could i put a 4g64 bottom end on my 4g63

i have HEARD the 4g64 bottom end is better and that the tranny is better too i am thinking about getting a 4g64 tranny and putting it on my 4g63 help i am going to boost it with a high flow manifold and a 16g ported

what do you think i should do cause i know the 4g63 tranny is CHEIT

Well , i for one have personally done a 4G64 bottom end on my 1990 Galant VR-4 . I sold my original 4G63 bottom end , and opted for a 1995-96 4G64 2.4 bottom end. The bottom end is actually very strong. It has a main bearing girdle just like the other DOCH engines etc. The 4G64 tranny depending if its a manual tranny its a F5M33 , the same as 4G63 turbo , and the automatic tranny is a F4A23 or but the F4A32/F4A33 but are a little harder to find since most turbo models were using W4A33 awd trannies.

The major thing that yu need to kno, The 1st generation DOCH head does fit nicelly on the 2nd design 4G64. But there are important factors , there are extra oil drain back wholes on the 2nd design 4G64 block , that the 1st design 4G63/4G64 didnt have. So to use yur original head , which i did on the newer block yu will need to have these ports closed. Wut i did was used casting plugs (um i think most people call them freeze plugs?) Anyway on the extra drain back ports i used a (2)12MM (2)10MM and like a 9.5MM casting plug to cap off teh extra ports. I found mine at a machining shop , they are hard to find because they are small in size. I put mine in and they fit just fine.

Use a new cylinder gasket for the 1st gen DOCH engine , not the 2nd gen. Things yu will defanatlly need frum the 2nd gen 4G64 will be the flexplate (flywheel) ,the oil pan because the oil pump is diffrent , I also put a new water pump on , yu will need a second gen water pump , its alot diffrent than the 1st gen water pump. The coolant connector pipe that connects to the waterpump and goes along the side of the block to the lower radiator hose will bolt as normal .

Altho , one key note . Very important , the bracket that the PS pump and front part of the engine mount bracket bolts to will need some shaving. Yu will easily see , with the waterpump on teh block it is easy to see how much needs to be grounded off. The area where the waterpump extends to for the connector pipe is the area that needs to be grinded down. Without doing this the bracket will not sit properlly on the 4 bolt holes where it bolts on the block with 4 bolts where the oil dipstick tube enters the engine.

The area needs to be grounded up to give the proper clearance around the water pump extension area where it connects to teh water coolant pipe. After that is done it bolts in place effortlessly. Also the use of yur original engine mount block bracket (one that sits in the middle of the timing belts , will be needed for use on the 4G64 Block. and IMPORTANT not is that yu MUST use the correct length BOLTS on the bracket , as for there are diffrent lenghts of which 2 are short , because the number 1 cylinder is right behind , and using bolts that are 2 long will have yu binding the bolts against the cylinder walls inside the coolant passages.

The original 4G63 DOCH lower timing covers bolt right on , also yu will need a 4G64 DOCH timing belt because it is one tooth longer than the DOCH 4G63 , the deck height of the 4G64 block is higher than the 4G63 is the reason. Also i omitted the use of the front balance shaft belt , the front balance shafts were problematic on the 4G64 engines as well as 2nd gen 4G63 , . Also Yu can use either or hydrolic tensioner and the adjuster wheel , but yu need to use them as a pair , yu cannot use the 4G64 hydrolic tensioner and the 4G63 wheel and adjuster they will not meet. I found it easiest on later conversions to use the 4G64 hydrolic tensioner and adjuster arm with the idler.

It should be easy to get since yur getting the 4G64 block. I used my 4G63 tensioner set but had to grind up a small amount of the adjuster arm so the arm would have full swing because it is a small amount too close to the water pump when initial adjustment of the timing belt. The onlee smaller factors , the bracket that bolts between teh upper portion of the front left and right side of the block i had to slot them.(ill take pics for yu , i am upgrading my cams , so ill show yu wut im talking about) the reason is that the deck if the engine , the height is a little higher than the 4G63 engine because of the slightlly longer stroke , so if yu do not slot it the upper part of the lower timing cover will be a few MM to low to bolt up, because with the taller engine deck the brackets that are bolted to the engine for the timing cover to bolt to will be slightly higher. The top timing cover there si no way to get the rear side bolt to bolt in , with the cylinder sitting on a higher block it will be impossible, but the 2 top bolts that hold it to the cam cover work just fine.

Yu will HAVE to use 4G64 DOCH head bolts , i had to, the 4G63 DOCH head bolts are smaller , the 4G64 head bolts are bigger , must be DOCH head bolts. Besides that everythin is fine. The rear of teh 4G64 block has a teh 2 bolt slot for the motor mount bracket like the 1st gen ones. Altho ....the front of the engine did not so there came my issue of how to bolt my lower front engine mount.

On my conversion it was not easy as for i have a W5A32 transmission , so as seen in a pic on a similar page about sumone using a 1st gen bellhousing on a 2nd gen. So i had to fabricate a special bracket to get this to work. On other conversions i did that were not AWD models i simply used a 92.5 up tranny. The 92.5 up auto and manual ones have bolt areas on the transmission for the motor mount brackets . So it was easy to on other conversions , on non turbo ones to use a 92.5 up F4A23/F4A32/F4A33 auto tranny or F5M22/23/33, and turbo models a F4A33 for auto use or a F5M32/33 manual tranny with the Galant tranny mount bracket, it extends to teh right position of the lower motor mount.

Paragraphs is your friend.....

maybe , maybe not

oh it will. or else

i cant bring myself to read that long post...

will at less its not one huge run on sentence.

Better long and detailed , rather than short and non-sufficient.

And to the MOD , i just think i got wut yu were saying , generally in writting in Thai most things coincide and run on without paragraph seperation the least , so forgive if i made it more complicated to read by not dividing the sections?

Hahahaha.... Attack.... forgive??? You've got to be jokin :P

hell yea that answered my question to a T i am so glad to have you on this forum thanks so much and a few more questions are

what would be the final displacement

and would it be hard to turbo the whole system without BLOWING IT to the moon and back

The engine will still be 2.4 liters (2360 sumthing) As for the compression i am not sure , as for it all depends on teh head gasket and if there was any planing work done to the cylinder head. Lots of the conversions i have done were for the exception of a few like mine were all NA.

The general compression will be around 9.5:1-10.0:1 . Ive seen a few 4G64 depending on the year have flat top , to slightly domed pistons , getting a good head gasket with a mesh limit that will drop compression frum the near 10 to sumthing like 7.8 to 8.2:1 is a very good and safe range to do a fair amount of boosting and have loads of low to mid range TQ with lots of mid to upper range power. My ST compression on my car is about 8.0:1 , and im boosting right around 1 and sumtimes 1.2 BAR of boost nd it seems to be holding pretty well. Its stock bottom end. I would not really tel yu to boost that , maybe a little , im basically attempting to see how much my stock parts can handle.

Im gradually bringing the boost up. Ive done the conversion about a little over 6 months ago and its been great . Onlee issue i had was with the front balance shaft belt which broke , like lots of them do , and it almost costed my engine , it popped and started rubbing against the cam drive belt and the belt started to wear in , anyway , i discontinued the front balance shaft belt on all the other conversions i have done except 2 , which i inspected how easily it turned , and also since they were on auto transmission models .

OOOOOOOO see i was expecting to get another 100 horses out of it (after all the mods)

Much better. I read a couple of line and that is it. i was getting a head it from it.

I enjoyed it :thumbsup:

I also have a tendency to put up long detailed posts when a tech questions is asked. The only thing i've found that helps break it up is using multiple posts instead of one huge post, but keep em comin, good info :clap:

just in case; 1BAR = 14.5 psi

1.2BAR boost = 17.4psi boost

the reason for doing this mod usually isn't for hp it is for the torque. hp sells cars, torque wins races :banana:

Exactlly, i was looking for a broader , wider and greater available amount of TQ , yeah sum extra HP came of it but the TQ delivery seems alot more readily available earlier , as was before.

Along with more displacement will come more torque and you will also spool the turbos quicker.

I am under the impression that there is a .4L differences between the two blocks, correct?

yes, EMC, you are correct.

Thats a nice bump in displacement for a 4cyl.