This is how you would hook up your vacuum lines and boost lines to and from your your turbo/s to your boost gauge and or controller.

(IMG:http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h103/Blackdiamond512/diagram.jpg)

If you don't have two turbos you don't need the T connection before the controller.

Important: if you have two turbos the hoses before that T need to be equal length for even boost response.

Just to add one thing,

NEVER 'T' off the vacuum line that goes to your fuel pressure regulator for the boost gauge. I don't know how many time's ive seen people do this because on the 1g/2g eclipses it's the closest one to the cockpit. They can't figure out how to get the line through the firewall so they go ahead and use it thinking nothing will happen. And then they wonder why they are having fuel issues.

Yep Yup this is actually recommended by many people, they are wrong.

1g/2g eclipses should not remove their BCS (boost control solenoid) until you have some type of fuel management system. The BCS helps the ECU control timing depending on how much boost there is, so leave it there unless you have good fuel upgrades and a management unit.

Basically,

The DSM ECUs have partial control over the amount of turbo boost through the use of the boost control solenoid (BCS) a.k.a. the wastegate bypass solenoid. Under normal driving conditions, the BCS is open and allows the wastegate to open at the normal intake pressure. Should the ECU detect a serious problem with the engine, it will often close the BCS, causing the wastegate to open sooner and lowering the turbo boost produced.

The ECU uses the BCS to reduce turbo boost in several situations. Should the ECU detect a large amount of airflow into the engine, the BCS will be pulsed off and on to reduce the air intake to acceptable levels. This can lower the turbo boost significantly, and usually only occurs at high RPMs. This is usually a temporary problem, which disappears when the intake airflow drops to more normal levels.

The ECU will also close the BCS if it detects significant engine knock. Knock, also known as preignition or detonation, is a damaging condition brought on by excessively advanced ignition timing, lean air-fuel mixtures and/or low octane or poor quality gasoline. The BCS is the second and last line of defense against knock - the ECU will first retard the ignition timing in an attempt to prevent knock. If this fails, the BCS will close to reduce the intake air flow (and boost pressure) to a minimum value, hopefully eliminating the knock at the expense of engine power.

A simple LED monitor circuit can be constructed to check the operation of the BCS. If the BCS is pulsing, or remains closed during typical engine operation, it means that you may have some other problem that is making the ECU very nervous. This is often accompanied by retarded engine timing, resulting in a further power loss, all of which makes the car much slower than it should be. Note that the operation of the BCS monitor is not necessarily intuitive - study the Troubleshooting section, this issue of the Diagnostic Port, and the Boost Solenoid Details page very carefully before deciding you have a problem.

If the BCS is not operating as expected, suspects include poor quality gas, excessive turbo pressures, injector malfunctions, oxygen sensor malfunctions, and anything else that can lead to a low-octane, air-rich mixture inside the cylinders. Differences in mass airflow sensors from car to car will also affect the operation of the BCS. (taken from http://www.dsm.org/menu.epl?item=169) it was easier than typing it myself :P


1g guys you will fuel cut around 15psi, toss a 2g MAF in there to help with this.

2g guys be careful how much boost you increase, the stock turbo is just a runt