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 Change Spark Plug Leads?, Change Spark plug leads?
 
ibrox
post Jun 3 2008, 12:24 AM
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hey,

First post, hopefully someone can help.

Currently have a 1998 KF Mitsuibishi Verada.

Recently had the distributor changed, but at times its struggling to start, i've noticed a spark coming from the distributor.


I read somewhere its probably best to change the ignition leads, i hear the front 3 are easy enough to do, but the back 3 are a bit more involved.

Anyone done this before and if so, got any advice??

Ta
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KiT TeUnG 2549
post Jun 3 2008, 08:43 PM
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Well many times over ive dun it on various models. A spark should not be coming frum teh distributor. The Distributor cap can be cracked and the internal ignition coil is outfiring , meaning the fire its spossed to send to the cyllinders via the internal leads in teh ignition cap its not getting most the time. The current the coil is sending is leaving, possibly thru a cracked section of the distributor cap and arcing of a nearby ground. This happens when teh distributor cap is over tightened and it cracks up the side.

The rear spark leads require the upper intake plenum to be removed.
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ibrox
post Jun 3 2008, 08:45 PM
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Thanks for that.

I've checked for cracks on the distributor but i can't seem to find any, if i spray some oil spray (WD-40) on the distrubutor and leads and then dry it up, it works fine for a few days, then i see the spark again.

would it possibly be dodgy leads and i would need to change them ?
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KiT TeUnG 2549
post Jun 3 2008, 09:23 PM
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It cracks can be hard to see if the cap is still on the car. Its and odd thing to see. Where the lead boots connect at the cap there may be an issue there also, if they have sealing issues , or the lead boots possibly cracked. Spraying the WD-40 will moisten up the lead boots and also close the "open arc" temporarly. making a temp seal in sorts to speak. I would replace the leads and the cap and ignition rotor
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ibrox
post Jun 3 2008, 09:25 PM
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I might try with the leads first.

The distributor it only baout 4 months old.

So if there is a problem with that, am sure there is some sort of warranty involved, because i won't be paying for another one, thats for sure.

The leads look pritty old and crusty looking, so that might be the best bet to start with.
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chain rattle
post Jun 4 2008, 01:01 AM
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:00000732: to the forums

lift the bonnet at night when it is dark and the arcing will be more noticable

good idea to change the leads and the plugs at the same time

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ibrox
post Jun 4 2008, 01:03 AM
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Yeah i can see the arcing, even during the day.

but its def coming from the top of the cap, maybe the cap is broken ?

I might have to try and get it off.

Any tips :)?
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KiT TeUnG 2549
post Jun 4 2008, 01:50 PM
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Thus he has a 98 so i really do not think he has the engine that yu are talking about. Hence why i said to remove the rear leads and spark plugs he has to remove the upper intake plenum. He has a SOCH 24valve head where the leads go thru the cam cover , not like the older SOCH 6G7 as in the older Diamante /Magna/Verda . And as for the distributor the ignition rotor is a push on , but do take precaution to the direction its pointing.

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chain rattle
post Jun 4 2008, 06:32 PM
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thanks KiT TeUnG 2549 :grouphug:
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KiT TeUnG 2549
post Jun 4 2008, 09:07 PM
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QUOTE(chain rattle @ Jun 4 2008, 06:32 PM)
thanks KiT TeUnG 2549 :grouphug:
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Its no problem at all , its all in a days work. Ive learned many things frum yu knowledge as well.
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ibrox
post Jun 4 2008, 09:10 PM
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Thanks guys.

That engine is the one i have, makes sense on what to remove after looking at that.

I'm not sure where to start, wether i remove/replace the leads, or check the dist cap.

As i said the distributor is aboout 4-5 months old.
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KiT TeUnG 2549
post Jun 5 2008, 12:37 AM
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Servicing the leads and plugs are always a good thing. I can walk yu thru the process and give images of that same engine so yu kno where to go. Its not as bad as it looks tho . But i would definatlly replace the distributor cap. My drawing is not the well altho i love to do bitmap illustrations LoL. The coil is located internally in teh distributor. It has a cavity to which the ignition coil lead will enter the distributor cap . The lead follows an outer wall of the cap so any crack to that area(arear od the distributor cap facinng the back of the engine bay/firewall/back three cylinders) So if teh cap isnt seated well or cracked frum over tightening , since the base of teh distributor is metal/aluminum , it will easilly conduct the coils spark to it. Most times the cap looses spark frum being overtightened , and they crack at teh base, and being the screws are around the area where the coil is positioned internally in the distributor would make it arc outside teh distributor easily .

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EMC 3000gt
post Jun 5 2008, 10:23 AM
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I would change the wires first as that solved my arching problems.
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KiT TeUnG 2549
post Jun 5 2008, 06:59 PM
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Yes weve gone over that , BUt since he had changed out teh distributor his best bet is to inspect the cap , Yu have distributorless ignition system , he does not. His distributor has an internal ignition . Which there is an distributor cap screw right at the area of the distributor cap where the ignition coil lead enters the distributor cap , thus if overtightened , and its easy to do so on these type of caps on this model distributor , the cap will crack and split right up the side seam where it bulges where the ignition coil lead enters the cap and can cause massive arcing and causing it to not start most times . Altho servising teh wires is always a good and needed thing , BUT , the cap seems very likely to be the most likelly place to start.
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