if i bought a t3 turbo manifold for my 420a. could you bolt a 14b up to it?

nope the flange is different between the two turbos.

no sir. also Im going to give you a little hint. mitsubishi turbos are a PAIN in the **** to pipe to an intercooler, FMIC or SMIC dont matter... (im talking about on 420a and 4g37 motors. you need to work with whatever angle to compressor housing happens to open up with (btw you will be required to get a custom made manifold so that makes it a bit easier) Garrett turbos are more flexible, and you can rotate the compressor housing to suit your angle needs and ease piping pains. This said, on my 1.8 build I did not go with best fit in mind. I chose the turbo that best accompanied my hp target and would be most efficient. turboing a 420a is basicaly the same process as turboing a 1.8 (actually turboing a 1.8 is a bit easier believe it or not.) so if you have any questions let me know... im almot done with piecing toegther the pieces so should not be long before I start to install them all...

here is what you will need at the least:

2) custom manifold (any exhaust shop can do this but try to get them mandral bent if you can it ill REALLY help)

3) turbo of your choice

4) wastegate (unless it is internaly wastgated like the 14b is)

5) I cant stress this one enough.. a stock 1g BOV or one that vents back to the intake, if not you'll be wondering why your being left behind. venting to the atmosphere SEVERELY upsets the AFR sometimes enough to drown the motor between shifts.

6) You need a downpipe, preferably 3" you cna probaly find on for the 420a on the net, if not you will need to have one made

7) upper and lower IC piping (same as above but the lower piping you may opt to use a length of aircaft grade hose make sure its the good stuff tho and not radiator pipe.)

8) a FMIC or SMIC, remember you will not be pushing that much boost at first unless you decide to build your motor before-hand so you dont want to get one that is too big. a factory SMIC would really suffice at first.

9)AFC Neo, SAFC, or SAFCII, or some other type of air/fuel managment system. (REQUIRED!!)

10) fuel upgrades. somewhere betwen 330cc-450cc injectors would suffice, the fuel pump depends on ho much boost you will be running and how much power you will be making. to give you somewhat of a guid in my 1.8 I can run 10-11psi on the factory fuel pump with no problem.

11) Oil lines - use braided steel oil lines.. nothing else.. they arnt normaly availble over the cunter at most auto parts stores bt you can usually find them at hot rod shops or even online (Summit Racing has them). You can tap the oil feed off of the place the oil pressure sender screws into. Just screw in a T-fitting behind the pressure sender. The oil return will depend on your turbo. You will need to drill, tap or weld an elbow onto your oil pan for the oil return. If you use an oil cooler, hook it up to the oil return from the turbo. That's where the oil is going to be its hottest. We want it at about operating temperature. Nothing below.

12) Oil cooler this one is optional and is more of a luxury but Ill tell you.. it makes things really nice if you do op to buy it and they only run around $150-$200. Why would you need one? Here's the scenario. You're driving on the freeway, and you decide you romp it and open up the throttle for a little while. You're cruising along at full boost for a few minutes, and eventually slow down and have to stop. Your oil light comes on. So you pull over and check your oil, and you realize it's still full. This is viscosity breakdown. The oil has been pushed to its limits and is now the consistancy of water. Not good. To prevent this from happening (or at least slow it down considerably) you'll want an oil cooler.

13) a turbo intake and filter. just use one made for the gst/gsx or get the pipe on ebay and a nice filter.

14) with the 1.8 the pistons are domed. To me, adding another headgasket was the same as increasing the deck height, which didn't change the geometry of the chamber as much as different shaped pistons, and didn't change the behavior of the engine as much as shorter connecting rods would. The quench area in the chamber is different, but since the pistons are domed rather than dished, they don't have that foot-ball shaped quench area, they have a boomerang shaped area. I am not sure of the geometry of the 420a chambers and pistons but you might look into it. if you go with 2 head gaskets you lower the compression ration a bit thus allowing you to run bit more boost. if you do use this method make sure to install one, squish it down (in the 1.8's case 60lbs of torque is the magic number here but will be different for the 420a) take it out, do the same with the other gasket, take it out spray copper sealant between the two then put them both in and squish them down to whatever you the max torque you can safely torque to is (in my case it is 85 lbs.)


I really hope this info helps.. if I think of anythingI forgot ill let you know but if you have any questions feel free to ask =) I have been reading up on this for a long time and know just about every secret there is haha.


also just t let you know, if you do this, you will be splitting your main oil supply between the motor, and the turbo. You NEED to run synthetic and change at least every 3000 miles. It's going to turn black in no time. If you're worried about low oil pressure, install a transmission oil cooler (3/8" line) that taps your turbo's oil drain line and put an extra quart of synthetic in the sump to keep it cool and this will keep it up a few PSi during spirited driving. Or, install an oil filter relocator kit and feed the inlet with an electric oil pump.

sry for the long post but I hope it helps =)


EDIT: forgot to mention a couple other parts:

15) a MBC or EBC (I prefer MBCs but that is just me)

16) Boost Gauge... (how I forgot this one I do not know.. >.> lol) Make sure its a good one. AEM, Autometer, Glowshift (I have done some reasearch and the more I read the more I see good feedback on the Glowshift gauges, I have not personaly worked with them but I purchesed one for my 1.8 turbo setup so when i get it installed I will let you know how it is.)

17) Wideband - again a luxury not a necessity. but I HIGHLY reccomend one.. will make your life SOOO much easier. (rather costly tho... nad be sure to get the AEM UEGO... only one worth the money...)

Also, I did some digging and found that the double head gasket Idea will not work with the 420a due to the geometry of the pistons and chambers. your best bet is to buy some low compression pistons and rods at the very least if you wish to turbo a 420a. sorry to be the bearer of bad news. =(

^^^ I think he nailed it all :thumbsup:

lol i just turned a 15 min break at work into a 30min break writing that up lmao.

i'm just stuck on a fence.


turbo the 420a

sell the car and get a tsi

How much do you like AWD? How much HP do you wanna push?

i would love awd.

bescause i live in pennsylvania. we get snow and ice.

plus i already have another car which is rwd

but just the project would be alot of fun. its taking something slow and making it a beast.


oh and around 300hp on 93octane

psh.. you dont need awd drive in PA... I have 2 FWD and my dad has a RWD durango and i never once had a problem. especially my eclipse since its a MT. I say you be different and turbo that 420a. Sure selling it and buying a GSX is the logic always takes the fun out of things :P im turboing my 1.8 because im tired of people bashing it and i think it would be cool to be differnet. plus blowing by a honda in a 1.8 would be even more satisfying than if i had a 2.0 :P it would be like saying, "I just took your setup and stil kicked your ****.!

not if you know how to drive :thumbsup:


anyway, the t3 manifold would be perfect because like jon said it is flexible. however, it is more flexible than you think.

For example: if you take a 14b turbo. you can essentially turn it into a big 16g or even an evoIII 16g with a new compressor wheel, little machining and a new exhaust housing.

Now, lets talk about garrett. You can take a 50 trim that flows 38lb/min, change a wheel and a housing, which will turn it into a MONSTER 60 trim that flows 52lb/min and spools the same with mild streetable characteristics. :thumbsup:

OK one more thing I forgot and it is VERY important! 2.5"-3" exhaust piping!!! DO IT if not you'll regret it.