'm up the creek without a paddle

:blownose:

Hard lesson but your probably going to make matters worse. Many of these miracle sealers do just that seal everthing including your radiator, heating core and sometimes the damaged areas you want. With the high compression with diesels it is very unlikley to work on the head/block leak.

As you already know your options are few. Rather than buy another engine I would look for a damaged vehicle even if you have to import from Japan. This will then give you all the parts you need plus some extra. At the end you can on-sell to the wreaker or part out yourself. It does involve alot of work but you can substaintially cut your losses if you are prepared to do the work. I'll attach a good auction website from Japan which may be worth a look. Damaged vechicles (grade 0) go for a song so you are really only looking at transport plus some dealer commission.


http://www.japaneseusedcars.com/auction/auctions.htm

Jim