intakes i adjust at no less than 0.007/0.006 , but regular specs are at 0.008 on the intake side , and 0.010-0.012 on the exhaust side . Basically unplug the distributor wiring the main and coil wire on the distributor. Ive always adjusted it after the engine is warm and the engine oil has reduced in viscosity.

A good feeler gauge . After warmed up , unplug the distributor wires. remove the (2) 10MM bolts from the upper timing cover , they bolt into the cam cover. Then remove the pcv hose and the spark plug leads, etc and the cam cover retainer bolts.

I use a breaker bar to turn the crank. It will go right into the crank bolt. Turn the engine to TDC , yu can see the mark on the crank and lower timing cover. when on TDC yu can adjust the following valves. number 1 intake and exhaust , number 2 intake , number 3 exhaust , number 4 intake and exhaust .

Turn the engine a full revolution back to TDC , recheck the number 4 intake and exhaust valves , make sure they are not overly or under adjusted frum the first check and adjust . Check the cylinder number 3 intake , cylinder number 2 exhaust , then recheck the cylinder number 1 intake and exhaust to see if they are not over or under adjusted as for the cylinder could have previouslly under compression.

A way to avoid performing full checks again , removal of the spark plugs can aid in the cylinders 1 and 4 not being under compression when initial adjustments are made , making the adjustment more linear .

A good 10MM wrench will be needed to unlock the adjuster nut . And a good flat screw driver to turn the adjuster. BE SURE to hold the adjuster lock nut while turning the adjuster with the screw driver , and hold the adjuster with the screw driver while tightening back the adjuster lock nut. Because if yu do not , when yu turn the adjuster lock nut without holding the adjuster still with the screw driver , it will turn with the locknut and over adjust the valve setting. Ive learned my lesson LoL

Thanks for all the info and tips supplied. I'm sure mine need adjustment and will make a big diff to the running. I will have a look at once the weather has cleared and temps rise a bit. Its winter here in NZ and I don't have access to a garage.

Jim

Okies , no problem at all. Hope it goes well. Enjoying the cool weather. Im not enjoying the heat , luckily most of it is in doors at the shop garage

jim,while your under hood can you look next to fuel filter and see if yours has that round plastic canister clipped to body work with thin plastic tube going in top and tube coming out of bottom and shed some light on what it is please...steve

Thats the evaporative canister, or some call it a vapor canister. Wut that canister does is keep an even amount of pressure in the fuel tank. Wut it does is it has vent lines frum the tank that lead to the canister in front. Inside it has a large element. It also has a purge valve that is worked by the ECU , when the purge valve opens , the valve is connecter to the intake manifold via a small vacuum hose , frum the purge valve another vacuum hose is connected to the vapor canistor. There is also another vacuum valve , usually on the vapor canister or connected to it by a vacuum hose. This valve reads pressure, when the pressure is above a certain rate the ECU opens the purge valve , and has the vacuum frum the engine bring teh pressure down accordinglly. If the pressure reading is low the valve will trigure an MIL/check engine light , warning of a evaporative system leak because of the lower than operative pressure level. This usually can be due to a faulty gas cap , broken evap line frum the tank , bad evap canister , or any broken of open fuel or evap system lines .

thanks for that kit,so its something i dont have to worry about,one other small problem though,when i start mine revs go to 1800 and stay there for few minutes then drop to 900,as its 34 degrees here its not the auto choke any ideas,steve

As above the cannister is generally referred to as the charcol cannister used to regulate fuel tank pressure and return lines.

Only thing I can think of with the high RPM is the AFM acting up. Try pulling aprt your intake and clean off the little sensor in the air flow. Spray clean with some electrical cleaner but don't touch it as it can easily be damaged. Might also pay to spray clean any connectors under the hood as sometimes they fail to make a good connection between ECU and sensors, injectors, etc. I had this problem with my Pajero and it ran (and shifted) much better after cleaning all the connectors.

Jim

Its lesser of thought tho , some of these i have seen in the northern area as we live in a mountinous hill area , after time if the spring valve in the PCV valve stays open , it can suck too much air through from the engine into the intake and cause a higher than normal standing rpm. The pcv valve has a check ball type in it to allow a certain amount of air through it to the intake .

I try to service the pcv on vehicles every 40,000k or better . The pcv valve is a very important part in the ventilation of the crankcase.

A stuck valve can also lead to excessive engine gases into the induction which clogs up the AFM. Best to check PVC or replace when you remove the induction for cleaning.

Jim

GOOD AFTERNOON NEW ZEALAND!!

wuts giong on Jim?

jim/kit,i will clean that little sensor and see what happens,do i need to do anything on the ecu's like clean them now and again,if so how do i remove,kit that little valve that might be sticking were is it and whats it look like.steve
on a brighter note the mountains here are like large hills and i never go up them.

steve

Crap , wish i had a pic on tap , but i do not this time LoL.
On the left side of the cam cover , back area on the intake side. It screws into the back top left side of the cam cover on the side of the intake , . It screws into the cam cover and also has a hose that exits one side and goes to the intake manifold.

Um yeah i do have a pic. In the pic ive circled the pcv valve with grey ring around it.

thanks guys,what would one do without you,as now my misses has gone over to dear old blighty for two weeks i can play on it as much as i like without her interfereing that she wants to go shopping,will get tin of cleaner and check that valve.steve

its a funny old world thou,too cold in NZ to work on your car ,
its too hot to work on it here,and i bet its hot were kit lives

Sorry Steve it was after 8:00pm at night and I was long gone. Not much happening here as I've got woirk up to my eyeballs. Not doing much with the Mitsi just now as I need to get my little Toyota MR2 ready for a race day at a local track.

On another note clean the PVC and the AFM with some electrical cleaner which is safe on plastics. Not sure what it would be called in Cyprus but I'm sure you can find at a local auto or department store. Common as anything and not expensive ($10/spray can). Ours is called CRC Electrical contact cleaner.

Jim

PS: Not bad this week with lows of 3 and 10C during day. New snow on the mountains and the kids have goine skiing today with school.

The PCV valve is cheap enough , id just replace it.

MR2 huh , yeah ive done quite a bit of V6 conversions on those the past 6-7 years. a couple of 1MZ-FE's but the more heavy duty 3VZ-FE and 5VZ-FE engines mated to mainlly manual trannies on all of them. Been doing that also to the older Celica's , and work on Nissan Cefiro's etc , most of them that want to keep up with the AWD Mitsubishi's , ive been lots of work back and forth. Sorta on Holiday as for ive worked myself ragged the whole year so far, but work keeps popping up LoL.

:beer: Kongkit