Hi guys, new to the forums.

I just bought a 1997 Mitsubishi GSX, 2.0 DOHC Turbo AWD, with a 6bolt swap (1G) and i noticed i'm missing 2 transmission bolts that mount it to the engine. I have looked around online, parts stores and haven't came up with anything. Is this something i would have to get from the dealer? Also if anyone has any laying around, i will buy them from ya! When i go to shift, i have to slam the pedal to the floor hard, in order to be able to get the car in gear, just replaced the cluth slave cylinder, was leaking. Now i think those transmission bolts will take care of the clutch problem. It goes down, then there is a binding point, once you pass that, no problem getting in and out of gear.

I'm not too well educated with Mitsubishi yet, bought a car that needs a lot of work, the idle also goes up down up down once it gets warmed up... i think it's a vacuum leak somewhere, but i can't pin-point it. The car also dies if you disengage the clutch too soon, when coming to a stop.


Sorry about long post, i have a ton of questions!

Thank You,
Eddie
Monticello,MN

take a bolt off n go to the hardware store and get it there. and for the shiftin part there should be a lil box thing that might not be bolted up or u may just need to adjust ur cables. but for ut idle and dyin idk for that

Well, have you been in another 4g63t powered vehicle? They all have a little ruff idle. But it is also possible that the previous owner could have pulled out the side honeycombs in the MAF too.

I have already replaced the shift cable(s), clutch slave cylinder, and it seems to work now, only if i slam the pedal to the floor. I think it's caused by binding from the seperation of the transmission and the engine, i'm hoping putting all the bolts in will help.

The idle isn't really rough, it bounces from 1000rpm's to 2500rpms, constantly, up and down, up and down. Doesn't happen until about 1-2 minutes idling, once something warms up.

I finally bought a new valve cover, powder coated blue, with red lettering, came with all new gaskets for $50.00, the gaskets alone at a parts store ran me over $35.00. If anyone has extra upper and lower timing covers, please let me know; i will purchase them from you. It's a 97 GSX, with a 6bolt swap.

Thanks for your time, i will keep you updated on the progress.
Eddie
Monticello, MN

Bouncing like is probably your IAC going out. That's what mine did anyway. But you can google it and they will give you instructions on how to test it, you'll only need a multimeter. That's the first thing I would check and it's pretty easy to get to.

And where did you get a powdercoated valve cover for that cheap?

It was a listing on Craigslist, there are a ton of good deals around my area for them.
Valve Cover: http://www.eliptex.net/car/newvalvecover.jpg

I just bought the car, and really know nothing about it yet, except the guy i bought it from did a hackjob just to get rid of it. Nothing but problems since i got it home.

IAC, i think that's what my friend was playing with. It sits right behind the throttle position sensor right? (The brass looking item in the pic below, with the tab on it?)

Well this is a 1st gen engine, and i think it was a 2nd gen throttle body, not exactly sure, i know they are different (according to what i was told when i bought it). I will take a picture of it, i seem to have a lot of open vaccuum ports on the throttle body / intake.
Here is the pic of engine: http://www.eliptex.net/car/DSCF0930.JPG

There is a ground tab on it (IAC), or some kind of hookup (not sure, as there are no wires going to it) .. well he pulled it out and there was no change in the idle. Maybe i should buy a new one and stick it in there, and see if that helps. Right now it's 3am and i am extremly tired and probably of no use anyway.

If you need to know anything else, or want to see more pictures let me know.

Thanks,
Eddie

The guy i bought it from made this list for me:

MODS:
6 Bolt Engine Swap
ARP Head Studs
2g Throttle Elbow
Injen Intake
16g Turbo
ACT 2600/2700 Clutch and Flywheel
Custom Downpipe
Front Mount Intercooler
Hard Piping
Turbo XS Blowoff Valve
Tokico Blue Suspension
18x8 Rims + Tires
Short Shifter
Autometer Boost, Water Temp, Oil PSI
Pillar Pod
Rear Strut Brace
Balance Shaft Eliminator
Hard Wired Fuel Pump
97 TSI MAF Sensor
gReddy Turbo Timer

----------
NEW PARTS
----------

Timing Belt
Alt. Belt
Alternator
All Engine Gaskets: Head, Exhaust, Intake, Oil Pan, Oil Pump, Water Pump
Tensioner Pullies
Water Pump
Water Temp Sensor
TPI + ICM
Short Block with 60,000 Miles
Oil + Filter
Newer Brakes

I don't know if this will help with anything, it's word for word what was written on a sheet of paper.

You do realize this is absolutely TERRIBLE for your car. I was in the same boat a while back. If your engine and tranny are separating, don't drive it! Its only gonna get worse and put more stress on your clutch.

I am not driving it, it's actually been sitting for 2 months. After i replaced the slave cylinder and shift cable, i took it around the block.

OK, I don't know if anyone has caught this yet, but he's running the stock MAF, and not re-circulating the Blow off valve, (you can see it in the pic) and he doesn't have any fuel management or boost control.

And, is the ENTIRE engine a 6-bolt? or just the block?

The whole engine i would assume. No there is no fuel management or boost control on it. When you say not recirculating the blowoff valve, what do you mean?

If you need more pictures, let me know.

Its good that you're not driving it w/o those bolts. Every time you push the clutch when the engine is running you about half the life of your clutch (or more) like this.

Ok, recirc. hose on the BOV. First of all, are you running the flexible stock intake or a harder aftermarket one? If you are running stock, get some rubber hose and literally connect it to the opening of your BOV to the blocked off passage in the intake.

If you are running an aftermarket intake with no recirculation hose... get one with a recirc hose :P

How would that help the idle? I guess i don't understand what the point of recirculating it is, just means my car is going to run rich for 1-2 seconds while it's expelling? Not sure.. i'm more worried about fixing the idle problem or vacuum leak.

Yea the BOV won't make your idle weird, but still, your car was meant to run with it attached and will run better when it is.

The only thing you can do about the vacuum or boost leak is to check all you vac lines and IC lines for leaks.

There is a rubber hose coming off the left side of the BOV if you look, the car is 3 miles away in a garage, not sure where it is leading to. So you're saying take that hose and route it to the intake? Or stick a hose in the BOV and do it? I'm a newbie with turbo vehicles, especially a mistu. Sorry :(

Eddie

Its cool. Here is a pic of a recirculated BOV : http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment...1g-uicp_bov.jpg

Here is a pic of a "venting BOV" :
http://180sx.locost7.info/images/bov.jpg

Even though these are two different BOV's you can notice the approx 1.5" rubber hose going to the intake from the bov in the first pic. This is the correct set up. Its not completely necessary to do this but it will make your car run a lot better.