11) Oil lines - use braided steel oil lines.. nothing else.. they arnt normaly availble over the cunter at most auto parts stores bt you can usually find them at hot rod shops or even online (Summit Racing has them). You can tap the oil feed off of the place the oil pressure sender screws into. Just screw in a T-fitting behind the pressure sender. The oil return will depend on your turbo. You will need to drill, tap or weld an elbow onto your oil pan for the oil return. If you use an oil cooler, hook it up to the oil return from the turbo. That's where the oil is going to be its hottest. We want it at about operating temperature. Nothing below.

well, the missing link is the cheapest easiest way to go but does work.  However, it depends on how much boost you want to go with, and how much money/time you want to spend.  Under 14psi it will be ok. Above 15 psi they start to fail.

the best thing, but more expensive, is to get rid of your FMU. get an aeromotive 1:1 rising rate fuel pressure regulator. create a return fuel system using a -4AN(female) to -6AN(male) adapter and attach that to the fitting on the end of your fuel rail after removing the core inside of it (just like a valve stem core in your tires).  Run the fitting with hose from the rail to the FPR, then run a return line from the FPR to the return fitting on your fuel pump housing.  Then,,,, get a GM 3 BAR MAP sensor and run a vacuum/boost line to it.  Unplug your stock MAP sensor but leave it there. Cut the wires from your stock MAP sensor plug and wire up the GM sensor as follows:

with the nipple of the sensor facing you so that you can see where the plug would go in to number the contacts 1, 2, 3.  contact 1 is your ground.  contact 2 is your sensor output signal.  contact 3 is your 5v source.  I can't remember the exact colors of the wiring on your car but a chilton's manual will tell you. I can look them up if you need, i'm just at work right now.

You will have to increase fuel pressure and use an AFC to adjust fuel characteristics to make it work. The reason is almost ALL map sensors use a 5V signal. your stock one will send 5v at 0mm/hg and 0psi.  the 3 BAR map will send a 5v signal near 30psi. so we are basically "tricking" the ECU into believing there is no boost, compensating with the AFC and fuel pressure regulator instead of using the missing link to "hide" the boost.

this way is much more difficult but you will get a better tune out of it.  The missing link isn't bad but don't be scared if it leaks and you fuel cut.

it is a good idea, especially since you want to stay with a stock engine for now, to get some kind of wideband sensor to watch your air fuel ratio. They usually run around $279 for a good one depending on what brand and who you get it from but they are well worth it.

ohh as far as the fuel issue i am using the imfamous Walbro 255 lph (i think i spelled this right)

Where do you guys tap into for the oil feed?

Ok theres pressure there from the pump if I'm not mistaken which is where you get the pressure. I skimmed the thread not sure if that was answered or not.

But you didn't tell him its the oil pump that creates the pressure... GOD I hope I'm not wrong on that!! ;)