ok sorry to repost about this but how do i know if it is good or bad? from what i know if it is easy to compress its bad, but when i go to compress it with a vice i have to use most of my stregnth. so i thought it was good but the i put it on and pull the pin i dont think it fully extends out. theres the bracket that the lil pin hit which has a pulley on it and that keeps the belt tight and whith the puill bulled i can still move the pulley/bracket. im not sure if it is the tensioner or if i may have put the bracket on wrong. and my book dont help its a 95 to 2000 haynes book but for the section with the car i have it actully shows a 94 motor(i thought that was weird but idk)

ok i think it maybe the wrong tensioner how do u tell the yr of the block? i think i have a 95/96 block and the tentioner is from a 97 i think that may be my issue idk need ideas here lol

they are the same for pretty much all the 4g63's. check how much the pin is out from the tensioner. you should BARELY be able to see the tiny hole on the pin. If the hole is past the housing more than 1/8 of an inch you need to adjust it.

is the tensioner new?

how do i adjust it? when the pin it out the hole is right at the end of the housing



edit. for adjustin do i adjust the tensioner or the pulley with the bracket and how?


edit also for the balance shafe theres a hole/plug to see if weight is at top or bottom where is it exactly. the book doesnt have a clear pic

nebody?

what are you doing??? are you doing your timing belt?

Here is how the tensioner is, there are 4 different ones:

1g 6-bolt
1g 7-bolt
2g August (08) 1995 and older
2g the rest or the run

So That can be your problem, but from my experience with mine, I am pretty sure you are just doing it wrong.

If you are re-useing the tensioner, and you put it in the vice to push it back in, just make 1 or 2 TURNS ON THE VICE every couple of minutes. If you try to force it any more than that, it will wear you out and break the part!

You need to put the tensioner on with the pin in it, and insert the special tool, found here: tensioner tool (i just used a screwdriver to put pressure on the pulley, with a pice of rubber in between so i didn't damage the pulley) This little guy slips in those two holes in the pulley so you can easily turn the pulley to tighten the belt. No matter how you do it, the idea here is that you get the belt tight enough to run, then you pull the pin and the tensioner just takes up the slack as the belt gets older.

I hope that helps!

yes im doin the timing and when i pull the pin it comes all the way out and never hit the bracket. and with the 2 holes in the pulley if i turned the pulley and pulled the pin how does that keep the belt tight? the pulley rolls so wouldnt it just roll back to where it was?

it is a good idea to get all new parts then to reuse old parts.

well i got it to tighten but i yet have to put the tensioner back on. but now theres lil to no play in the belt and ill get the tensioner on tomorrow after work and start it up again and see if all goes well. thanx HMat u save alot of hasel lol i didnt know it was that pulley. and ill getg all new stuff when i get my block out the shop dont wanna put to much into this 1. but ill let ya all know how thing go after work

+1 this little tensioner is so misunderstood. the 420a tensioner is an actual tensioner but the one on our cars is just a "de-slacker"

I am guessing you figured out that if you tur the pully and tighten the nut down, it doesn't go back? lol Sorry I didn't include that in the first one, but yeah, it's supposed to be tight, otherwise it will slip. I think you should be able to move the belt 1/4 inch back and forth if you pull/push it side-to-side.... someone correct me if I'm wrong.

You might have an issue though, i don't think you can put the tensioner on if you already tightened it with the pulley. i think that little arm goes too far down. You might have to loosen the pulley again to put some slack in it, then put the tensioner back on, adjust the pully to where it's tight again, THEN pull the pin on the tensioner.

And it's all good man, you don't have to thank me. I just think it's funny that to "properly" do it you need the tensioner tool and like some other long screw-looking thing. Really, they just make it a little easier on you. As long as you can get that belt tight BEFORE you release the tensioner, you are all good.

Yeah that tensioner is a pain in the @ss There is an actual tool and specific torque setting for that pulley if I remember correctly.

The 3000GT's are like 90 in/lbs

yea i did have to losen it to get it back on lol and now i still have a knockin issue and dont wanna start a thread for it so ill post it here




the knock is in the head. what all can knock there? and to mention the 2 lifters(lash adjusters) nest to the cam on the side of the intake mani seem to be dry/ odd lookin im almost positive it in the top area what should i look for?

ill post a pic n a vid of the way it looks n sounds so u all can see and maybe it will help out

well heres a pic im waitin the vid to go through see the dis color o think thats is the reason for the knock. what can be done to fix it




edit heres the vid well the link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yqRMbliRsTQ

Attached thumbnail(s)

i was told it could be a bent/cloged push rod. is that a possibility?

well i droped the pan today and the only issue i found was the #1 rod it didnt move up or down and it didnt move from front to back. the only ways it moved was side to side(twords the #2 rod) but it only was prolly less than a 32nd of a inch. now on the vid i posted could that lil of movment make that loud of a knock?




edit b4 i put the block in i did see the #1 cylinder wall was scratched)whick i didnt notice when i got it). it wasnt real bad i smothed it out with 2000 grit sand paper and cleaned it out. what else could be knockin?

it couldn't be a push rod because these engines don't have them.

you need to find out what is scratching the cylinder first. that can become a major issue.

It's hard to tell but it looks like there is a fair amount of gunk in the head. it's possible an oil passage is blocked up

if it the oil passage that means lifters(lash adjusters) right?


edit

did u check the link out? i was told a few other things to look for also

1. exaust leak(idk y but sum1 said that kinda weird to me)
2. bolts on tranny(which i though could be since i lost a few of them)
3. power stearing