Hello here guys, I have a 97 spyder GST and I took it to the mech because it was failing like hell, so the deal is that he found a couple of things, but my real question is that the engine was running at 10 psi, the mech told that that pressure wasnt the stock one, he told me that the stock one was like 6 psi, is that true? also, he told me that that I had gold under the hood because the car had a evo motor (4g63) the thing is that after repairing and cleaning I would like to take the car up to 15 psi, the only mod besides cleaning, sealing, contructing an exhaust and possibly a front mount intercooler, besides that the engine is stock, the engine will handle 15 psi safely? Or do I need more things for it or leave it at 10 psi, also will it work better if i use iridium spark plugs with it or platinum or regular ones? the car is intented for daily use, but if I have a Honda aside on a light, I want to kick hi a$$ :gunsmilie:

THIS IS MY BABY, PLEASE SAY SOMETHING ABOUT IT

i have a pretty stock engine and i'm running 17 psi

you will be perfectly fine with 15psi. your stock turbo won't handle a huge intercooler though so don't go crazy with a monster sized one.

it wouldn't hurt to upgrade your fuel pump to a 190lph, injectors to 550cc and add an air fuel controller like an AFC or something like that. They will help keep your engine safe

for spark plugs read here:http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/index.php?showtopic=9063&view=findpost&p=183787

Any DSM wth the 4g6* platform has a ****-ton of potential. Even when its stock. All of the gst's and gsx's had the 4g63 and can handle up to 25-30 lbs of boost on stock internals.

well, about the intercooler I was just thinking on one that at least covers the center hole of the stock bumper, is that enought? Or give me some measures to follow. About the fuel pump, inyectors and air fuel controller, are they really neede, I was just trying to find a balance between fuel economy and power, I thinked that 15 psi are ok with all the other things in stock, but if I cant turn it up to 15psi without modifying these then I will leave it with 10 then. About the spark plugs, I asked just because I tought that iridium were better, but if I will be putting 15 psi this is the way to go? BPR7ES is one step colder (14-20psi)
Question, if I decide to leave the psi at 10, do I have to use the stock ones or use the ones mentioned above? (BPR6ES)
Also I shouldnt then be thinking in iridium? It is just because here I was offered NGK iridium at 11 dollars each, I tought that iridium technology would work better... Also I was looking other pages of the forums and there are a different things to check like the hoses well placed and and the BCS, and my car is not virgin I bought it as a laboratory rat (at least all the mechs have told me something like that, that the car aint virgin no more) so I would like to know if I post pics of it here and you can tell me were goes something or whatever or just to see and check if everything is in place, thanks

that would be the best bet. detailed pics speak volumes

you can use a side mount intercooler from a supra. you won't need anything but to pull the restrictor out of your BCS (http://www.plymouthlaser.com/bcs.htm)if you want to run 10psi. Sometimes the 2g's get crazy though and boost spike without the restrictor so be careful and watch your boost.

if you want 15psi you need a boost controller. Also, if you don't want to upgrade your fuel do this, http://www.raktron.com/fuel/rewire1.html

so, I cannot use a front mount then? if I want 15 psi, I have a manual boost controller, the mech told me I needed a fuel regulator, no more, but my question is, does the fuel pump rewiring or buying another one is really that needed? I dont want to make too much mods to my car, just not yet because of the money, it is just that he told me that I could take it up to 15 without anything, just the controller and fuel pressure regulator, also about removing the BCS, i have to do that only if I leave it in 10 psi or for both psi's? And what to you mean by: Sometimes the 2g's get crazy though and boost spike without the restrictor, what do you mean by watching your boost? that I cant pull up too hard or what?

yes, you can use a front mount. just don't buy the biggest one you can find. stick with one that is 18" long 6" tall and 2.5-3" thick (not actual dimensions just numbers for reference)


yes, you can turn the boost up to 15 psi without doing anything else. if you do, leave the BCS hooked up and use the MBC to control the boost. the BCS works with the MAF sensor, knock sensor, and ECU to determine if your engine is knocking and needs to protect itself.

watch your boost with a boost gauge. I hope you have one or are going to get one because otherwise, how are you going to know how much boost you are running?

so you have a stock or high flow exhaust? sometimes on the 2g cars when you remove the restriction on the BCS and have a 3" turbo back exhaust the turbo will spool more quickly than the BCS was designed for and it take a little while for it to compensate with the wastegate action.

i was thinking on one that cover the center hole of the 99 bumper

what is knocking????

well, I think here is a problem, I have a boost gauge that is connected to the vaccum lines of the manifold, is it connected in a irregular way, because the other owner used the wiper cable that mist the front glass, that comes from the water container on the back to the front, he disconnected the system and used that cable to connect the gauge, the better way for this is to put a picture, so tomorrow I will, put the picture, the gauge does give the readings, the car is at 10psi and that it shows so, I think he did it eliminate the need of drilling throught the firewall, lets se tomorow

The last thing you said after the exhaust is good or bad, because I will be putting a custom one but I dont know which width (2 1/2", 3", etc) so If you were to recommend me, which one do you choose?

Thanks in advance

iridiums are not nessecary.they are really expensive and do not really work much better.i use ngk u groove plugs.I run 10 to 12 psi on my 420a and its very reliable,good fuel economy and it will burn rubber when i want.

that's a good size intercooler.

knock = predetonation wiki

the pic will help. he's dumb for using those rubber hoses. good vacuum hose is only like 15-50 cents a foot at an auto parts store.

go with the 3" exhaust. you won't regret it, especially if you decide to upgrade the turbo later

Well here I got some pictures, they are from a cellphone so sorry for the low details, but as you can see in them the large orange vaccum line goes to the firewall to the manifold as you can see, also, that sensor pictured in the last one, I think is the cam angle sensor, how do I know if it is working properly? I remember unplugint it before and see a diference in the motor idling, and I have that now, thats why I say that my engine is failing, if I unplug it and plug it back it doesnt do anything, I think it is damaged, can someone please tell me something about it'? And about the predetonation, how do I avoid it? By not removing the restrictor in the BCS?

OMG thats a mess!!!!!

first thing you need to do is re-run that vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator. it's that thing at the end of the fuel rail and the ONLY place a vacuum line on this thing should go is...from the manifold, to the solenoid that is located on the firewall very near the regulator, then back to the regulator. do that now, it should fix most of the problem.

after you do that we will address the other issues like the BOV venting to atmosphere and stuff like that

whoever modded your car should be slapped

You mean connect both cables that goes to the boost gauge and plug them here? is the only one disconnected... Also which cable should go where? Is there an IN/OUT hole, etc?

Also in the other picture you will see that the blow off is connected throught the black hose to a hole in the manifold just aside of the map sensor, is this well placed?
My car will take place #1 on WARD'S 10 worst modified engines, LOL :wacko:
And please tell me about the freaking cam angle sensor mentioned above... Thanks