Hi

I have Galant 2,0 SW -98.

I got a problem that it starts fine but dies after 3 seconds, it only do this when it is warm.
If it stands for a couple of hours it runs perfectly. Never dies when running.

Anyone got a clue what it can be?

This can be a multiple symptom. have yu ever had a problem with the engine immobilizer? When yur car starts and dies after 3 seconds id the immobilizer light (key icon) in the instrument cluster flashing? Are there any other things that are going on thats is suspect . I feel since it has good drivebility there may be an issue with the immobilizer , in most cases the ignition key.

I am also suspecting the immobilizer. Havent had any ploblems with it before.
Have never seen any keyicon in the instrument. But the problem remains when using the other key, so i dont think the key is the problem.

Sometimes the checkengine icon lights for a few seconds when driving.

Do you know if it is possible to turn the immobilizer off?

Yeah the immobilizer can be an issue . I have seen it in the older models , sumtimes the ignition lock cylinder and tumbler assembly or the immob unit itself had gone faulty , at times it was the key when there was an issue with one key and it was fine when using another key , or in cases when there was onlee one key. But since yu have the same issue with all the keys its obviously not the key. It is sumwut rather difficult to check the hall effect frequency of the tumbler.

BUt in most cases sum of the older modiles did not have the key icon and used the check engine light or a diffrent icon. There may be a communication lost at times between the immobilizer unit and the ECM . This coulld be while when driving the check engine light comes on intermitenly while driving , because there is a link issue between the immobilizer. Therefor shortly after the vehicle is stopped and then yu try to restart it it will start and kill. And after sitting for a little period when the link is reistablished and or the immoblizer fault is reset (sumtimes 10 min -30 min) the vehicle will start.

I have reworked the immobilizer unit a sort of bypass , but it still requires using the immobilizer unit and reworking the power up module inside of it

Thank you. I will se tomorrow what i can do with it. Maybe there is just a coldsold or something.

Check both units , make sure that there isnt any condensation frum the a/c box or any type of water has gotten to the ECM or immobilizer unit. where its located it is in danger of those things sumtimes. So check to see if it looks like water has gotten to them for any case, and check the plug ins.

Did not find any sign of water and the plug ins was fine. the soldings also looked good. The problem remains.

So tomorrow i going to my local Mitsubishi dealer for diagnos.

Hope it gets sorted and that it wont put a big dent in yur budget.

Got a fault code for camshaft position sensor. Here in Sweden it Costs 1500 kr = $245.
Do you know a internet shop for mitsubishi parts?

Well now we are up a creek with a paddle and life preserver. That definatly tells alot that yu were able to get a code reading now. Hmm i do not kno of any internet shops but yu should look around online , like OEM Mitsubishi parts , etc stuff like that. Yu can find a cheaper price im sure. They are very inexpensive here . They are like ฿2,626.26 here in Thailand which is roughlly about 78 buycks USD . That definatlly would cause a problem. The sensor is a magnetic hall effect signal . When it heats up the air gap between the metal and magnetic contact will become greater causing a loss of signal. While running it is sufficient enough to run , as it will have to rely heavily on the crank position sensor for a much greater portion of it timing. But upon attempting to restart the air gap is to great to send a proper signal and the vehicle fails to start.

As when when it cools down the air gap in teh sensor and its pickup decreases and the car is capable of starting. The fluctuation is the cam sensors signal is wut set of the error code.