I know that you are all going to ask what my plans are..
Here is what is to come, but first.. currently the motor is totally stock.. as well as the fuel system.. the car was runnin at 14lbs with a big evo 3 16g.. i burned up the turbo.. (different story.. lol) .. so i am lookin at buying a new turbo.. i have a tubular header don't know the brand that the evo bolts right up to.. with all other parts, so it would be nice to just bolt the new one in.. but...

Plans for the car.. (that will happen.. not dreams, plans)

hks 272 cams, new head with stiffer springs, retainers, valves with porting work done.. etc.. so a built head for short.. i am leaving the bottom end stock for now, and probably will unless it breaks.. i would like to do a balance shaft eliminator kit though.. trans and clutch set up are fully built.. will do a walbro 255 with 650-700 injectors.. a super side mount intercooler... the rest of a hard pipe kit.. dsm link

and that is about it.. it has full 3" exhaust..

I don't know what to expect to run for power.. i am wondering if a different turbo than the evo 3 would be better.. since i am purchasing a different turbo now.. i thought it better to just get one that will fulfill my needs in the future as well as now.. what do you think... thanks.. Eric

That's pretty good if you want to stay with that, just get a new one. The evo turbo is good for about 380 hp. and the big side mounts are good for a little bit above 400 hp, so that's a pretty good match.

If you do a good bit of street driving, I wouldn't go with the 272-272 option, go with a 264 intake, 272 exhaust. It will keep your idle like stock and you will still have good vacuum at idle. Also, you will retain more low rpm torque.

If you want to upgrade the turbo, you should check out forced performance. Maybe get the smallest ball bearing model. It will spool up a good bit faster than the evo and be more reliable so you won't fry that one too. You will pay a good amount more for it though.

thanks matt... keep it comin guys...

+1 with the cams. Hmatt basically took the words out of my mouth.

How about an 18G turbo?

Haha the b-astard 18g... fun turbo.

If you are looking to make 350, t3/t4 hybrid ball bearing is a good option.

If you wanna stick with mitsu turbos, i have a very good condition t28 i could sell you :grin:

your plan is like what i have done to my car.

yes the 272/272 is a good combo but it is not a very good combo for street use. it will be to idlely. 264/272 is better for street use and more better power is used for street use. and on top of that 272/272 is over kill.

the evo 3 16G turbo is a good and will proven. FP is a good company that make some the best turbos.

+1 18g. nice turbo

Yeah, I've been looking ad fp's 18g myself, but mainly been looking at thier DSM FP3052 Ball Bearing Turbocharger, and the infamous FP Green. Thinking of going more with the green.

Alas, They are all a bit overkill for me. I just want quick-spooling and some good bottom end power, does anybody know of a turbo that makes around 400 hp and spools faster than the evo III 16g? I've heard of the 16g killers, but i haven't really seen many of them that seem worth the price differnence.

SBR's baby kahuna, spools close to the same, slightly slower. kicks hard(non bolt on) http://www.slowboyracing.com/estore/produc...46&cat=0&page=1

or

bullseye power M-trim (bolt on)
http://www.slowboyracing.com/estore/produc...page=1&featured

H-matt I don't think with only front wheel drive you should be looking for bottom end power.

I understand that emc, but i didn't say i was going to put that in my GST now did i? I don't plan on making more than 300 or so in it's current configuration. I've been slowly collecting parts and info from swapmeets and online sellers, etc to do the gsx conversion.

PITA, yes, i know, but I am going to do it and it is still cheaper than buying a good 2g GSX, they want like 10K+ around here for them. So I am wither hoping to buy a totaled car that has the drivetrain in tact, or even one with a salvage title to use as a donor car. Then, i'm either going to rebuild my block with the 2.4 stroker kit, or get a 4g64 block and stroke it to 2.6.

I'm getting a BIG payday in the next month, so I will finally be able to buy the bike I want and use that as my DD so I can FINALLY take this thing off the road and do what i want with it. The wife will be pi$$ed, but whatever. It's not her money, she can deal with it or leave, which will give me more time and money to put into my car.

^^^^ a 2.6L in an dsm... hahaha i would love that. Just know you have to do some fab on the block of the 2.4 if you're gonna use the 4g63 head.

^ and then watch the cylinders crack

what would the advantage be of the 18g vs the big evoIII? what would I notice, now, and later??
and another question..( i know you get this all the time but) if i am a decent to good driver, what kind of times will the above set up produce... (the plans in my original post)

will that be capable of a 12.0 or so 1/4?

sorry guys, im just not familiar with these cars enough to know what power produces what times yet.... :thumbsup:

i now alot of guys run the 35gtr turbo. spools up nice and dont lag real bad.

Considering i have seen ppl hit 10.9 on a built motor with the 16g i guess you could hit 11's on the strip @ full boost on the 18g (assuming correct supporting mods).

now thats stupid having a build motor for a 16G lol

keeping in mind guys, i am not building the motor.. I am seriously considering if i am even going to do teh balance shaft kit or not.. . ..

this is what you are going to face if you are going to do the balance belt remove

Good:

* More HP to the wheels
* Zero chance the B-Belt will fail and kill the timing belt
* Zero chance the balance shaft bearings will fail and damage the rest of the motor
* More oil pressure to the rest of the motor

Bad:

* More vibration is felt in side the car (no more is made, just more is felt)
* Every car is different, some motors are more balanced than others. It is no worse that any other 2.0 liter car with out balance shafts

Ugly:

To install the kit, you will need to also remove the entire oil pump assy to gain access to the balance shafts. You need to knock out the balance shaft bearings and press in the new block off sleeves. To get the balance shafts out you need to remove the DP, oil pan, the transfer case and drop the motor down by removing two motor mounts and loosening the other two. Even if you are already doing a timing belt, there is still lots of additional work, but they do have instructions. You will also need the oil pump gasket and the oil filter housing gasket for your year vehicle. The oil pan goes on with silicone. It is a full weekend job laying under the car with oil dripping on your face for the average guy doing it at home with the motor in the car.

I agree, but still...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ioN8o1DbPJ8