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 Help Urgent, Regarding my spyder
 
Spyderboy97
post Jun 11 2008, 07:37 PM
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Hi everyone, I'm 1 hour fresh in this forum so nice to meet everybody. My problem is that I bought a 1997 Eclipse Spyder GST with 62,500 miles. The car overall was in good shape, had aftermarket spoiler, 60,000 miles maintenance (timing belt, oil change, clutch, pressure plate) DVD player, 3 monitors, Turbo timer, Blow off, projectors, altezzas, alarm sytem, inmobilizer and a few more things. When I saw the car I liked it a lot, but the owner told me a few problems that the car had, No oil pressure was marked on the instrument panel, fuel was only marked until half tank, a noise when the tranny was shifted hard, tires, power locks didnt worked, didnt had a horn nor High beam lights. Well, I bought it and the next day the car didnt wanted to shift even when I fully pressed the clutch. I took it to the mechanic and he told me that he needed to lower the tranny to verify, today he called me and told that the transmission was 3 milimeters away from the engine and thats why it didnt let me shift. It was missing 2 screws and the others were loose, so he put new ones and adjusted to others to see if that worked so I can save some $$$. He worked on that but know we told me that was some sort of noise on the transmission so he needed to lower it anyways. I'm waiting to see what happens, but my questions are, does anybody knows why the oil, fuel reading isn't working? Also I don't know why but when I come to a stop the engine almost shuts down, it gets to almost 200 RPM. Also if someone can give tips to make it work great for a long time, where to buy pieces for cheap, and where I can get the convertible top frame because it has new canvas but the frame has few details. The turbo spools perfect and the engine seems to work well. The problems is the one mentioned in the tranny. The car is intented for daily use and to go easy on it. Please reply, thanks :57:
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pwee05
post Jun 11 2008, 10:18 PM
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:00000732:

it is easier to address one problem at a time with these vehicles and the 0 oil pressure reading should be your top priority. if its just a malfunctioning gauge thats great, but you need to know that one first. oil is the life blood of any engine
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EMC 3000gt
post Jun 12 2008, 10:46 AM
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Oil pressure sending unit for the oil issue. I doubt the car would drive very far with out pressure.


The float hanger on the pump assembly is probably bent and won't go lower then half a tank.
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Spyderboy97
post Jun 16 2008, 05:24 PM
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Well, thanks, I will get the car tomorow and see how it is doing, also, the mech told that this car has been used for racing really hard, I honestly don't know, I was worried about the turbo state, I asked the mechanic and he only spooled it with his hand and told me it is working fine, but I dont trust in that so can anyone told me how to check if everything in the turbo is al right? Also please someone help me to determine which turbo my car has (the stock or another one) I'm new to turbos, so I dont know much about them, just in case I will use Mobil syntetic oil on it and a mobil oil filter and fuel injectors fuel system cleaner, to see how everything works...
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pwee05
post Jun 16 2008, 05:33 PM
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if you can take a pic of the turbo that will help big time.

to check it take your intake pipe off and spin the compressor wheel with your fingers to see if it spins freely. also wiggle it side to side and in and out. some side to side wiggling is acceptable but any in and out is bad.

it probably wasn't raced too hard with all the dvd player and monitor crap in it. usually anyone who seriously races tries to save weight and not add extra junk
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Spyderboy97
post Jun 16 2008, 05:49 PM
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QUOTE(pwee05 @ Jun 16 2008, 05:33 PM)
if you can take a pic of the turbo that will help  big time.

to check it take your intake pipe off and spin the compressor wheel with your fingers to see if it spins freely. also wiggle it side to side and in and out.  some side to side wiggling is acceptable but any in and out is bad.

it probably wasn't raced too hard with all the dvd player and monitor crap in it. usually anyone who seriously races tries to save weight and not add extra junk
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LoL, I honestly dont know, I say this because the mechanic told that the engine has been used really hard, and the engine seems to be wet in oil, I dont know why, i will try to see if I can wash it and see if it leaks from somewhere, also with 62,800 miles, does someone thinks it is worth a fuel filter or should I wait more, also, is there any problem if I use my yard's water hose to clean everything under the hood? And about the racing, we may never know because with so much jerks around, who knows if they didn't even stepped it out of the redline :wacko:
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pwee05
post Jun 16 2008, 06:18 PM
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don't spray the hose under the hood. you might be ok but everyone I know that has done this created some kind of problem. I don't know why IMO

the engine should have some oil spots on it, thats normal. if its actually 'wet" and dripping oil thats bad.

does your turbo have a pipe that comes off the oulet that looks like a 'j' or does that outlet come out from the bottom of it towards the passenger wheel?
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Spyderboy97
post Jun 16 2008, 06:29 PM
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QUOTE(pwee05 @ Jun 16 2008, 06:18 PM)
don't spray the hose under the hood. you might be ok but everyone I know that has done this created some kind of problem.  I don't know why IMO

the engine should have some oil spots on it, thats normal. if its actually 'wet" and dripping oil thats bad.

does your turbo have a pipe that comes off the oulet that looks like a 'j' or does that outlet come out from the bottom of it towards the passenger wheel?
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well, the engine is not "dripping" oil but neither has just a few spots of oil, the problem is that the engine looks like it has loose parts, the intake is sitting loose on the engine, the coolant reserve i hanging with an invent, thats what has me worried, it seems like the car has been fu..ed up, and also, the car looks like it has been crashed because the hood and both front fenders were replaced, just let me get the car on my hands again so i can take a few pictures of the car so you can help me out better, and thank you for your help
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pwee05
post Jun 16 2008, 10:24 PM
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:thumbsup: post pics and we will tell you for sure
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Spyderboy97
post Jun 27 2008, 09:35 PM
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Well, hi again, I wasnt able to connect due to another things I had to do, but here is the deal, I fixed the Oil pressure and gas also, the problems were due to a bad installation of the indiglow dashboard panels. But now I have another problem, whenever the wants when idle it is like to 2300 rpm and another times it is by 1000 or something like it, obviously this is not normal so I was wondering if someone could help me, Thanks
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MadHatterEvo
post Jun 28 2008, 12:45 AM
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http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/t37124-idle-problem.htm

That should help on the idle problem.

As far as the rest of it, it sounds to me like the last owner didn't know how to torque anything down, and so after repeated abuse/racing, it all came loose, and because he/she didn't know what was wrong decided to sell it.

As far as cleaning the engine, at your local autoparts store, they might have this stuff called Black Magic. You spray it on when you get home from the grocery store or any driving, so that the block is warmed up. Then let it sit for about 15 minutes, and spray it off with the hose. Makes the thing look almost brand new. You don't just want to spray the hose in the engine haphazardly because you might wet the fuse panel or the ECU (I think thats what that thing is under the bump in the hood). It would be wise, when you use the water to wash off the Black Magic, to have the water on just over a trickle.
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militaryman108
post Jun 28 2008, 01:06 PM
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QUOTE(Spyderboy97 @ Jun 11 2008, 07:37 PM)
I took it to the mechanic and he told me that he needed to lower the tranny to verify, today he called me and told that the transmission was 3 milimeters away from the engine and thats why it didnt let me shift. It was missing 2 screws and the others were loose, so he put new ones and adjusted to others to see if that worked so I can save some $$$.
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That is bad. Very very bad. I know because the same thing was happening to me (except it was about an inch and a half). Frequently check the two bottom screws and make sure when you push the clutch down the tranny doesn't move AT ALL. If you drive it when the tranny separates, you will greately increase your risk of your engine crankwalking, and also it puts a tremendous strain on your seals and bearings.
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